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hot-growler

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  • Content Count

    157
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About hot-growler

  • Birthday 07/03/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lancashire
  • Cars Owned:
    various

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views
  1. SHi, rebuilt my 150pi engine and purchased new throttle linkages as my old ones were badly worn. Got it all together and it's running like a pig. Is there anyone in the Lancashire area that can give me a hand. I have a couple of synchro gadgets and am aware of the theory of the job, but putting into practice is something quite different altogether. Thanks, Stephen
  2. Hi, does anyone know the best way to replace the central spindle bush on the throttle shaft? Is it just a case of cutting and opening it up & gluing it back together? thanks, Steve.
  3. Hello. I have since refitted the bits and tries again. Is it normal for pressure to increase when adjusting screw clockwise with a bit of fuel leaving the back of the valve (max pressure was 105) and then pressure drop with a significant gush of fuel?. Well that is what has happened, so i backed it anticlockwise and left it at 105. Thanks, steve.
  4. prv.mhtmlHi, checking fuel pressure at the metering unit, i'm only getting 90PSI, so I decided to strip the PRV. I think the nylon adjuster was seized. Anyway I found a flat rubber washer at the bottom of the valve housing. The workshop manual shows no sign of it in the stripdown pic. Should it be there. Are there any ways to increase pressure to 105PSI? Thanks a mil
  5. Thanks for advice, I will ill get new sprockets before I fit engine. Did as John said but valves on #1 port are open and closed on #6
  6. Thanks, sounds simple, will give it a try. I remember doing timing on my Stag and seemed much simpler.
  7. Does my first pic show roughly where it needs to be for correct timing? if so then for marks A and B to line up, mark C is out. Interestingly my marks A and C on my cam sprocket are different to the Workshop Manual
  8. Hi, i currently have the crank at TDC and timing marks 'C' lined up as in brown repair manual. dots A and B are where the book suggests, but valves are open on #1 cylinder but closed on #6. Have I got the camshaft 180 degrees out? When i turn the camshaft to close valves on cylinder 1 the timing mark 'C' is 180 degrees out. I'm confused. Steve
  9. hi has anyone got a front on pic of timing chain cover, re-fitting engine together and need pic to see where studs, screws and bolts fit. had a pic but think i deleted them by mistake, thanks steve.
  10. hi everyone, i haven't read any of the replies for a few days as i was kindly given a cap by jerrytr5 for a nominal fee. Tried the cap as was but could feel a lip that showed it wasn't in line with the lower curve of the bearing housing, and when bolted up the crank wouldn't budge. Took it to an engineering shop in Bradford called W Drake ltd that specizlise in line boring, and miraculously they line bored it back to original. All 4 caps have been worked slightly. Have trial fitted the crank back in and it seems to be fine, the crank spins freely with caps torqued down. Thank y
  11. standards before, 10 thou after. not measured. will get my micrometer out to be sure.
  12. would it not also stop the crank from turning when bolted up?
  13. I considered just fitting and hoping for the best so i refitted the broken cap and torqued it up and pieces fitted together well. added engineers blue and seemed to turn very easily. shell was fine, no obvious rubbing of the crank Not going to go down that road cos if it fails under load there'll be a mess. Just had crank ground to 10 thou and correct bearings fitted.
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