Peter James Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Hi New to the forum and the TR6, bought a 1970 CP just 2 weeks ago and love the car, it drove perfectly for approx 300 miles and based on the history file has been cherished by the previous owners. However, just yesterday I took it for a drive and noticed it was running a bit lumpy but all 6 Cyls were working. Decided it might need a blast, so took it on the motorway and apart from a few splutters performed quite well at high speeds(80-90) Upon exiting the motorway at the end of the slip road the car started to lose power at when stationery was running on what feels like 5 possibly 4 cylinders. Managed to drive the 2 miles back to home and now need to get some mechanical assistance(I'm pretty clueless) my question is what should I be asking my local garage to look out for? Ie I would like some TR knowledge to impart on them if you get my meaning. Any help would be much appreciated as I still love the car but disappointed especially considering it was recently serviced(allegedly ) Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ok, Assume its an injected car. Remove the keep plates holding injectors in. Start her up and in turn remove one injector at a time, they just pull out , and hold over a jar or something similar. You should see a regular fine cone shaped spray of petrol. Do all six, one at a time and report back. It's often a blocked or stuck injector. Before you do that just check points are set to 15 thou, and the dizzy cap, rotor all seem ok. Btw welcome. Don't worry list of hands on help here and most of us have learnt hoe to keep our babes going without professional help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) What Robin said, plus You can feel each fuel line (make sure they are all separated from each other so you don't get vibration passing fom one to the next) pulsing as the fuel is pushed through - the non working ones will not pulse or will be notably weaker. Then check those injectors first If one of them isn't spraying a cone shaped charge of petrol invert it and tap the body of the injector lightly with the handle of a screwdriver until it (most likely) frees up and starts spraying. Put it quickly back in place - you might see a small explosion of petrol from the cylinder as you do so - don't worry it won't catch fire and it will get sucked back into place by the vacuum Hopefully it will sort it all out - maybe something dodgy in the fuel if you let the tank run down If they don't come online get some new ones from Neil Ferguson Good luck and welcome Graze Edited March 30, 2014 by Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Pull the injectors out 1 by 1 whist the engine is running - if injecting on all 6 fine if not remove and blow out the offending one with an air line. (If it's ratting then rebuild or exchange). If all six are injecting then look at the other causes - in terms of the injection a split metering unit diaphragm and all the other causes of misfires that aren't injection related come into play. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I hae a similar problem on number 1 cyclinger, i have tried a working injector and what happens is nothing, but if i pull the needle at the end a lot of ful;e shoots out but then it is much more sporadic - why would there be pressure but not enought to work a working injector - one whcih went back on no 2 and carried on fine.....i have undone the one way vale at the metering unit, a lot of fule joined me suddenly (no, the car was off and the battery detahced). the valve was there but cant tell why not enough pressure. Other cylinders seem to be fine with pulses on all other lines and no 2 fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Harvey Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 This type of fault is not always down to the injectors happened to me once and I found it was simply a plug stopped working. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 welcome to the forum:-) I have a cp car and for quite long time I strugle with that tipe of symtoms! It all came down to a intermiten faulty coil...when it warms up sometimes it fails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter James Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks Guys, really appreciate the prompt replies, I'm going to call my mechanic friend and advise him to carry out what you have suggested. I will update you in a few days Once again many thanks Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 You dont have to be clueless to do the basic checks!! If you get a good workshop manual or even a haynes manual,and a good basic set of tools it could save you loads in the long run!! Remove and clean,regap,or replace the spark plugs one by one so you dont mix up the leads! Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank as low levels can cause problems whilst being driven on the early cars! Check points gap,rotor,dist cap,"The center sprung contact can stick up",leads,coil,wiring to coil,even the engine earth lead! If it is a carb car check the float chambers for sticking float or needle! Also any inline fuel filters for blockages! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi Pete most of us have had those symptoms, so they are pretty standard for a 40 year old car! trying to KISS....... Its either Ignition or Fuel related Since ignition is very standard for the age of car i suggest you/your mechanic start there - check / replace points/plugs/rotor/dist cap/ coil all very cheaply done If ignition is not the cause move on to fuel. If its a PI car?, then problem is likely to be in the Metering Unit or the Injectors. Metering Unit is a specialist item, best reconditioned for £100 by Neil raven Smith Injectors can also be reconditioned if old ( very likely) for £60 the set. However you/your mechanic can check fuel filters, and general state of the system by emptying out an injector into a white plastic container The fuel should be clear but likely will contain very small black contamination, which is either filters of the rubber lines being eaten by unleaded. replace filters and rubber fuel lines, cheap. Once you've done the cheap stuff report back ! HTH steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brucer Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 To Steve's list I would add condenser. Mine failed the other and I was amazed how badly the car was effected it would hardly run. Good luck Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter James Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 First and foremost, many thanks to all the replies. A friend of mine followed the advised checks and we found that fuel wasn't getting to the 2nd injector, the line into it was blocked and then quickly unblocked with an airline This appears to have solved the problem and I'm back on all 6 cylinders once more The fast responses to my initial concern makes me happy to have joined the register, the advice has already paid for my annual subs! Thanks once again but I must apologises in advance because I'm sure to be asking more help in the future Cheers Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 To Steve's list I would add condenser. Mine failed the other and I was amazed how badly the car was effected it would hardly run. Good luck Bruce good point Bruce, Condenser failure can cause many hours of frustration! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Great news Peter. Although any news today has to be taken with a pinch of Salt, so lets see if its still running on 6 tomorrow :-) steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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