TR4A1965 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hi, We are fiddling with the door gaps as we rebuild the TR4A and I was wondering if anyone has a definitive, or as close as gap measurement. (I know this may be a well worn topic - sorry) I heard that it should be 3/16ths in old money (4.7mm in new money). I saw an excellent post from Stuart where he had leaded the doors etc to get the gap just so, and it looks about 5mm. Any words of wisdom on this will help immeasurably - excuse the pun. Best wishes. Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 6mm ive seen Quoted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 You have to make a judgement depending on what paint and primer you will use as they will take up the gap a bit. 6mm in bare metal often can end up at 5mm when fully finished. This only applies to later cars as sidescreen cars need bigger gaps due to more movement in the panels. If you go down too tight then there is more chance of chipping edges. Its also all a bit academic as what you are aiming for is nice even gaps all round which will still be an improvement on the factory. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Thanks Stuart that helps. We are at 6mm at the moment with a prime coat on so I guess we are heading in the right direction. Best wishes. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Your gaps will move as you start driving anyway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I was advised to go for 4mm by the bodyshop when I rebuilt my Mini. Certainly nothing less if can be helped, as if they do close up a bit as the body settles, you won't take the paint off the edges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) Mini doesn't have the coachwork flare and swage on the wing and the "crease" running down the wings front to back, I think 4 mm gap will take your paint off when you open a Michelotti door against the front wing, Stuart will advise. Mick Richards Edited January 30, 2015 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barry911 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I agree: 4mm in bare will look too tight in paint. My 911's officially are 4.00, and being clever (!) I went to 3.75 as they looked so nice when the customers saw the cars in bare metal. The painters hated it, and asked I went to a full 5.00, which I can't quite bring myself to do. Nevertheless, at the factory there would have been fairly minimal paint. These days you might epoxy, then fill, knock that off, spray poly, knock most of that off, high build prime, and then a high solids paint. In short, a very much thicker paint system than the original. Therefore 6mm should look lovely once the painting is done (you'll be down to high fours, early fives anyway), and will still have enough gap there to allow for a bit of movement. As above, the key is to keep them all dead even, and to get the swage line running nicely. Oh yes, and make sure the hinges have no play as well: that's one that's really caught me out before. If I could only sort out posting pics, I'd put some up of various gaps (yes, I'm afraid I have photos of gaps: how sad is that?). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (yes, I'm afraid I have photos of gaps: how sad is that?). So have I The swage line problem at the front of the door edge can be got over Mick but its a trade secret Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barry911 Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) 4mm on a 911 shell I rebuilt. I re-skinned the door, fitted the rear quarter (wing) and new sills plus leaded the quarter to sill join, so it's all totally flexible as to what gap I give them. You can see even in bare metal they look tight, so no wonder the painter's don't like it. Nevertheless, 4mm is actually the quoted gap in the Porsche manuals, although even then they don't actually say that's bare metal. Since the reference is in the bodywork section, and they'd just detailed some heavy-weight metal-work, it's a reasonable assumption. What started as just under 6mm in metal on my last 4: sorry picture's don't really show them very well. I'm sure just under 6mm in bare would be a good shot: Triumph would have had little more than a third of the selling price of the above, and tight gaps are very expensive. Also, the TR's would have probably flexed more when new, so that would have been a factor as well. Edited February 2, 2015 by Barry911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barry911 Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Out of interest, these were the gaps when I started .... Edited February 2, 2015 by Barry911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 The gaps was never spot on in the first place if I see a car with them my alarm bells ring Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cbxman Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 You only have to look at the way the gaps open up at the top of the door when you lift the car on two post lift to see the need for good gaps. The gaps can close just as well as open when the chassis is being flexed over rough roads. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Out of interest, these were the gaps when I started .... Hey Barry, where does that cylindrical panel at the rear on your photo fit ? lol Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Out of interest, these were the gaps when I started .... Thats the easy way to get good gaps. Just slide the front and back halves together over new floors and you get what gaps you want and very little lead needed. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 The gaps was never spot on in the first place if I see a car with them my alarm bells ring I was flagged down while driving through Coventry by a guy who used to assemble TRs. He congratulated me on what he thought was my 4A's good unrestored condition. When I asked him why he said 'unrestored', he said "The door gaps - 1/8" in some places, 3/8" in others. Just the way we used to put 'em together in the factory. All these restored ones have even gaps all round." After a 6 year restoration, I wasn't sure whether I should feel complimented or insulted! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barry911 Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Hey Barry, where does that cylindrical panel at the rear on your photo fit ? lolMick Richards It really threw me for a while, it was nowhere in the parts book or manual. It actually turned out to be an ecologically aware Dalek. I released him into the wild. It was a beautiful sight. Edited February 3, 2015 by Barry911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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