Help! TR6 Boot Lid Stuck Shut :-(

[mikeyb]

Although not new to the Triumph scene, having just bought my first TR6, I'm slowly working my way through it's long list of little niggles.

Now I have a bigger one to add to the list - regardless of key position, the previously working boot lock push button will not open the boot.

 

There is some movement, more with the key in one position than the other but the catch will not release. Anyone have any tips or tricks to share? Or in worst case scenario if I have to get destructive, what's the least invasive solution? It is feasible to slip a hacksaw blade under the boot lid to cut the little bendy bar or would I have to resort to open heart surgery on the rear panel?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Mikey

[RobinTR6]

How about removing the rear deck panel you may then be able to get to the bolts holding the lid to the hinges and remove them , or perhaps remove the hinge bolts. Im hopeing but dont know whether with those removed you may be able to 'wiggle it out. Obviously if you remove the tank as well which can probably be done by a double jointed midget then you could get free access to the inside of the lock.

 

I would have thought tho that a decent locksmith would be able to 'Unlock 'it. One of the guys on here is a 'lock' man and made keys for my locks , he can probably suggest something. I'll see if I can get his details and post here.

 

Its Kevo_6

 

Good luck

Edited September 26, 2014 by RobinTR6

[mikeyb]

It's not the lock part that has jammed - the key still turns freely from locked to unlocked. It's the push button catch operation. As the key/locking mechanism is simple and normally rotate together, I suspect that they have come apart so that the key turns but lock tab does not, or perhaps more likely something is preventing the catch from de-latching.

 

Hoping for past experience guys :-)

[RogerH]

Hi Mike,

have you tried banging down on the lid with the ball of your hand when the key is turned?

 

Sometimes works on the 4A bonnet.

 

Roger

[stuart]

Its possibly the pin shaped end on the lock barrel has broken, If you remove the rear cockpit back panel trim (Phillips screws) then you can get your hands down either side of the tank to undo the hinges, then the front of the boot lid can be lifted enough to get at the lock section.You may then have to hacksaw through the catch leg screwed to the boot lid.

Stuart.

[Mark69]

Hi Mickey

Does the lock push inwards or is it jammed?. The barrel slides in and out via a hexagon shaped tube could this have twisted and jammed, key would still work. You need to wiggle outside of external lock if thats the case .added a pic.

[stuart]

If the pin section just visible on the L/hand piece in the picture has sheared off it will never push the flap across to release the lock.

Stuart.

[mikeyb]

The button and barrel do push in and out but not in as far as I would expect to actuate the catch. I too wondered about the pointy bit on the end.

[mikeyb]

I'm comforted by your advice Stuart that the boot hinges can be unscrewed with tank in situ, I wasn't relishing getting cutting gear out! Thanks :-)

Edited September 26, 2014 by mikeyb

[stuart]

You will need to be a bit of a gynaecologist with dextrous fingers and a1/4" socket drive.But it is do-able.

Stuart.

[mikeyb]

Good news! Before starting the internal strip down, I decided to have one more attempt from outside, and whacked the push button hard with a wooden mallet. Eureka, the catch sprung open! Luckily I had remembered which position was "unlocked"

 

Investigation has showed that the push button operation is fine, the pointy bit unbroken and the catch mechanism remains in one piece with no foreign objects jamming it.

 

What seems to be the trouble is despite being lubricated and seemingly free moving, the catch mechanism requires more force to spring it open than the push button/pointy bit can give it - even off the car. It will spring nicely when levered with a screwdriver. Not worked out why yet, maybe a bit of wear that I've not spotted yet. I'll look a bit more carefully when I've sorted out the wiring issues I've just discovered - possible new post pending!

 

Are the new ones currently available a quality item, or am I better off trying to fix the original?

 

Thanks to everyone for all your help.

Edited September 26, 2014 by mikeyb

[TR 2100]

Do you have a back-up pull cable on your bonnet?

Absolutely essential on a TR6.

 

AlanR

[mike barrett]

I fitted one of those to my TR6. Stupidly I used a long fixing bolt and that protruded towards the drivers side.....

Tried to open the bonnet when we were in Switzerland (to change the plugs again after another high pass...) and the bonnet safety catch got caught on the bolt and I could not open the bonnet! Took a long time with a bit of very stiff wire to free the catch!

Have now turned bolt round so there is nothing for the safety catch to catch on.....

 

mike

[mikeyb]

I'd previously bought one for the 4A (which is light years away from being on the road), need to have a rummage in the shed for it, along with the stiffer rear springs I'd picked up from Malvern a couple of years ago. I think the 4A parts stash is gonna get a good plundering!

[AarhusTr6]

Cancel - wrong post and can’t delete !

 

Edited December 9, 2023 by AarhusTr6

[Andy Moltu]

I had a boot lock that didn't open with a press of the button but a slap with the heel of my hand did the trick.