3-D printing TR2 beading correctly

[2long]

I don't think the beading on even the earliest TR2s was ever cloth or cotton covered - I am pretty confident it was always a rubber/plastic.

 

Dan

[roger murray-evans]

Oh well, that's sunk that idea.

Back to doing the job properly!

 

Roger M-E

[RogerH]

Hi Dan,

when I was investigating this issue for you a couple of years ago I'm sure somebody like Bill Piggott said the very earliest one were cloth covered.

But I have no facts to back that up.

 

Roger

[2long]

Hi Roger - yes, that is only my opinion on the beading. Piggott's 2-3-3A book does say there were different varieties, but not specifically an early type and a later type. He also acknowledges that there is scant information. As you know the nos roll I offered to share with SDF was the same material and profile as on my long door, but in that odd light grey color. I have never seen any cloth or cotton colored versions as known originals, but who knows.

 

Dan

Edited March 7, 2018 by 2long

[John McCormack]

Hi Dirk,

I understand that Baines in Tunbridge UK made the original and can still make them. But the quantity may be an issue.

 

I may have this wrong but the earliest beading was cotton covered.

Then it went to colour coordinated rubber/plastic.

And now it is Stainless steel.

 

ADDRESS

COH Baines Ltd

Unit 3

Buckingham House

Longfield Road

Tunbridge Wells

Kent

TN2 3EY

United Kingdom

TELEPHONE

Phone: 01892 543311

Roger

Does anybody know when the beading changed. My car is TS3732O and I would like to have the correct beading if I can do it.

[irrational]

My friend has TS3973 and he has a tiny bit of original beading which is the colour coded half-circle plastic.

The photos I have seen, although not in high closeup, of unrestored TS2797LO also seems to have the flattened circle plastic beading.

 

Dirk

[stuart]

Does anybody know when the beading changed. My car is TS3732O and I would like to have the correct beading if I can do it.

Quite likely after the first thousand as there were a lot of changes at that point.

Stuart.

[roger murray-evans]

Well I'm now not quite so convinced that 'piping' wasn't used early on!

Looking around the web for photos of early TR2s I've come across

doretti.co.uk under which there is a sub-page Terry Moore.Said beauty

is posing, close-up, in a long door TR2 and shows what does not appear to be

T section piping.In fact, to my newly, heavily biased opinion , I believe the

section showing the wing/scuttle joint to have round piping?

I've still not mastered where WIN10 hides all the images I download, so I can't

enlarge the area under question in order to convince myself completely.

Could someone have a look and comment please?

 

Roger M-E

[roger murray-evans]

Hopefully picture now attached.In fact the rear piping is a more

convincing argument.

Picture is Dec 1953, door is for an early TR2 with just the 3 Tenax

studs.

 

Roger M-E

[irrational]

Very interesting.

I agree that it looks rounded/raised.

On inspection it seems to be the case for MVC575 as well from the period photos..

 

Dirk

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

...and another option....

Paul Beck Trim Supplies - Vintage Car Parts in Norfolk.

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/search?query=Wing+Piping

[irrational]

Half-round plastic!

The 693 range looks perfect! I just have to measure the width but I think 6mm would be a perfect match and the 21mm height is good to work with and easy to make cutouts for the bolts.

One can also easily shape the ends as needed since its plastic with paint covering any unevenness.

Even if the profile beneath the "bead" is not exact, I think that is certainly close enough to work and much closer to correct than the metal TR3 option.

 

Thanks for that find.

 

Dirk

[stuart]

Only problem with the plastic beading you will find is when you tighten up the wing bolts it will squeeze up in a hump for each bolt position.

Stuart.

[irrational]

I have heard this could be an issue, but won't cutting a space for the bolt solve the problem?

 

I have also emailed them and asked about paint and colour. They said that they wouldn't recommend painting the plastic.

I agree that this is probably not the greatest idea long term.

Does anyone have any ideas about painting?

I think I'll continue checking around in any case while thinking about a solution.

 

Dirk

[RogerH]

Hi Dirk,

when you emailed them to ask about painting did you ask them about producing it in various colours?

 

Roger

[stuart]

You can paint it if you prep it properly so it would need all the release agent from the moulding process removing with a specific de greaser then careful keying with very fine scotchbrite and then priming with a specific plastic primer and then colour coating with just enough paint to cover with a plasticiser additive in the paint.

As to cutting out where the bolts go stopping it squeezing up when tightening no it often doesnt!

Stuart.

[irrational]

I have asked.

But they said they only provide the black, white and silver.

They do not recommend painting as they can not guarantee the outcome, but I am sure it should be possible to paint it reasonably well.

My current piping is painted and of course has some cracks, but piping is fairly cheap and easy to replace I'd think.

 

I think it is cheap enough to try and see. I'll still talk to the 3-D printing guys in April some time to see what the options are. I have not really made work of finding local solutions.

Dirk