HomersSpiceRack Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Hi all, Put new fuel pump on car Saturday morning, son sat in car to fire her up whilst I kept an eye on things under the bonnet. She tried hard to start first time but on second attempt ignition lights went out, she wouldn't spin over and everything was dead. I checked fuses and that the battery was fully charged but then packed up for the day as I was cold and also a dreadful auto electrician. My next stop was going to be the ignition switch but I am sure someone will pint me in a better direction to trace the fault? Many thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Do the lights work? Check the battery connections for security first. Next check the other end of the earth wire for condition and security. Third check the connection to the starter motor terminals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) If absolutly everything is dead (lights, cabin fan, fuel pump etc) do you have one of those battery isolation terminals? If so is it screwed fully home? A poor connection within the isolator could work until it got slightly worse by heating whilst cranking then passing more through its bypass fuse which eventually popped. The fuse in the bypass is there to give the impression all is well to a would be thief until the car was cranked when it would blow. The fuse is typically a few inches from the battery terminal isolator but is not needed if the isolator is screwed fully home with a good contact. Alan Edited February 1, 2016 by barkerwilliams Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) If you hear a click but no starter noise, give the starter solenoid ( cylinder above the starter motor) a thump when trying the key. Or the starter Bendix might have stuck in engagement with the flywheel. Push-pull the car in gear to free it. a stalled starter motor will take around 800A and the volts go down low. Peter Edited February 1, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Does the pump run with the ignition switch in position 1? If not and you get no starter action when in the start position it points to a failed switch or no feed to the switch. Out with the multimeter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hi HSR, welcome to the forum. Have you got a name. Have you got a decent wiring diagram http://www.advanceautowire.com Apart from the above advice do some basics. Use al the clues - head lights working, fuel pump running etc etc. Then start with the battery and work along the 12V line Good luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alec Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hi I have had this problem in the past. Just turned out to be the battery terminals. The terminals were tight but corrosion on the battery lead posts was sufficient to cause an open circuit. Just a twist on the terminals got me going again. Now I check & clean the battery terminals yearly. Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HomersSpiceRack Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Thanks all, that gets me goinging but as I said I am a poor electrician, bizzarely working in the electrical industry! I think all lights are out regardless of ignition position which I guess points to switch or battery and I couldn't hear the click suggesting a stuck starter motor which after 30 odd years of owning classics I am familiar with. When the electrics failed I was vaugly aware of a flash under the bonnet at high level to the drivers side or that side of the battery with the accompaning electronic spark noise but as I say I am not confident of this at all. Thanks again Nic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 In which case check out Alec's suggestion first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 When removing terminals from a battery always remove the earth first. And refit earth last . So your spanner cannot complete a short-circuit from the live ( red) terminal to earth and back through the battery. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 It wasn't on the TR, but I've experienced something similar on another car - nothing at all happening when turning the ignition key and no ignition lights. In that instance it turned out to be a corroded earth, so if the battery is fully charged, the terminals are clean and the leads are attached properly, I think I'd start with checking the earth lead. Cheers, Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hot-growler Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I bet a lucar connector has come adrift at the back of the switch so no voltage is getting through. investigate switch first. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HomersSpiceRack Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Well only got to look at the car again this weekend but thank you all for the suggestions and it turned out to be the earth lead. Both ends seemed solid, nothing with a twist and a tug but when I earthed the middle of the lead everything lit up like a Christmas tree. A happy owner Thanks again Nic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Glad you got it sorted Nic. Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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