Blue cedar Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 I've just bought back my TR6 back RBH47H having owned it between 1985 and 1993. It's only completed 17,000 miles since. Lots of familiar memories have come flooding back, in particular a scent of petrol. It's much stronger now. My family , including my children have each had an attempt to locate the origin of the smell, but can not agree. Of course having removed the boot trim to gain access. I have read threads about leaks and also the ethanol creeping through pipes. The pipework is a mixture of braided , aluminium rigid and black rubber. My thinking is that I start a fresh with new flexible pipework attaching the pump, tank and rigid pipework., etc . Could I be guided as to the most successful pipework and any success stories. The pump is not the upgrade I had fitted to the chassis, but a smaller equivalent fitted inside the boot near to where the previous original pump was sited. Many thanks for any direction. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 I definitely recommend replacing all the flexible pipes from the tank forwards to the MU Standard but modern rubber fuel pipe is rated to cope with unleaded, and can be had in a rating to hold the 100psi. I bought 'by the meter' pipe from my local car spares shop, and a new braided line for the MU. This greatly reduced the petrol smell. Good luck ! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hi Bin there got the tee shirt and as Guy says I am now qualified! Check in this order: 1 All connections / fixings for blatant looseness. 2 Steel pipe from PRV to MU for weeping (How do I know that ) 3 ALL rubber / flexible hoses to be R9 --- no substitute 4 weeping tank "talc" or like Wheeler Dealers pressure and see. 5,sprinkle talc all over 6 look for the unlikely Bonne chance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Yup And Petes once stinky boot is no longer To add to Peters point 1, dont forget to check fuel drain plug. R9 spec avavilable here , they also sell off e bay http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/petrol--diesel-fuel-hose-inc-hoses-for-bio-fuels-89-c.asp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-6mm-5-16-R9-FUEL-INJECTION-HOSE-RUBBER-PIPE-SAEJ30R9-/271092734786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1e62db42 Cheers GUY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Thank you for your reply. May I ask for clarification, please ? -The steel pipe (point 2). Only the interior cabin and boot smell.......so could you confirm ..... underneath the car along the chassis and inside the boot ? - If I sprinkle talc everywhere what will be the indicator of a weep ? I was wondering if there is a known issue with the filter seal ? I assume there is a rubber seal, not too dis simular to an oil filter seal ? I take it your petrol smell has totally gone or ? Many thanks for taking the time to reply Cheers Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Many thanks Guy. Your TR is the same colour as mine. superb ! Cheer Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Many thanks Guy. Your TR is the same colour as mine. superb ! Cheer Peter Yeah Best colour. Point 2, Check the unions onto both ends of Prv, i have come across seemingly ok metal tubing that had a fuel seepage through rust on the pipe under the car. That was replaced with copper pipe from Prv to Mu Talc will go a brown colour on exposure to petrol. Your fuel pre filter i assume is a CAV type looks like a spin on. These do have a rubber seal, but also i believe squash copper washers, all would need replacement. I personaly would dump it and fit a Bullet type filter , not cheap, but doesnt smell or leak. http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=148 Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Many thanks Guy. The cork gasket on the tank sender.....is that ok or should an upgrade other than cork, be advised. Out of courtesy, I will add a post when all is replaced. Cheers Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Many thanks Guy. The cork gasket on the tank sender.....is that ok or should an upgrade other than cork, be advised. Out of courtesy, I will add a post when all is replaced. Cheers Peter Peter, I havent come across anythig other than a cork gasket. Dont see any problems with cork ones available currently from normal suppliers. I would replace it while your at it. As Prefect said go through everything and check if you want to solve it, replace all rubber pipes with R9 spec with new fuel clips, check tank outlet too. As winter is fast approaching a good time to sort. I believe Prefect now has a non smelly boot and cabin. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Goldthorpe Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 Check the tank as well. My smell was not due to any pipework or outlet issues, it was pinholes from corrosion along the bottom of the tank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Is it neat petrol or are you sucking in fumes via the boot seal in which case it'll be a mix of fuel and exhaust gasses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Mine had three smelly points: Tank drain plug loose. Rubber PRV return hose not R9 and main fuel line along the chassis near the back weeped. I now have a nice ally fuel tank new cunifer fuel main line from PRV to front braided R9 flex to MU. No smells whilst driving but if left for two weeks with the boot shut I can get just a wiff I think that's as good as it gets? You asked how you tell if talc has petrol on it, well it goes from white to grey. Also the point about the boot seal is spot on make sure the rubber joint is at top not at the back! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 The filler cap vents through a hole in the seal to exit under the outer rim. I've found this gives a petrol smell around the boot lid and I think the vapour can then run along the gap between the lid and the wing. Mine has a gap in the boot seal which I think lets vapour into the boot. I did try an alternative vent arrangement from the filler pipe, lost the smell behind my head but not in the boot. More work needed. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Many thanks to all. You have given me the answer so long as I take off each suggestion. So it is realistic not to accept any smell. ie there are owners without Petrol smells ? Cheers Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha206 Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Another source (as I discovered on this forum) of fumes was via the holes for the numberplate lights - mine is on the rear bumper but my rear panel is from a late car so has the holes for the lights; temporary fix was a couple of bits of duct tape over the holes and the smell in the boot disappeared. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Do I use Ptf tape on the threads and olive rings that attached pipework to the fuel tank ? Cheers Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 ok. update. Having cleaned the outer side fuel tank in situ repeatedly over the last few day. I have wiped the area around the tank where the far left pipe goes into the tank only to find I have removed a strong smell of petrol. I suspect this threaded piece of the tank is brazed on when built.The paint has come off and it is gold around that area. To this effect I wonder if this join may have cracked. I've considered using, Foster's POR15 fuel tank repair kit or paste. Also, there is a firm in Ropley, Hants called I&M Autobody Repairs Ltd who specialise in repaiing tanks by welding etc... The inside of the tank is nice and silvery. Any clever thoughts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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