Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Cars Owned:
    1955 Triumph TR2
    1980 Porsche 911 SC
    2006 Maserati Gransport Spyder
    2007 BMW F650GS

    1972 BMW 3.0S
    1974 Volvo 164E
    2014 BMW R NineT
    and some less interesting cars. Always at least 15 years old!

Recent Profile Visitors

359 profile views
  1. Here is a closeup of my TR2's original green paint from 1955. The paint sample at the start seems close to the TR4A green which is more bluish. It looks fairly close to the TR3A model and the Stag. Dirk
  2. Hi. I have been using my TR2 almost daily for a while. It is wonderful to enjoy, but the steering box has started to annoy me and it is time to fix that issue (Along with a carburettor rebuild). After some research here and elsewhere I have decided to go for the Revington spring loaded top plate. But with a rebuild I am also going to replace the worm and everything else that need to be done. What I can't seem to find are all the bits needed to refurbish the box. There does not seem to be a "rebuild kit" as such. The top plate and worm are key, but I believe there are all sorts of shims, seals, pegs and such that need to be done. Is it ok to try and replace the worm or is it advisable to rather get a complete steering arm? Has anybody done this and can give me a list of what I should replace and look at? Also where is the best to source? I am not always convinced that Moss' items are the best and some items prices vary considerably, for instance the worm. I have gotten good service form The Roadster Factory before. Dirk
  3. When I reconditioned my TR2 O/D the mechanic added EP90. After not getting it working I drained the EP, unblocked the valves and filled up with SAE40 (Castrol) as per original manuals. All working perfectly without issues now. Just stick with a good SAE40 without weird additives and make sure your levels are correct. These specs: SAE 40 API SF/CD Good luck and happy TR-ing! Note: I am in SA where the temperatures are much higher average, so you could go for SAE30 in colder climates Dirk
  4. Here is a link to the entire scanned booklet. Its about a 14MB download as its high quality pdf. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PIcIH_Su0McI1hWBsqzA3K8HL7kkPJxS/view?usp=sharing Dirk
  5. I'll happily scan the whole booklet. I think that this booklet might be specific to South Africa, but I'll do some more research to try and find out. I think both the UK and South Africa changed to metric only in the 1960s, so the inclusion of the metric measurements are interesting to me. Dirk
  6. I was given this amazing booklet by my club registrar today. Apologies for the many photos, but I found it interesting. It is a 1953 booklet about Standard and Triumph specifications that his dad was given in 1953, showing such for all current models in 1953 (Renown, Mayflower, Vanguard, Delivery Van and Pickup Truck) The TR2 is referenced as "Triumph Sports Car". Nothing about TR2. I think perhaps pre-production as it lists the power as 80bhp and not 90 and it has a stamped date 5 March 1953, while TS1 was made in July 1953. In any case. I think it may be quite a rare item and it has some interesting info, like that the carpets had a felt under layer. Unfortunately a mouse ate a crescent, but luckily not enough to damage the text! I also find it very interesting that measurements are given in both metric and imperial.
  7. irrational

    New MOT

    Congratulations Roger! The TR looks great. It almost makes me want to keep mine in its state. If it still was its original colour I might have. My TR2 also passed it equivalent recently to get a valid road license. This only has to happen once when changing ownership here, not annually. It doesn't looks quite as used though! What was hilarious is that the tester was so starstruck about the car the he forgot to check the horn, wipers or instruments! He never even asked about the lack of seatbelts. I had to explain the dipswitch, handbrake, starter and switches as well. All good fun. Driving only the TR2 this weekend in spiritual acknowledgement of the Goodwood Revival, I realise just how incredibly usable they are every day. In fact, if I didn't hate traffic so much and used a motorcycle, I would definitely use it daily. Dirk
  8. Hi all. I was wondering if you have taken your unmodified cars onto track days and what regulatory issues there were. I was vaguely wondering about one day taking my TR to europe for some trips and maybe doing laps on some famous tracks. Nurburgring maybe? 8) Le Mans is just public for a large part so that's fine. The problem is that I would prefer to keep my car original while doing so and that means no rollover hoop and no seatbelts! Now I know some people would say it is irresponsible, but a track is generally a safer place to drive than normal roads. I was wondering if regulations would even allow you to drive without seatbelts. The TR2 is not exactly a safe cage by modern standards. But also one wouldn't drive a TR2 as if in a race. dirk
  9. Just a silly question. When one fixes something you are likely to be overly sensitive to that specific issue. So with that in mind....Can it be the tyres? Pressure or pattern?
  10. Thanks for all the info. I will archive it for now. I am tired not enjoying my TR, so I will drive it without OD for a few months before I start on a body restoration. At that time I will spend effort on the OD again and try to find someone where I can assist or even do it myself. I already missed several great summer runs due to this and I am not planning on missing out more. It has made me quite upset for too long. Dirk
  11. Hi again. After some further checking (and I realise this might be stupid, but I don't know better), I was wondering about the oil the guy is using. In any case I am taking my car back and will drive it without an O/D for the time being, but it is bothering me greatly. I have checked the very significant amount of older posts about the oil, but none answers my specific query. Everything I check says the TR2 gearbox should use SAE40 oil (warmer here in SA, so not SAE30 as in the UK), but the guy is using EP90 (which surely is a heavy diff oil?). The existing posts indicate that EP90 should be ok when warm, but a little sluggish when cold. I am really struggling to understand the viscosity tables to be able to compare how big the difference is between these oils in terms of flow rate at temperature. So in a nutshell. Is EP90 so much thicker thatn SAE40 that it would cause a significantly slower release of the overdrive due to the oil struggling to drain through the operating valve hole? The other posts seem to indicate this could be so when cold and I know the OD gets very hot indeed after some time. I see oil viscosity charts have a mm(squared) / second rate, but this seems to be higher for higher values, where I would expect higher for lower values, assuming this means flow rate? Can anyone explain? Dirk
  12. At least I know that my gearbox is also matching my car, so it is a complete matching numbers car. TS 5379-O with TS 5822E and TS 5827 gearbox. Out of curiosity though, I am not sure if the Overdrive unit is the opriginal TR2 one, or a replacement from a Vanguard? This question is based on something I read about a cover plate on the solenoid side. Anyone know more about this? Dirk
  13. It is currently still not operational. I was hoping the operating valve clean would have solved it, but perhaps there is something in the unit that keeps blocking the hole. I have had a look at those videos and they have really been useful in helping me understand how the overdrive works! I am going to take the gearbox to a general gearbox specialist where I told them I'll keep an eye. They have the tools and the time to go through everything and check it as my current mechanic does not seem able to spend the solid time required to re-strip the overdrive unit, clean it out and reassemble with care. I do not have the tools or space to do so myself or I would have. If the timing wasn't so bad I would have stripped the car for restoration while this is going on, but I have already lost 6 months of use of my TR for nothing and I need to restore my Porsche first. Dirk
  14. I so wish I could make use of that, unfortunately being stuck in South Africa (even though I have a valid visa) means I can't. I'll plan for 2020. My first visit in 2006 was amazing and I really need to go again. I see on the entry lists that there are several Triumph running, including a tr2. Dirk
  15. I still do not have a working OD so now I am going to continue to grasping at straws! Roger, what is the "rigging lever"? My mechanic, given this info, tried the different seal sections as you suggested. I just don't know what his lever is and where it is. Current situation after I watched while some work was being done on a bench. So any further ideas would be most welcome. I am going to try and oversee this personally. I wish there were more people that could work on this overdrive. The overdrive seems to engage correctly. When we start up , the pressure rises to about 350psi very fast, which is right for a Type A (OD in top only with a pull button) as far as I know. When we disengage the OD, the pressure drops to 300 psi immediately and then just stays there. Even operating the lever manually a few times does not really resolve this and we have to wait a VERY long time, or release it slowly by opening the operating valve nut. 1: We cleared the little hole in the operating valve (It was blocked). 2: We added a new ball as the old one wasn't sealing properly and made sure it sealed both the valve and the opening in the shaft. 3: we measured and double checked the valve's length and the ball size, both correct. 4: The valve's up and down movement looks correct operating the lever manually. 5: We double checked the setting of the lever shaft? (Where the solonoid piston goes up and down)and saw the shaft was a little worn, so that the lever did not "grab" it fully causing faulty adjustment. We filed a bit of metal away so that the "beak" could now grip the spindle properly when the screw was tightened. Now it looks correct when operating in that it clicks up and down with electricity promptly. Any further ideas where something could be maladjusted or blocked? The gearbox guy I asked said there is a welsh plug of source in the case that may also be blocked? In any case. The problem seems clear that the pressure isn't dropping. Perhaps there is something that keeps blocking the operating valve again? Are there some other small channels that I have to look at where a blockage may occur? A drain or filter of some sort? A last question (For testing on a bench, disconnected from an engine or rotating device.). If the OD is engaged and I put the gearbox into reverse, the drive shaft should not be able to rotate at all, right? I just want to be able to make sure that the OD is really engaged. Dirk
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.