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Hi Folks

 

I guess there will be as many opinions as members, but running in oil recomendations (NB. John D your message box is no longer receiving messages)

 

New crank grind and shells, bores just rehoned and new rings, new valve guides.

 

Was thinking of: Millers Oils CRO 10W40 Competition Mineral Running In Engine Oil 5 Litres

Thoughts?

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Millers running in oil is my choice, about £30

 

Tom

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So you have found a need for it then Neil?! ?

 

:)

 

Tom

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Never found the need for it apart from the first 20 minuets.

Glad its wasn't Wagners Ring Cycle :-)

 

I have never used it before but given the last engine blow up, and the cost and effort gone into this one I thought I'd give it every chance possible and also given the possible/probable bore glazing last time thought I'd give the new rings as much help as possible.

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Glad its wasn't Wagners Ring Cycle :-)

 

I have never used it before but given the last engine blow up, and the cost and effort gone into this one I thought I'd give it every chance possible and also given the possible/probable bore glazing last time thought I'd give the new rings as much help as possible.

They will all sell you it,after first run up it is knackerd but what do I know?

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I can't help thinking that if an engine requires new oil and filter after just 20 minutes, then there was something unsatisfactory about the rebuilding process.

 

I have known a few good engine builders over the years, and one attitude in common has been that of using a running-in oil of one description or another - the Morris product seems to be a long lived favourite . . . . . http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/golden-film-running-in-oil.html . . . . it's been around a long time. The preferences of individual rebuilders have varied a little in terms of which oil, what mileage to change at, how many rpm etc etc . . . . but the principle remains the same.

 

All of the specific running-in oils I've seen have been SAE 30, but I'd guess any relatively simple formulation 'fleet' oil will do a reasonable job, always assuming a sensible approach from the nut behind the wheel. As long as components can 'bed-in' that's really all that's needed initially, avoiding excessive stress or revs until the engine has settled-down and been refilled with a more sophisticated lubricant brew - and then build up revs steadily. Just because it's possible to rev the balls of an engine after just a few hundred miles doesn't necessarily mean it's sensible - and certainly not if you want to be driving the same engine a decade or two down the road . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

Edited by Alec Pringle
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I can't help thinking that if an engine requires new oil and filter after just 20 minutes, then there was something unsatisfactory about the rebuilding process.

 

 

Hi Alec

Defo does today with all the modern materials used today in build.

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British Motor Heritage launched its own branded version of popular oils when I worked for them. That was in partnership with Duckhams.

I recall that Heritage Gold 'running in oil' was a mineral based oil without friction modifiers. The oil was designed to allow the bedding in process to be completed during the running in period. Running in is often stated as 250 - 500 miles max using running in oil then service with new filter and regular oil.

 

The product sold well as did the original green coloured classic 20w50.

 

The oil engineers complained that modern car service periods were too long for our older engines as they had not formulated a suitable oil - they recommended oil and filter change be done at the original service time. ie 3000 miles for most of our cars.

 

Service period is variable, determined by use and operating environment conditions.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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All what modern materials, Neil ?

 

The average TR engine rebuild utilises pretty similar mechanical component to original, it's only really the sealant products that have evolved drastically.

 

If the rebuilder is insufficiently skilled and conscientious, then agreed the lack of attention to detail will be revealed in terms of sealant contamination being detached and clogging the filter.

 

The last two TR engine rebuilds I've been involved with were by Sigma - there was no trace of contamination, sealant or metal swarf, visible when the running-in oil filter was removed and sliced open for inspection . . . . . after 500 miles.

 

If you're talking of more modern engine designs, then concern about modern materials may well be more relevant.

 

Pink, I reckon Neil had his tongue in his cheek . . . . if you want a TR engine to last, you run it in sensibly. Driving it like you stole it from the kick-off is a recipe for a merry life but a short one.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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OTU,

No PMs for me here on the board from anyone since February. (is it bcoz I is ape?)

And my email box is working fine.

 

If you wanted to talk, presume you have read my views on extra zinc posted before?

 

JOhn

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Just because it's possible to rev the balls of an engine after just a few hundred miles doesn't necessarily mean it's sensible - and certainly not if you want to be driving the same engine a decade or two down the road . . . . .

 

My ambitions are a bit more limited. I'd just like to finish the season at Prescott Oct 2016 on the same engine without another rebuild and about 1000 miles on the clock, anything after that would be a bonus :) which means that apart from 3-500 miles running in (next week will be busy), the rest will be spent close to the rev limit ;)

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OTU,

No PMs for me here on the board from anyone since February. (is it bcoz I is ape?)

And my email box is working fine.

 

If you wanted to talk, presume you have read my views on extra zinc posted before?

 

JOhn

Hi John

 

The Forum software says:

The member john.r.davies cannot receive any new messages

Probably a another data size limit of the forum based on 1980's storage costs :angry:

I knew I had seen a couple of postings from you on running in, however another annoying feature of the forum software is that it refuses to allow a search on a word less tham 4 characters in length, so a search for oil or cam on a motoring website implies that you are doing something akin to searching for porm "gime a break".

Alan

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Thanks, OTU!

Strange the ways of the electron.

I'll ask the WebMaster for advice.

Meanwhile, my run-in oil is cheapo supermarket stuff - I'll throw it away after 500 miles or so - with Zinc additive, Lucas Break-in.

Together costs about as much as a can of Duckols made-up stuff, but MUCH more zinc.

 

John

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The idea of running in oil is to allow a bit of wear which allows the rings to bed in and thus seal. they tend not to have too many of the friction reducing additives to allow this to happen.

 

Too good an oil with an array of friction reducing chemicals may not allow the wear to occur and once the bores have glazed up you may well end up with excess oil consumption. Oddly enough "cheapo supermarket oil" may be a bad option as it is often a cheapo base oil with a large glug of friction reducing additives - lubricates very well early on but doesn't sustain that for long.

 

Modern engines tend to be machined to far finer tolerances so don't need running in compared to our cars.

 

A running in oil (or running in for that matter) shouldn't be needed if all the components were perfect (by modern standards) and the machining was done to modern tolerances - but the different materials used in old cars and the clearances specified mean that a bedding in period is going to be needed.

 

Should you need to change the oil? Yes after the first few hundred miles you want to swap to an oil that prevents wear.

Should you change the filter? - Yes -there is always a risk that some swarf or crud will have got hidden and dodged the most diligent of cleanings, So so the sake of a fiver retaining the filter is a false economy.

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Profit margin and advertising budget.

Price and quality however are not always a linear equation however!

 

Even relatively low cost brands like Millers sold the same oil under different names and at different prices.

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