foster461 Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Am I correct that all of the folds in the cardboard ducting are done such that the folded material is facing the front and that on a TR3A the ducting can/should be installed after the apron is installed ? Pictures would be good.. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Stan Can´t say re the cardboard type as mine is 2mm aluminium, but it was installed AFTER the apron is on. Don´t forget to make and fit a top plate as well. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Hi Stan ~ I made my duct from aluminium. As Dave says, I also fitted a top plate so that the air is directed through the radiator and doesn't take the easy route over the top. I fitted the duct after fitting the front apron. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Hi again Stan ~ I forgot to include a photo. showing the completed duct. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 The card one is easily fitted with the front on and thats when you see how the folds go up at the top to the rad, I personally dont like Ally ones as they will chafe in use and do damage as well as killing the rad with the slightest nudge in the front. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Hi Stan, I did mine as you describe. Test fitted - it was too high. Trimmed it - still tight sprayed red and applied some waterproof varnish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mart O Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Hi, I did the same, although I hand-painted mine in body colour and you would never tell through the grill. You need to take the grill out, obviously! It took a couple of trial fittings, to cut a decent profile for the top of duct, with it firmly against the radiator front frame edge. Good scissors cut it easily, repainting the new edge and folds to get it water tight. You have to remove the bumper upright bracket, which goes through the duct and i found the holes didn't quite line up, but were easy to widen slightly and there is plenty of room to drill the holes in the apron floor panel with a standard electric drill. I painted the new holes, 2 each side, and squirted a bit of Dinitrol 3125 in, before screwing down with self tappers with a plastic thread cover on the underside. One of the easier jobs! Edited March 25, 2016 by Mart O Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Well the duct fitting did not go well. I should not have painted it before fitting it as each bend proceeded to de-laminate the fiberboard. The right thing to do is fit and adjust/fettle/cut/bend so that it fits as well as a floppy bit of ill fitting cardboard is going to fit and then paint it. New duct ordered, next try later this week. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hi Stan, I suspect it tears whether painted or not, the paint just highlights it. At least painting (again) after folding means that you can seal the cracks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mart O Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Yes, I agree. I painted mine first. At least you can get the shape spot on with the first one, then use it as a pattern for the new one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Yes, I agree. I painted mine first. At least you can get the shape spot on with the first one, then use it as a pattern for the new one? Yep, a universal truth of restorations, never buy just one of anything because the chances are you will screw it up, lose it or break it and will need another pretty soon. Then when you need it they will be out of stock with no date for future availability. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Hi Stan -. I put it in in 1990. Before that, I had no air deflector. I bought my TR3A new and my early TR3A came without an air deflector. They hadn't been "invented" yet. It has about 6 coats of black (body colour) on it and it's still holding up well. The problem is that when you scrub off the dead bugs, you have to paint it again to cover the bare spots. Cheers Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 i also added several coats of stone sealer / satin varnish over the paint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 And if you are intending to put an air duct through it, cut out the hole before you fit the deflector. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Using the screwed up duct as a template I modified the replacement slightly and that now fits pretty well. I am still unclear what this rear fold is supposed to do but I assume that flap and the one on the other side are not mean to be blocking the outer columns of the radiator. I wonder are these mean to be folded back ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Stan Yes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mart O Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hi, I found the vertical fold worked just right so that the main side pieces of the duct pushed up to the radiator, with the long vertical flap then folded inwards, flush up to and in line with the radiator frame, but not overlapping any of the radiator vanes. The width of the top cross piece was perfect for my rad, so this all fitted with the sides vertical. Also, this way not much air can escape out the side between the rad and duct. Your photo seems to suggest the side piece is leaning inwards slightly at the bottom, rather than being vertical? The more curved shape top folds I also folded inwards (i.e. away from the inner wings), as it seemed to fit well that way and I thought that would also keep more in, it was also easier to adjust and fit that way round. To be honest, I doubt it makes much difference. Just that's how it seemed to fit best on mine without obscuring any of the core. Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hi, I found the vertical fold worked just right so that the main side pieces of the duct pushed up to the radiator, with the long vertical flap then folded inwards, flush up to and in line with the radiator frame, but not overlapping any of the radiator vanes. The width of the top cross piece was perfect for my rad, so this all fitted with the sides vertical. Also, this way not much air can escape out the side between the rad and duct. Your photo seems to suggest the side piece is leaning inwards slightly at the bottom, rather than being vertical? The more curved shape top folds I also folded inwards (i.e. away from the inner wings), as it seemed to fit well that way and I thought that would also keep more in, it was also easier to adjust and fit that way round. To be honest, I doubt it makes much difference. Just that's how it seemed to fit best on mine without obscuring any of the core. Martin Yes Martin, things are a bit skewed in that picture but I did fold back those vertical seams and they now slot in next to the side of the radiator and the overall trapezoiding effect is reduced as the rad forces the duct into alignment. I think I am calling this close enough and will paint it tomorrow and move on. Thanks again everyone for the guidance. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 The card one is easily fitted with the front on and thats when you see how the folds go up at the top to the rad, I personally dont like Ally ones as they will chafe in use and do damage as well as killing the rad with the slightest nudge in the front. Stuart. I agree on the rad killing risk. I've seen a TR with a leaking radiator after only touching a car in front. The towbar of the car in front came in contact with the grill, the grill came off, folded backwards, pushing the ally duct inwards. The sharp edge killed the radiator core. So badly it had to come out and had to be recored. Lesson learned? Well... In a perfect life only a new grill. Now? Havoc. I have a cardboard deflector. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 The simple answer to Menno´s problem is NOT to point the ali at the rad core but to the side of it. If anybody is going to hit the front of your car that hard, other more serious damage to at least the apron is on the cards. Also my ali one is not fixed to the grill so how did that tow hitch cause that type of damage? Lastly I don´t have to repaint my duct after removing the flies and other debris as the paint is polished like the other body work and the flies don´t stick that hard, and we get more debris hitting our cars because of the dry hot weather, they don´t fly in the rain Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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