peejay4A Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) Here's a dumb question.... Do the sump bolts penetrate the sump cavity? Nearly all of mine have oil on them. It's not coming from above, the front oil seal is sound and I was careful with the application of gasket sealer - and I dressed the bolt holes in the sump flat before installing it a couple of years ago. So can oil splash get down the threads? Edited February 13, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Hi Pete, the screws down the sides open to the outside. I believe the front and back are blind. It could be wicking through the gasket. On my 4A engine I noticed those screws were forever covered in oil. When I took the engine apart I found the hub http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-components.html #75 had serious wear from the oil seal. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks Roger. I've a narrow belt conversion so the hub's fine and there's no leak from the front. Looks like the sump's coming off. I might try one of those gasket making RTV compounds in lieu of a paper gasket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Front left corner is where mine weeps, and the front centre bolt which is very short (piece 37) http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mod. Park it facing up hill . I made a few oval washers to spread the load for half a dozen bolts at the front of the sump, also managed to whack out most of the distortion! No matter what you do oil will still find it's way out of a Triumph.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 also managed to whack out most of the distortion! Pete, There are more than a few oddballs reasons for sumps leaking, but it makes sense to start out with the most common and easiest remedies. You may not have fully appreciated kob's comment. The sump flange is prone to distortion from overtightening the sump bolts. Remedy is (with the sump off) to hammer flat the area around the bolt. Heat would help if you have it available. Need to shrink the bolt holes back to flat. Improved gasket solutions will help, as does kob's idea of washers to spread the load, but a standard gasket, sump flange without any distortion and specified torque for the bolts IS enough to seal against leakage. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks folks. As I said, I did dress the sump flange flat - probably not flat enough. The thing is that almost all the bolts have an oil drip on them and the rest of the sump is dry including around the edges. Off it comes and I'll try a gasket maker to see if that improves things. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Pete, the area on the gasket around the screw holes is quite narrow. So it wouldn;t take a lot of effort for a leak to appear. In a pointless efort to stop the same on my engine I took all the screws out and re-fitted them covered in Hylomar. The spring washer can't be sealed with out a bit of help. The silicone sealant may do the job better. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) Pete I've been down this route.The thread for the sump bolts are coarse. I tried PFTE tape ...without success and then tried Heldite jointing compound , all sorts of application ,vehicles , marine , aviation , MOD approved, etc.Worked for me ! Silicone sealant might well do the trick but when the time comes to take the sump off , cleaning off the silicone would be a pain in the whatsit. Bob Edited February 14, 2016 by bob-menhennett Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Pete ~ May I suggest that you fit a cork gasket instead of those thin paper efforts. It certainly worked for me. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Good thinking Tom. But where can I get one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Pete ~ Any of the TR suppliers stock cork gaskets. TR Shop, Moss, Revington etc. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) I too used a cork gasket no leaks after 2½ years, & 3500 miles. Got mine from the TR shop, but I have a feeling they may not have them any more ? Bob. Edited February 14, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Cheers guys. Revington list them so I'll call tomorrow to check that they really do. Permatex gasket maker gets a good write up around the place so I think I'll try that on it's own as a starter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Pete Save your money and more leaks,do as Roger said to the bolts and RTV both sides of the std casket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) Thanks Neil. Belt and braces it is. Edited February 14, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Pete And use RTV on the bolts also leave overnight ,it will not leak. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 The smart alec who will start manufacturing & selling braces for oil pans for Brit cars will soon be set for life... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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