Steve DH Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 I would like to thank Roger H & Ian C for your advice on an earlier topic - Suspension overhaul, much appreciated and I have gone out for prices based on your comments. I am now looking at the breaking system replacement. The only part I was not going to replace was the rear drums, everything else replace. I have read a bit on the green stuff and seems to be better option as I will have chrome wheels, but I see on the Rimmers web site 4 x front disk options, from Standard, TRW, EBC and Rossini high performance, cross drilled and grooved, as always the price range is significant so would appreciate any advice before I choose. Thanks in advance, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Hi Steve, do not put your choice in brake pads on the use of chrome wires. They will get dirty no matter which pads you use. So go for the best that suits your application. If you are running your car in a normal road fashion then why not start off with standard discs and pads - inexpensive and something to compare when upgrading. These will work very well. You could then consider better pads - Green Stuff have their followers. I used them and was happy until I came across some that just didn't work. Ferodo FER167 work fine. A little more grippy than the standard. I use these http://www.burtonpower.com/ds-perf-pads-f-mk2-esc-capri-cort-gran-m16-caliper-fer167.html Others highly recommend Mintex 1144 Why are you not changing the rear drums - they wear out also. Have you sorted out the brake slave cylinders at the rear. New cylinders or new seals??? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) The standard braking system on the TRs in good condition is quite capable of performing to requirements and will certainly allow you to use the car in todays traffic without drama. The multiple brake caliper systems with vented discs, cross drilled discs, slotted discs and other variations are not normally required for road use, you may of course decide that is the way you wish to go but from your comment about the costs involved fitting anything other than standard equipment will increase the costs markedly. You may even find that your car doesn't have a brake servo device fitted in which case you'll find the braking performance is unaffected (when racing many drivers don't use them (too easy to overbrake). But if you wish to reduce the brake pedal effort and make the application easier on the leg there are Brake servo kits offered by the TR specialists suppliers which can be bought and fitted which will reduce the effort. Be careful when choosing the brake disc pad material, there as many different opinions available as makes. But remember that choosing disc pad material which allows you to have a track day driving the car to it's limits with very high speeds and multiple hard brake applications, is unlikely to give the best "from cold" performance when leaving your house. When a Morris Minor on drum brakes in front jumps on his feeble brakes and your heart jumps into your mouth because your competition pads and discs are cold and won't yet work until a couple of miles of extra applications bring them up to temperature. Mick Richards Edited February 4, 2018 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Steve, Mick above knows what he is talking about. Most of the mods you refer to are bling. If you want to improve the braking system, the best modification is to fit twin master cylinders. The standard setup has but a single master cylinder and brake line. Lose one, you lose them all. The twin cylinder setup isolates the front and rear brakes. The setup I have (TR Enterprises though Revington and others do them) leave the brakes feeling standard but you get peace of mind! AlanR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 The twin cylinder setup isolates the front and rear brakes. Dual brake cylinders.jpg AlanR. Hi Alan, I always thought they were separated diagonally; but you are spot on - split front and rear Shown here in the Moss WebCat https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-hoses-tr5-6.html Something new each day. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) Hi Alan, I always thought they were separated diagonally; but you are spot on - split front and rear Shown here in the Moss WebCat https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-hoses-tr5-6.html Something new each day. Roger Roger, That detail is for TR5/TR6 setup and they ARE split front to rear. You can achieve the same on a TR4 if you adopt the complete TR6 setup with reservoir, bracket etc. AlanR Edited February 4, 2018 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 I have been thinking about fitting a dual MC on my Tr4a, and I was looking at the kit on the Revington TR site. http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4409lak/name/dual-circuit-brakes-tr4a-lhd One of the things they mention is there is an increase in pedal effort, and they also offer a special servo kit for it. http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4118-4alk/name/kit-dual-servo-tr4a-lhd AlanR, how significant was the pedal effort increase in your dual MC installation? Thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) Jim, Have to honest - so long that the car was off the road before restoration that I really can't recall how it was before. But - general thinking is - the small bore cylinders give the same braking effort as standard. That's how the diameters are derived and it certainly seems that way to me - braking effort is not heavy (for a 55 year old classic!). I think it was the non-availability of small bore cylinders that prevented this mod coming to the market much earlier. Certainly don't need a servo. AlanR Edited February 4, 2018 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Thanks Alan. What concerned me was Revington Included this in the kit description: “Neil Revington says: - I have used these kits on my TR2 and on the TR4 rally car since the middle 1990 s and they are very effective BUT you do have to press hard” But maybe they were using larger bore MCs then. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve DH Posted February 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Gents, Many thanks for your comments and suggestions, very interesting and you guys do know your stuff!!! This is my first ever attempt at a restoration and coupled with the fact I work overseas so I am coordinating the restoration work, choosing and ordering the parts remotely, so sometimes I will have to opt for the easier and most practical solution as my target is to have the car completed in May. So I think I will go for the standard complete overhaul kit for now and as advised by Roger I can upgrade later when I have more time to research and make the best choice for my needs. Thanks again, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) Thanks Alan. What concerned me was Revington Included this in the kit description: “Neil Revington says: - I have used these kits on my TR2 and on the TR4 rally car since the middle 1990 s and they are very effective BUT you do have to press hard” But maybe they were using larger bore MCs then. Jim Having looked at various kits for this application I have found the Racetorations one is much better finished than the Revingtons one. Fitted one last year to a French TR without a servo (Dont forget you would need either two single line servos or a very expensive dual version) and he is very happy.with it.He also hasnt complained about heavy pedal. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr4-c6/tr4-brakes-c33/racetorations-dual-brake-master-cylinder-kit-p362 Stuart. Edited February 5, 2018 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Ask the supplier what diameter (d) master cylinders are used in the kit. From this, compute the combined area of the 2 master cylinders (2 x pi x d x d /4). Compare this with the area of the existing master cylinder (pi x d x d /4). If the area for the twin set-up exceeds that of the existing, one would have to push harder to achieve the same braking effect unless the kit allows greater leverage to be achieved between one's foot and the cylinders. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Stuart, Ian, thanks for the information! Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilipB Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 I have been thinking about fitting a dual MC on my Tr4a, and I was looking at the kit on the Revington TR site. http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4409lak/name/dual-circuit-brakes-tr4a-lhd One of the things they mention is there is an increase in pedal effort, and they also offer a special servo kit for it. http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4118-4alk/name/kit-dual-servo-tr4a-lhd AlanR, how significant was the pedal effort increase in your dual MC installation? Thanks Jim OGB has the Revington split system with Mintex 1144 pads on grooved discs, no servo. The brake pedal is "firm" without much travel but we're all used to moderns with servos and a progressive brake pedal, it's not a problem really. The system works very well, even from cold, and I can vouch for a split system for when the front brakes get cooked . . . Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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