Chris Porter Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 The inertia switch on my TR6 is kaput so I've tried to order a replacement. No longer available I'm told so ordered a replacement kit from Rimmers. This has arrived consisting of three components, five leads with differing connections and some nuts, bolts and washers - so nothing like the grey plastic tube I'm replacing. I've asked Rimmers if they can provide any fitting instructions but no response yet. Has any forum member come across any guidance for this job or had to tackle it without? Any help would be much appreciated. Chris Porter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Hi Chris. I'd be tempted to send it back and get one off EBay, a few do come up in various conditions. This one looks a bit tatty, and you can take them apart and clean the ball etc worth a go. Good luck Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 If it's the black replacement they've sent you, they're from MGFs/Rovers. Looking at the pic on the website there looks like there is a warning light as well to let you know why the car won't start. The spade connectors on the switch should run to the fuel pump (or pump relay if fitted) and if you want to install the light that looks like the bullet connector. I expect that's live when the switch is activated. I got one of those when mine packed up but not including the warning light. You can either rivet it to the firewall or I got an adapter made up (from 3D printed Titanium...long story, but plastic would work too). The adapter rivets to the firewall in the original spots the clips for the old one did & the cross member bolts to the new inertia switch. If you want, I have the template and if you want it printed in Ti I can give you the contact for the guy who did it (or it's in the pic). We are in NZ (easy to mail) or if there's someone in UK who does 3D Ti printing it'd be quite easy for them. Just PM me. MT TR6 Part for inertia switch..pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 All moderns run EFI, and they all have an inertia switch. One type is used by so many manufacturers - Landrover, Jaguar, Citroen, Peugeot, Renault, Maserati, MG, Honda, Fiat, etc. etc. etc They are for sale on eBay for about £10. See: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=fuel+ineria+switch&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfuel+inertia+switch.TRS0&_nkw=fuel+inertia+switch&_sacat=0 Always ask for connector that goes with it, as otherwise you will have nothing to attach to the loom! Two models, with and without the warning light. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
modelbuilder Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 These are the same as the originals. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-DAIMLER-SERIES-2-XJ6-XJ12-FUEL-CUT-OFF-INERTIA-SWITCH-C41220-/151122629038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232f9c51ae Rodders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hi Chris! As per John's E bay address there is a person with a bin full of these switches for sale at £17 + postage they were also fitted to Jags! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brucer Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 I got one from the local car breaker for £1.50. Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilfried Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 The inertia switch on my TR6 is kaput Chris Porter Why dont you just open the kaput switch? It is a very simple device with a steel ball, a contact bridge. If "armed", the ball makes contact. On impact, the ball is kicked out of contact. Kaput probably means bad contact. Clean it reassemble it and you will have an "Erfolgserlebnis". Wilfried Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Chris. I did mine just this week, following info from others here (thanks again chaps!). Carefully depress the retaining pins in the outside of the joint between tube and base, then slide the base out. Easy! Once it is open, the insides are not what you would call 'complicated'. 5 minutes with fine wet and dry then brake cleaner/airline. If you can, blow any muck out from around the central magnetic core, it affects ball operation/seating. Normal service resumed!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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