aleda Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi Troops, Ordered my new seatbelts, should be able to fit them myself. Thanks for advice. Next issue is the gaiter. As Roger has previously suggested, I think the current one is knocking the overdrive out. It's really hard rubber and also difficult to get to switches behind it. There's the remains of a leather one underneath, I'm wondering if I am going to have to try and make one out of vinyl if I can't get a better one to fit. Any advice greatly appreciated Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 That doesn't look like the right gaiter for a TR4a. Mine is in two parts. One fits into the tunnel cover and the leather bit sits inside that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted August 21, 2015 Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 indeed, wrong gaiter and wrong setup. This gaiter of yours is for a TR4, the TR4A is 2 pieces (collar and top) and fits this way: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Hi Christine, have a look at the Moss cat http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/gearboxes-components/gearboxes-external-components.html items 7, 8, 9. I think you need either item 7 or 8 & 9. 8 & 9 would be my choice. Regarding the gaiter knocking it out of OD - remove the gaiter and go for a drive, see what happens. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I don't suppose you are bothered Christine but at some point the heat and heat distribution controls, or maybe just the knobs, have been transposed on your car. The heat control is on the left on both LH and RHD cars. Your gear lever grommet looks remarkably like item 6 (part no. 705913) in the drawing referred to by Roger. It is shown as correct for TR4-4A. Maybe early 4As had the one piece. My car (CTC 73369 0)had the two piece from new. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Hi Tim, your comment about the heater control is a 'hang up' that I have. I always found that operating either device was difficult. Part of the problem was that the operating cable for both has to do a big 'S' bend and being a solid internal wire makes life hard. I swapped them over and now the heater valve control and heater lower flap go in a more direct line thus removing this difficulty. Christine may simply have the knobs swapped over. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 You are absolutely right Roger. I can't thing why, in 45 years of ownership, it didn't occur to me simply to switch the cables over! Brains will tell. However, the heater distribution has always worked fine and since changing the heater valve for a simple gate type this control has been much smoother and more progressive in action. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I think the gaiter that Christine has is the TR4 item to suit the TR4 H frame. Wrong for the TR4A. I wonder if the tunnel cover grommet is actually there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I recently had the gaiter off my car and managed to put it on backwards. Result was car dropped out of third. Maybe turn it around might help Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aleda Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Thanks everyone for input. I did spot the knobs round the wrong way after a rewire but haven't yet switched them back as I never use them, interesting that maybe they've been re-routed anyway, will check that out. Hmm, this will be my third attempt at ordering correct gear lever gaiter, shall I go for 8 and 9, I guess it will look like Geko's and go under the metal ring? Tried holding the gear lever in 4th with overdrive selected, well my passenger did! Didn't jump out then. Anyone want to buy a TR4 gaiter Ha Ha Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) The metal ring isn't original. I think you'll need to take the h frame out to fit the lower grommet to the tunnel cover. Then your choice of gaiter fits inside the lower grommet. If you want leather, or vinyl (my choice) you need item 7 for the upper gaiter which also goes inside the lower grommet. Sorry to be blunt but what you have there at the moment is a bit of a bodge. Edited August 22, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aleda Posted August 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Ouch Pete, there's not many of who haven't inherited a 'bodge' though. Slowly getting it all sorted. I've looked at images on google of TR4A cockpits and I do like the look of the vinyl gaiter, just hope the circumference is big enough as I ordered that style elsewhere when I first started to sort this and it was way too small. I can clean and repaint the metal ring and it should look a lot better? Just hope there's no surprises when the tunnel cover comes off. BTW I have got a new switch plinth but that's a Winter job when I re veneer the dash. Thank you everyone for your helpful advice Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 The proper fabric gaiter should have a rubber reinforcing ring which fits into the big grommet on the transmission tunnel. General purpose gaiters probably won't have that and won't provide a good seal into the grommet. I guess that's why the ring was fitted by a PO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Hi Christine, Bodges happen - I do them !! Sometimes you have a Moss part in your hand and no matter what, you end up thinking -'time for a bodge' The metal ring around the gaiter can look good. I have a delicate very thin ring around the edge of the hole. Others have rings form MG's etc and are more like your one. It would look good in polished stainless steel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aleda Posted August 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Hmm, very smart but where's a girl to go for stainless steel! Decision made I think, will clean up existing metal ring for now and spray it black and order 8 and 9 from Moss, take tunnel out and fit, phew. Thank you everyone. Christine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Just get your ring polished and chromed. Won't cost a lot. Will look stunning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 To be correct for a 4a you want items 7 and 9 as 7 has 8 inside it. Fit 9 to g/box cover and then fit the base of 7 into its top groove, you will have to check which way 9 is fitted to the g/box cover as it only goes one way without fouling the stick in 1st and 3rd. You will have to remove the H frame to do it and FWIW I have the heater controls the same as Roger as they work much smoother. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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