richard dooley Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 hello, my first time on the forum so treat me gently has anyone a reasonably guarranteed way of removing the rearwheel studs. I have tried the obvious of locking 2 plain 7/16 unf nuts but can't get them tight enough without fear of stripping them. Have tried stillsons on the plain dia. shoulder-but that just gets chewed up.The next step would seem to be to start welding on to the studs-but this would be very much a "one way street" if I still can't shift them.Is it better to give up now and live with wire wheels only? Any inspiration would probably help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Welcome to the forum Richard! My rear wheel studs relatively easily 'tapped out' - not threaded at all... I am under the impression they were all similar... Putting new ones in required a spacer of appropriate size/length and a nut to draw into position if the hub is not removed.. It can be done without hub removal but is more awkward... Good luck! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richard dooley Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Ian, Thanks for the info.-on a 5 I think both front and rear wheel studs were press-ins but on the 3a only the fronts were press-in and the rears were unfortunately screw-in. Yes the fronts were easy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 I guess you know the studs are peened over at the rear to stop them coming undone. Just winding them out would probably ruin the thread in the flange. What studs are you intending the fit in place of the ones you remove - threaded as orig or splined type from the later car? Do you need the thread? Is the flange still fitted to the half shaft? - If not you could drill the rear face peening on a pillar drill. Perhaps shorten but leaving enough for a nut to weld to. Drill through stud axis with as big a drill bit as you dare, weld on nut then try to wind out. Get the peened area red hot with oxy/propane torch and then unscrew using your two nuts method - You will need to use some form of heat blocker on the flange Use this stuff - it actually works:- http://www.brianhyde.co.uk/store/product/1371.aspx or http://usaknifemaker.com/block-it-heat-absorbing-paste.html If that fails cut flush to the flange front face and screw the stud through from the front - tapered piece of square tool steel can be tapped in the hole and turned with a suitable tool. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy3 Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 I have found it necessary to remove the hubs to successfully remove the studs. It is relatively easy to remove the hubs if you can get hold of the correct puller. The studs are screwed in and peened over to prevent them unscrewing. I have seen them tack welded in place also. You will need to grind/drill the peened portion out. One of our members removed them by cutting them off flush and screwed them out through the hub with a easy out. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) I found a dremel to be very usefull with this on my Tr3. With a metal disc wheel you can get in there at the back with hub still on car, then a sharp set of stilsons with plus gas. Job done Good luck. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/41868-short-studs/ Of course you may have difficulty if you are fitting new screw in type with penning it over with hub on car. With mine I fitted push in type in there place, from memory I had to carefuly drill the old stud hole marginaly, to enable the push in type to get a bite as I pulled it through the hub. Edited February 16, 2015 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richard dooley Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Many thanks one and all. I had felt round the back of the studs to try and detect any locking method and found nothing-but now Iknow what to look for Ican detect the peening/swaging.Iwill remove the hubs and halfshafts and do the job on the bench. Am intending to replace with screw in type unless anyone has dire warnings-there were no problems with my present ones except they are short for splined hub adaptors and I want the option of fitting some disc wheels -I have the spacers for going back to wires. Am feeling a lot more confident now I know what my problem was -hopefully in a week or so I will be able to report success. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Its not really recommended to go back to screw in ones unless you can properly peen over the rear of the stud again and to do this successfully really needs the hub removing from the half shaft which unless you have the correct puller is no mean feat. I would drill out the threads and change to the later pull through type of stud for permanent peace of mind. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy3 Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I tend to agree with Stewart but have just replaced mine so achieve the minimum threads required by our local race authorities. The standard long steel wheel studs are not long enough. Removed the hubs (have a puller), removed the studs and fitted 2" high tensile cap screws with thin washer from the rear and tightened them to prevent them from unscrewing. The washer is used to allow for the thread on the cap screw not running all the way to the hex head. By doing this, no machining is required, preventing any chance of misalignment. To locate the brake drum (disc in my case) I drilled a 7/16" hole in some 1/2" stock and cut off four spacers to act as shoulders on the bolts. As a matter of interest, I also replaced the front studs with Nice S1060 wheel studs that are a long stud that needed about 1/2" to be cut off. They simply replace the standard TR stud. No machining, drilling etc. Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richard dooley Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Many thanks one and all. Job was quite easy on the bench with assembled hubs/halfshafts (really didn't fancy trying to split them) and with the peening ground away. Have used replacement screw-in studs as I wasn't totally happy with brake drum location with the reduced diameter of the press-in studs allowing some rotational movement of the drum. I appreciate that this would be taken upfirst time that I braked going forwards and would not potentially move until I braked going in reverse - but still wasn't happy! Have locked them with a tack of MIG instead of peening. Right on with the next job..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I dont know what press in studs you are on about but the correct ones are exactly the same diameter as the originals. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) The pull in studs from the rear of a later model car have a chamfered abutment where they stop against the back of the hub.Does the screw in type hub have a suitable matching countersink under the peeling or will they need machining?.....or should I be using front studs which don't seem to have the chamfer? Edited April 7, 2016 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 The pull in studs from the rear of a later model car have a chamfered abutment where they stop against the back of the hub. Does the screw in type hub have a suitable matching countersink under the peeling or will they need machining? .....or should I be using front studs which don't seem to have the chamfer? You have PM. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 I dont know what press in studs you are on about but the correct ones are exactly the same diameter as the originals. Stuart. The screw in studs have a location diameter greater than the thread diameter which screws down against the hub face and locate in the stud holes in the brake drum. I guess that drums for cars with pull in studs have holes the same diameter as the stud thread o/d so replacement studs will need a small spacer turning up to replicate the location. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Hi Andrew, the TR4 stud screws in from the outside and is then peened over on the inner face ( I think that is right) http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/stud-steel-wheel-100869.html?assoc=114153 The TR4A stud is inserted from inside to out. The hub is a plain hole and the stud has splines. When fully in the head of the stud stops it from pulling out. The splines stop it from rotating when tightening/undoing the nut. New studs simply go in the same hole as it is the splines that are sacrificed when fitted/removed n ot the hole. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/stud-wheel-rear-hub-132317.html?assoc=114286 As you state - the 4A rear studs are countersink headed; the front are pan headed. Normally one doesn't swap TR4 and 4A rear studs because the TR4 hole is threaded. If you did this then you would need to drill out the hub hole to take the splined stud and use a pan head stud (front). Roger Edited April 10, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.