graeme Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Finally making some progress with the TR250 rebuild. The chassis is back from the powder coaters and now being reassembled. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 And power steering.......................looks very nice Graeme! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Hi Graeme Fabulous.. I see that you have got the power steering. I have this on my 6 and on the 5 that I'm re-building. You may have already taken account of this, but when you get round to fitting the engine. The gap between the front pulley and the power steering body, is oh, so very close.. I had to move the engine/ gearbox back a bit to provide a bigger gap and insert some spacers on the engine mounts. Otherwise, as on my 6, I found after a while and when the engine bay gets warm, the engine would move forward slightly and the pulley would rub up against the power steering body especially when braking. I also took the precaution of fitting a spare fan belt on the engine side by wrapping it in a cycle inner tube and fixing it with tie wraps around the timing cover, so that in the event of a fan belt failure you can easily change. I hope this helps Best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Coilovers Graeme? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Hi Graeme Fabulous.. I see that you have got the power steering. I have this on my 6 and on the 5 that I'm re-building. You may have already taken account of this, but when you get round to fitting the engine. The gap between the front pulley and the power steering body, is oh, so very close.. I had to move the engine/ gearbox back a bit to provide a bigger gap and insert some spacers on the engine mounts. Otherwise, as on my 6, I found after a while and when the engine bay gets warm, the engine would move forward slightly and the pulley would rub up against the power steering body especially when braking. I also took the precaution of fitting a spare fan belt on the engine side by wrapping it in a cycle inner tube and fixing it with tie wraps around the timing cover, so that in the event of a fan belt failure you can easily change. I hope this helps Best Bill Oh and I forgot. here are 2 other things that I did. 1) If you need to change the fan belt and the power steering belt and it's not a road side quick fix, which is what the above 2nd belt is for, then it's possible to modify the base plate for the power steering by loosening off the plate a little. So that you can tilt the plate forward a by a small amount,just enough to get the belts through without disturbing or disconnecting anything. To do that though, you will find (can't remember which side) you will need to weld the bolt head to the plate. You will see that when the rack is fitted to the plate you can't get at the top of the bolt to hold and undo the nut underneath. It's only one side as you can get to the other side fairly easily. 2) I used a Harley Davidson front fork bellows to go over the power steering ram. It's a tough fit and you have to undo the hydraulic securing bolt to push the bellows on. Then simply re-assemble and tie rap at each end. Works very well. best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Bill did you have to then shorten the props haft ? or not that much movement ? Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Prop shafts have a siding spline joint that allows for forward and backward movement, well that's what I think it's for. Well done Graeme nice work as always.l Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Bill did you have to then shorten the props haft ? or not that much movement ? Roy Hi Roy No, as you only need about 1/8" - 1/4" space and as Mark has said above the propshaft has a sliding spline. best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted December 15, 2016 Report Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hi Mark yes the sliding splines do allow movement but to get over this same problem we moved an engine back 20mm which made the shaft almost fully compressed so had it reduced to suit. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted December 18, 2016 Report Share Posted December 18, 2016 I had this kit fitted to the rear ( rear shock inside coil) for eight years and it worked very well. On close inspection the top bridge started to show hairline cracks where the spring sits. I decided to remove the whole lot,weld the hairline cracks and went back to lever arms.The pot holes did not help. I may have been unlucky but--- Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 I had this kit fitted to the rear ( rear shock inside coil) for eight years and it worked very well. On close inspection the top bridge started to show hairline cracks where the spring sits. I decided to remove the whole lot,weld the hairline cracks and went back to lever arms.The pot holes did not help. I may have been unlucky but--- Regards Harry Not entirely, I have seen the same cracks with that fitted. To do it properly you need a spring bridge designed for the job. The guy that made some chassis after Rubery Owen stopped making them had the right idea. See picture below of one of his chassis fitted to Jeff Marks TR5. Unfortunately he only made 12 of them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted December 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2016 Sorry for the delay in replying, been suffering from man flu. Thanks for all the comments, and I will take Bill's comments into consideration when mounting the engine. I have had the coil over kit for about ten years intending to fit it to the 4A but never got 'a round tuit' so I decided to fit it to the TR250. The spring tower has been heavily reinforced, similar to chassis mentioned by Stuart, although I had not seen it before. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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