grumpy2 Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 thinking seriously of buying my first TR6 and looked at 3 in the last couple of days, all at the bottom end of the market. Naturally they all have issues. I have about £10k to spend and plan on another £2k over the winter to improve the car to a reliable and '5 yard' standard (ie it looks great from 5 yards) Of the three I've seen, one is yellow (!!!!! wifey hates the colour) and on carbs but it has fantastic bodywork and is very straight. There are minor paint blemishes, the interior (dash and crash pads in particular) are poor and the hood any tyres need replacing. The second is a much nicer dark blue, has several paint imperfections and a little surface rust. The engine and injection seem very good but the clutch and brakes need work . Again the dash and crash pads need changing. The third is at a dealer and looks lovely in red with wire wheels, drives fantastically but smells of petrol and bounces everywhere due to duff rear shocks. It needs one seat cover (ripped backrest) and has some badly cracked paintwork on the panel where the hood rests behind the driver. So to my questions - is this what I should expect for my £10k?, could I do better?, if not which might be the best to pursue of the above? thanks G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi Grumpy2 there are plenty of other grumpy's on this forum. along with a plethora of wit and wisdom. It would be almost impossible for anyone to answer your questions sensibly without knowing more about your expectations, what you want, what you are are capable of doing yourself, what you want to use the car for (eg long distance touring, shows and events.......?), or more importantly - seeing the cars. Most of the problems are hidden, rust is the enemy. Trim and spannering requirements are easy and quick compared to chassis and bodywork jobs. Buy the best you can afford. As I put in an earlier thread, do the research, download the buyer beware details from the appropriate section on the TR Register website, go along to your local; group meetings, they should be able to help avoid costly errors. Regards Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Welcome to the forum, Grumpy2! Yup, many of the questions you'll have have probably been asked, but this group loves new blood and through a combination of the (quite good) search bar and direct questions, you'll learn plenty. I'm with Ian -- rust on both body and frame are the biggest enemies. Everything else (well, almost everything else) is peanuts by comparison. The Vintage Triumph Register in the US has a TR6 buyers guide on their website. I think it's available to all, not just VTR members. If you can't see this, send me a private message... http://vintagetriumphregister.org/tr6/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kcsun Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks Ian I was just about to compose what you have just said. I would also check out history, UK or imported car (steering wheel position does not dictate UK car!!), why are the owners selling (they may not give a truthful answer but great to listen to) how long they have owned the car, what works did they do while they owned the car. Are they TR register members? do they post? you can then search their posts for problems they may have had with the car As usual - BUYER BEWARE. Best of luck with your purchase, I am sure you will find the car of your dreams and with your wives permission be allowed it!! kc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi Ian Thanks for the reply, I know my way around spanners, Ive carried out two full restorations on MGBs and converted one to V8 in the process. The TR range are new to me and if I'm honest I'm surprised at the prices of them, the £10K TR6 looks like a £5K MGB, supply and demand I guess. I do localish road runs (100 miles max) and the odd show or two, but I'm not interested in concours or similar. I think what I'm trying to ask is 'am I really only going to get a car this rough for £10k?' G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Greetings O grumpy one - have you a name? Can't help with car selection but when you get your prized possession we will be here to give any help needed. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 On these cars one thing matters above all else, the state of the chassis. Then comes the floor pans, then the plenum. Seats, dashboards etc can easily be fixed or lived with. Get the chassis wrong and you will want another £10k to fix it. Take someone who knows where to look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IanR Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 On these cars one thing matters above all else, the state of the chassis. Then comes the floor pans, then the plenum. Seats, dashboards etc can easily be fixed or lived with. Get the chassis wrong and you will want another £10k to fix it. Take someone who knows where to look. Yes OK but repairing the plenum panel is a shed load more difficult than repairing the floor pans and when I last checked there is no plenum replacement.Further, is if the plenum panel needs doing there is much work generally to do on the bulkhead as well . Just not to be confused I refer to the plenum panel as behind the bulkhead not the plenum intake tube Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Hi folks, been to my mini club tonight. Just to confirm that all 3 cars looked at so far have no significant issues with rust. Chassis are all good one has some plating the others don't, bodily the worst has some surface rust on the lower body but is still very solid. Having worked with MGs and Minis for 20 plus years I know rust! Tr6 on wheeler dealers now - inspiration there perhaps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Hi Grumpy the best advice I can give is to take some one along with you who knows the TR6 inside out - you should find someone in your local group who can help. Check the panel gaps, particularly the doors from top to bottom, and if you can, jack the car up and check the gaps again when one corner is off the ground. Prices being same for all three cars - Pick the one with least rust............. If originality is important, pick the most unmolested version and renovate to suit, if condition is important check out the price of replacements (trim etc) Do you want to use the car whilst you use it, ie a running restoration/renovation, or are you happy to have the car "in pieces" for a long time, pick whichever suits... Colour - least important bit for me - but my wife would say differently and matrimonial harmony/negotiations are considered. Personal choice - that would be yours...........for your reasons Regards Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 On TV programme 'Wheeler Dealer' yesterday they bought a 75 Pi car for 6k, which had a nice fresh Red paint job, good mechanicals, just needing upholstery and a new soft top and a petrol tank leak fixing (which was very strange) So never pay the asking price...always start 2k lower than the asking and work your way up in small steps! So a 10k car should be perfect, needing no major work at all! As a TR6 owner for over 40 years I wish my early CP Car had had Carbs instead of the fussy Pi system that has required so much attention over the years, so go for one with Carbs is my advice. Here's my best advice, Before checking for rust on the Chassis the Sill end caps, and the rear cross hanger that suspends the Diff where the two bolts go through...they can crack around the bolts! First ask to check for End Float! ...by sticking a large Screwdriver behind the Crank Pulley leavering against the Round Cross bar, both back and forwards...if it goes Bonk and Bonk! dont bother with the rust checks, go home! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Grumpy2 You seem familiar. Are you a refugee from Stag Owners Club? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 I am indeed Bought one today, thanks fir all the above advice, after a week of travelling miles and miles I found the ideal car for me just 2 miles from home. Pics will follow, collecting tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Grumpy2 The red TR with wire wheels wasn't by any chance in Birmingham was it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 no, it was at a well known dealer near Warrington. Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Congrats Gary Look forward to seeing photos Welcome to all that is the joy of owning a 6 Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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