Drewmotty Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 I'm looking at fitting K&N 56-9327 filters to my 3a having run for many years (but not many miles) without any filters. Clearance to the inner wing is a bit tight with the long 4a manifold and the long H6 carbs but it looks like the cone shaped offering from K&N might just fit. Has anyone got this combination successfully fitted? Plan B might be to refurbish the scruffy HS6 carbs under the bench as I have seen pictures of this setup I think on Andrew Smith's Turk. Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 I've just had a pair of HS6's refurbed by Andrew Turner for £275 and fitted these with. A TR4A manifold and K&N cone filters , plus fittings from Moss. My car is a TR3 A and there is load of space with this set up plus much easier to tune than H6's plus I'd say I have bit more power and much more tractability, ie very good slow running but good at all speeds and no flat spots. I'm on standard needlesSM I think. I made up a copper fuel rail to minimise the number of rubber hose clips pls pm me if you wants some pics emailed Regards Bill G@ NB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 How many miles are you getting to the gallon? I an currently lucky to get 26 - 28 and this is going very carefully which is not much fun. Maybe it is my turn with A Turner.How do you tell the difference between HS6 and H6 Thanks Richard & H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) HS6 has a much more modern choke arrangement - the jet has a plastic base to it, & a flexible pipe at the bottom feeding the fuel to it. to operate the choke the whole jet + pipe is moved down. Also HS6's usualy have black plastic tops to the dashpot plungers. I get around 30 - 35 MPG standard tune (& very old) 1991 engine Bob. Edited September 14, 2014 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Richard - the HS6 is a more modern version of the H6 and has a shorter section between the dashpot and the manifold (hence the S), so they don't stick out so far from the engine. As Bob says, the jet arrangement and the float chambers are completely different and use more modern sealing methods. There are good illustrations of both types in the Moss catalogue for the Tr2-4. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 As regards fuel consumption with my HS6 set up I got 34mpg on the 500 mile round trip to Harrogate. This included mostly motorway driving at 65mph on the way south plus two runs at speed and high revs on the Harewood Hill Climb! Plus the car won " Car of the Show" at the IWE at Harrogate! We returned north very happy despite driving for 3 hours through a torrential tropical rainstorm to probably about 55mph The HS6 set up needs planning as if you have a bulkhead heater pipe this fouls the rear float chamber. I resited this heater bulkhead pipe when I built the car in anticipation of eventually fitting HS6's Hope this helps Bill G@ NB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 There are a number of ways around the issue of the HS6 float chamber clashing with the heater connection at the bulkhead. One is to use the TR4 heater hose arrangement, another is to fabricate a bulkhead union with a bent outlet pipe that misses the float chamber. I went for the latter, let me know if you would like a photo of the arrangement. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Float chamber does not have to be a problem, I simply routed the rubber heater hose between float chamber & air filter. No problems so far - 1 year on. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Hi Bob That seems to work for you on you TR3 or TR4 manifold. I'm on a TR4 A manifold which is more problematic Thanks Billg@ NB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boggie Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 HS6 has a much more modern choke arrangement - the jet has a plastic base to it, & a flexible pipe at the bottom feeding the fuel to it. to operate the choke the whole jet + pipe is moved down. Also HS6's usualy have black plastic tops to the dashpot plungers. I get around 30 - 35 MPG standard tune (& very old) 1991 engine Bob. Very interesting Bob, I spent ages trying to set the chokes up properly on my rebuilt H6 SUs. Even after all that tinkering I am still not happy with the choke operation: On the first 'stop' the choke only slightly lifts the Perhaps I should consider swapping them out for HS6 SUs. I am pretty sure I have one in the workshop too so I would only need to find a good second hand matching variant.... With Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Will the cone type filters accept these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200962949913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Yes I agree the float chamber of HS6 is exactly in front of the heater water connector when the 4A inlet manifold is used. I hacked a larger hole in the bulkhead on the LH side of the bulkhead where the other connector is and fitted a TR4/5/6 double water connector. Not pretty but functional. The only arse is that the extra heater hoses rising to the heater is horribly close to the scuttle drain tube when fitted - I managed to unknowingly knock mine off, discovered it though on the way to the International Wet Weekend this year. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for the food for thought guys. It looks like an HS6 conversion may be the next project. Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 I fitted the heater bulkhead connection( drivers side onRHD ) on the horizontal surface next to the solenoid where it easily mated to the heater valve pipe work , I did all the plumbing at the back of the dash with soldered domestic copper piping plus used a Revington type 4 KW heater in the upper passenger footwell. No shortage of heat for the Cain or demisting. I was reluctant to reinstall the ropey smiths heater up in the top of the dash because if anything went wrong with it it's a nightmare to fix. Regards. Bill G@ NB As regards needles I am on SM which I believe are ideal for a 4 cyl on HS6's as I am very pleased with performance(100 mph no problem) and 34mpg on long fast runs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 SM on mine too. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 More info from the heady days of Cox & Buckles. More info from the heady days of Cox & Buckles. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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