Crawfie Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 We'll after a 5 month honeymoon period, the TR has decided to push my buttons !! Took the car out for a run today and instantly I could feel that she is not running properly and hesitant to go when I put my foot down on the accelerator. Best way to describe this is a loss of power. Going up a hill was a nightmare and there's a lot of them were I live. I have a few days off soon and I would like to have her running properly by the weekend. So I respectfully ask the good people of this forum for advice and guidance. I know my way around a car ( owning a lot of minis helped there !!) but I'm no expert . Where do I start looking please?? I am idling issues as she ticks over at 1100rpm When I pull the choke out, the tick over reduces to @900 rpm. There is a exhaust smell in the cockpit ( roof down) Using Shell petrol with Castrol Valvemaster 1971 TR6 USA import Converted to twin HS6 carbs which appear new. I have not touched anything in the engine bay !! Any help with this would be much appreciated. The good weather is coming ! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) Steve, So its gone wrong while unused in the garage? - the tickover rpm gone up while standing? And you think it might be running over-rich? If so it maybe fuel in a float chamber - or both - has evaporated during standing and the float(s) have not risen enough to control the fuel level. So fuel will be dribbling out of the jet(s) rather than being sucked out - it goes rich. Try thumping the f/cs or a sharp tap, but not too hard. See if that does it. If a float sticks well down the fuel can even overflow the f/c- check those pipes. SU's choke mechanism can stick on giving a rich mixture: check they are both returning the jet to normal position. Removing the dome and piston from a carb will show if the jet is not flush ( choke mechanism not returning it flush) and if the fuel level is right - not overflowing. But a good thump on the f/c s might do the trick. How long was it standing - long enogh for the fuel to go badly 'off' ? Peter Edited May 13, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Steve In addition to what Peter has already said, can the pistons inside the dash pots move up and down unhindered (they maybe need a good clean) and is there sufficient and equal oil in the piston damper? Good luck Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Hold on chaps, the OP didn't say the car had been standing unused, he said that he hasn't had any problems for 6 months (of ownership). Of course it might have been stood but he didn't say so. This doesn't mean that the advice given so far is wrong, just that I'm not sure the descrption of the problem is adequate. The thing I don't get is that the revs go down when the choke is pulled. To the OP. How does the car start, does it need choke? Has the idle speed always been high? Does the problem occur when the car is cold or hot or doesn't it matter? How does it run on the flat? On hills, is the 'lack of power' a general lack of oomph or is it misfiring. To be honest, if it wasn't for the high idle speed, I would be looking at the ignition. Misfire under load = HT breakdown. If it was an A Series, what would you be looking at? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Also check the vacuum pipe to the dissy for damage, or fell off. cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Thanks for the replies so far. Much appreciated. To answer some of your questions.... 1. I don't understand why when I pull the choke out, the revs went down. But it did !! I have gad this idle problem since I got the car. 2.I noticed that she was not not running right on my last trip @ week ago. I suppose that I was hoping the problem would disappear yesterday , but it is worse. 3.seems to pull ok on the flat. When going uphill the lack of power is noticeable. 4.Minis- when this happened , it was ignition. I'll start looking at the car today Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I would have made sure the fuel is fresh before anything else is done, in my experience fuel that is more than 3-4 months old can create problems, specially if a few liters is left in a large tank? In my own TR6 with strombergs old fuel leads to these symptoms: difficult start, rough running, high idle or no idle and lumpy running with low power.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 PM for you, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) Oh if its gradually gone off - not gone wrong while standing in the garage between one drive and the next - then the first suspect is points closed up. Plastic points and no grease...recipe for poor running, even failing to run. Reset gap add a small smear of grease to the cam. Peter Edited May 14, 2014 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Thanks for the advice . Only just filled the car up with Shell petrol a couple of weeks ago. I'm out with the car now. Fingers crossed !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Paul , PM for you. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 We'll a quick check revealed two problems that need sorting. 2 ht leads literally came off in my hand. Loose connections on the lead ends dizzied cap end. Dizzie cap knackered. They will be replaced. Next newbie question.... Best place to get ignition parts, spark plugs ( ngk , champion ?) ht leads etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Hi steve any of the regular suppliers should be good for such basics. there were dodgy rotor arms about but that was a while ago i thought. I've had good dealing with AccuSpark if you want to go pointless? ( i've had their electronic ignition, cap, rotor, and spark plugs all cheap and ok) presently have KV85 Magnecor leads, lovely but expensive and probably unnecessary ! hth steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 Get your ignition parts from Martin http://www.distributordoctor.com/ There is a lot of rubbish about especially in Lucas green boxes. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 OK ......Took the TR for a 100m blitz around Dartmoor today. The old girl appears to have here mojo back Changed the plugs to NGK BP6ES with a 25thou gap. The old ones were Champion N9Ys and in a bad way. Black and sooty.Massive gap on the old plugs. Changed the dizzie cap, and HT leads. Checked the points etc. all ok. I need to get a red rotor arm from the place Stuart recommended. Carbs gave been tuned up and the excessive idle speed was down to a shortened choke cable. The choke was on all the time. Thanks for all the advice and guidance........again. Next question......I have an electric fan. Where I live there are loads of hills (Princetown is the highest village in England-apparently). My temp gauge creeps up to 3/4 . It never reaches the red though . This is worrying !!! Or is this how Kenlowes work ?? On a recent post I asked how to reset this thing as I moved the dial when cleaning. Not sure if I've got it set right !! Could I re instate the old fan as well as having the Kenlowe or is this OTT ?. Not used to temp gauges going near to the red. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Reset the Kenlowe control whilst stationary with the engine running. Watch the temperature gauge and when it is just above the normal then turn the control knob until the fan cuts in then lock it off in that position. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 OK will do !! Thanks Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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