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Alec Pringle

Unusual item - Girling brake restrictor on the 'bay

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Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . .

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

Useful if you really want 100% originality !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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This is the device which can cause problems by maintaining too high a pressure to the (front) disc brakes - I know, I had it happen in the mid-1960s and the discs can get VERY hot.

Most of us recommend stripping the device and chucking the innards into the dustbin, then putting the empty body back in place so as not to have to obtain a longer length of bundy tubing to bridge the gap.

 

Ian Cornish

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Hi Ian,

 

I couldn't agree more, skip fodder, and Roger sussed my cynical tone . . . . . but there are folks around who value these touches of originality, even when the damn things are unseen.

 

A few years back now, I came across one in a local motor factor's clearance bin for a couple of quid, and stuck it on the 'bay, started at a fiver and a brace of our transatlantic friends fought a duel up to nearly £70 for the damn thing . . . . . amazing.

 

Ludicrous over-enthusiasm, I felt obliged to include a full set of nos Girling cylinder seals foc, seemed only reasonable as I had lots of them surplus !

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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I actually have an invoice from a Standard Triumph dealer, in Brighton, charging me for the removal of the innards. This was some time ago.

 

Richard & h.

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Removal of innards is very simple if one has a vice (no ... not that one! ) and a wrench (note - I said wrench).

Ian Cornish

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IF, this thingy is what I think it is, a RPV

 

then why, doo all modern cars ev em fitted as standard

 

And, if Ian was saying, it stuck the brakes on,

was it plumbed in right

 

as there 2 different pressures for different brakes

 

me self, the one I got fitted { 4 wheel discs an 2 PSI } worked wonders for pedal travel

and could actually go down a size in MC to get moer pressure for less leg force

 

IF it aint a PRV, then some wise Sage pray tell just wot it is

 

 

 

M

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GT6M - the restrictor failed on my TR2 (which had disc front brakes) after some 10 years. I imagine that the device had worn out or disintegrated internally.

In order to reduce kick-back of the disc pistons, a better solution is to beef-up the stub axle, and there's a number of solutions already available from the well-known suppliers for this.

Ian Cornish

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IF, this thingy is what I think it is, a RPV

 

then why, doo all modern cars ev em fitted as standard

 

And, if Ian was saying, it stuck the brakes on,

was it plumbed in right

 

as there 2 different pressures for different brakes

 

me self, the one I got fitted { 4 wheel discs an 2 PSI } worked wonders for pedal travel

and could actually go down a size in MC to get moer pressure for less leg force

 

IF it aint a PRV, then some wise Sage pray tell just wot it is

 

 

 

M

GT6M

Yes the item being discussed is a brake residual pressure maintaining valve or RPV

 

Problem we have is that the original Girling item has a tendency to fail/stick causing the discs to lock on, this may also be because the factory set maintaining pressure is too high. I have had this issue, and resolved it by removing the valve....with the subsequent reappearance of a 'long' brake pedal after cornering. - as you mention, removal of pad knock back and long pedal means the possibility of dropping the mc diameter, thus improving brake pressure for given pedal afford.... and perhaps not needing a servo. Sideways discussed this a while back.

 

A reliable 2 psi item would certainly be worth fitting/testing in a TR - I note the USA Wilwood offered item is with adaptors that should suit our SAE threaded brake pipes. Demon Tweaks do not offer this option as far as I can see. Racetorations sell a complete kit of two valves with all adaptors for TR etc.

 

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-13783

 

In the UK with metric threads

https://www.tmrsupplies.co.uk/products/brake-residual-pressure-valve-2psi-for-disc-brakes/

 

On reading, the USA seller's suggestion is that 2psi should go in the disc brake line and 10 psi in the drum brake line. Also issues about height of mc compared the callipers/slave cyls.

 

Therefore.....

Solid axle TR3-4 cars - Replace the existing valve which is in the inlet to the 5 or 4 way union under the bonnet on the RH chassis leg fed from the mc with a 2psi item. (bit of fun with threaded connectors here) Then fit the removed original item to between the 3 way union and the flex hose on the rear axle. Screws straight in.

Additional valves in series do not have an accumulative affect so don't panic.

 

Possibility of fitting the original valve the wrong way round - The original valve is error proofed in its design so cannot be fitted the wrong way round if installed where originally positioned using OE hardware. (NB not 'fool proofed' as no fool would own a TR)

 

Peter W

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Hi

Back last year I finally traced the problem of the n/s front brake sticking,locking up on hard braking and running hot to be this particular valve, we simply took it apart cleaned out the c--p from the inside,cleaned the ball and spring and put it back together its been fine ever since with no pedal length problems at all..

 

Cheers Phil..

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