foster461 Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 The new gasket for the spare tire cubby has this cross section: I have two options for how to install it in the recess, one is with the tab facing up like this: The other option is with the tab facing down like this: I can see how both options would work but which one is correct ? There may actually be other permutations as the "sides" of the seal may be of different lengths.. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Hi Stan, I would do with the first option due to the shape if the lid bracing. I did not use it because it was too hard (compound that is) which ever way it was fitted it forced the lid too far out, I looked just plain wrong. In the end I used 3m sponge strip built up the create a seal. The repro seals supplied in the UK are typically harder than the original shore hardness. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 I saw from a earlier search that other people have abandonned the factory style seal for something that compresses easily. My repro seal from TRF seems pretty soft so I guess I will give it a go and have a plan B if it doesnt allow the door to close fully. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Stan - Put it in but don't glue it in. Give it a test period. Then use your garden hose to see if it is leakproof. Then you might later decide to glue it in - or maybe you'll do like I did. 26 years ago on my early TR3A with the square corners for the boot, I never glued it in. It never leaked and I can remove (I just pull it out) to clean out the sand and road dust the gets into the grooved areas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Stan, i know it probably doesn't help but i found the TRF seal was just too hard and the lid didn't fit properly, fortunately the original seal was still serviceable so i refitted it and put the new one in my spares box to look at when i have nothing better to do Regards Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Sorry Stan - I was thinking of the seal for the boot lid. As for my spare tire door, I bought my seal from Cox and Buckles in 1989 and had to trim about 1/8" off the back where I glued it in. I can't say if it was moulded too big or if the rubber had less compressibility. I made sure that the joint was at bottom center. It's been fine since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Sorry Stan - I was thinking of the seal for the boot lid. As for my spare tire door, I bought my seal from Cox and Buckles in 1989 and had to trim about 1/8" off the back where I glued it in. I can't say if it was moulded too big or if the rubber had less compressibility. I made sure that the joint was at bottom center. It's been fine since. I did wonder if you were thinking of the boot lid seal Don. I think I will try and tack the seal in place with a few pieces of double sided tape and then see how the lid fits. That will tell me if it will work or if I need to trim the seal a little. It would also allow the seal to compress if I just leave it with the lid closed for a few days/weeks as long as I can get it latched. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 The usual problem is that yes you can get the latches to engage but as the seal is a tad too thick and not as compressible then it forces the middle of the door out thus making the fit all wrong. FWIW I was the one who came up with the idea of using the 3M sponge strip as all you really need is to insulate the two panels apart and if the shapes of the rear lip of the door and the channel of the opening are pretty much the same shape then the extra compressibility of the sponge will still seal against water ingress. I dont have a 3M part number but its 15mm wide and 5mm thick with a self adhesive rear. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Sorry Stan - I was thinking of the seal for the boot lid. As for my spare tire door, I bought my seal from Cox and Buckles in 1989 and had to trim about 1/8" off the back where I glued it in. I can't say if it was moulded too big or if the rubber had less compressibility. I made sure that the joint was at bottom center. It's been fine since. That's much the same as me, mine came from the TR shop, but was too thick, after a trim it now fits well. Glued in place using evostick, join at the bottom centre. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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