TomMull Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 The bearings (baskets) on my stator tube are not fixed to the tube. They slide up and down on the tube and spin around. Is that normal? It looks as though there are a couple of bumps or burs on the tube that might have kept them from moving up and down on the tube at one time but nothing I see that would keep them from spinning. It also looks like they might help in preventing the tube itself from spinning if they were fixed but perhaps that job is done solely by the compression fitting on the bottom end. Any thoughts? Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 These baskets are only there to prevent flexing of the stator tube inside the steering 'tube'. Sliding up and down isn't preferable: let's say both 'baskets' are at the lower end, the tube can and will flex. Perhaps it's an idea to prevent them from sliding by attaching a small tie wrap under the baskets. Very tight. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted October 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Thanks, Menno. Not much room there. Perhaps a bit of solder or epoxy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 As you say there are some "bumps" on the tube which are there to locate the springy bearings. perhaps yours have worn down a bit. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted October 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 As you say there are some "bumps" on the tube which are there to locate the springy bearings. perhaps yours have worn down a bit. Bob. Bob, The bumps appear to have discouraged the bearings from moving up and down along the tube, at least when they were newer, but allowed them to spin in place. So do they need to spin or should they be solidly fixed to the tube? Menno's ties would still allow spinning but solder or epoxy would hold them solidly. Will I get into trouble if they don't move at all? Tom Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Or tacking a small 'blob' with a welder on the tube, not on the baskets. You can grind down the blob until the point where it's not all smooth again, leaving a small barrier (so to speak) for the baskets so that they cannot slide down but still can move freely. When you grind it down too far, you can reweld a start again. Until you're happy with the result. M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Once you have pushed the stator tube into the column the springs are squeezed onto it & then will not move up or down on tube. It does not matter if they rotate. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 I always assumed that the Chinese lanterns were just anti-rattle devices. When Mark Macy was providing repro tubes he just added some thick foam sleeve where the original contraptions were located. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 The stator tube doesnt move once in place or at least it shouldnt as its held by the olive and nut at the steering box end, as long as you have the springs at decent intervals then a bit of epoxy just to stop them rattling downwards (They wont rattle up) is all you need. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Once you have pushed the stator tube into the column the springs are squeezed onto it & then will not move up or down on tube. It does not matter if they rotate. Bob. Thanks Bob and all. Since the column rotates and the tube doesn't, something needs to move. I guess the obvious (after some thought and the suggestions above) would be the baskets spinning on the tube. So it does not look like they can be fixed to it. Keeping them in place along the tube, as the original burs once did, is all that seems proper. Perhaps this was obvious to all at the beginning, except me. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 The last of Mark Macy's stator tubes a couple of years ago (when the original Geppetto who made them retired) had about 1 1/2-inches of heat shrink insulation on the tube to make a bulge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 How far apart should the 'springs' be? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 The first piece of heat shrink on Macy's part, measured from the end of the tube without the notch: The second piece of heat shrink, again measured from the end without the notch: The overall length, showing the notch: Note the tubing diameter, material of construction, and wall thickness here: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thank you Don ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 There are very good instructions on how to make a stator tube here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108693-Recipe-for-a-TR2/page5 Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 There are very good instructions on how to make a stator tube here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?108693-Recipe-for-a-TR2/page5 Charlie D Thanks for pointing that out Charlie. I am familiar with John's documentation of the rebuild of his TR2 but I missed that section. Johns work, as well as the documentation, is as good s it gets. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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