Crap quality head stud let go!

[Guest ntc]

Where is TS2 ?

[Alec Pringle]

" Then we found that despite me ordering (and paying for) a set of brand new, too quality studs, Revington had sent one second hand stud!!! It has been cleaned up and repainted but shows signs of corrosion right at the top of the UNC thread causing a slight waist which if it snapped there would mean there was nothing to get hold of to remove it. "

 

I must be getting old and losing the plot, or someone else is . . . . . what sort of prannock sends a set of new head studs but including one used one ? The idea beggars belief - let alone a stud that's corroded to a slight waist. Strewth. What's the scrap stillage for ? As for it's been cleaned up and repainted . . . . . why the devil, should anyone wish to paint a stud, what in heaven's name is that meant to achieve ?

 

The above is just my opinion of course, but no prizes for guessing what I'd do to some blighter who tried to build me an engine with new studs and slipped a used one in . . . . . painted or not. There's more than one convenient location for a knobbly cam.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

 

 

[Dave Ashworth]

Hi Everyone,

 

Speaking studs, I've had a lot of trouble with rear wheel studs on my TR4. These are supposed to be peened over at the back to hold them in. Last night with car on lift, I took the rear wheels off to investigate a back axle problem and there was a stud missing. It wasn't in the wheel nut, and my mate and I stood there bemused for a while, looking into where this stood could have gone too. After looking inside the hub, we eventually found it in the wheel, and discovered that it has been welded on from the back, and the weld had given way.

 

Apart from losing that stud, another has gone soft on the threads, not the first time I've had this problem and I'm only hand tightening the nuts with a spider brace. This is the third stud that has gone soft.

 

The story began some three years ago, when I purchased the car. There was a stud missing. I obtained a new stud from a good supplier and took the car into my local classic specialist who took out the half shaft and did the job properly and peened the stood over. The first time I put my new wheel nut on it, the stud completely sheared in two - as soft a butter, and in fact, it looked like there was hardly any metal in the interior.

 

Since last night, I have a soft stud on the offside, by soft I mean the thread is stripping. I also have one on the nearside, plus the stood that the weld gave way on, so I've essentially only got two studs on the one side and so half shafts have to come out again and more new studs inserted. I'm getting fed up with this.

 

Now, I"m not that strong, in fact, I'm a bit of weakling, and I'm only tightening these by hand with the spider. I've never stripped a wheel stud in over 40 years of messing with cars. Am I really applying too much pressure or are this studs no good? I know that's a difficult question to answer.

 

Can anyone please recommend what studs to buy and where from. I'll buy a full set and get this job done again, and properly.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

All the best.

 

Dave.

[stuart]

Dave you would be better off going to the later type of stud that goes through from behind. It will require the hub drilling out very slightly but it is the only sure fire cure.I believe I may have a similar problem on my solid axle 4a as I can feel one of the studs not tightening properly. I do think the new ones arent the best steel and when removing the old ones you do have to be very careful that you dont damage the threads. Not a a good idea welding either with the heat and balance problems.I was discussing this problem with TR4 Tony the other day and he has had them fail on the road and now has the later type fitted. (Definitely recommended for rallying!)

Stuart.

[boggie]

Dave,

 

You would probably fair better if you posted your wheel stud question in it's own new topic rather than my ongoing thread about head studs. People with the knowledge you need are more likely to spot your question rather than skipping past mine as they have already read it. Also anyone in the future with the same problem searching the forum for answers will hopefully be able to find the resolution through your thread too.

 

However, I had a similar problem on my 66 Landy when the nuts rusted to the stud and undoing them wound the peened end out, damaging the thread. I ended up replacing the peened type studs with later splined type that were pressed in from behind. I had to drill out the old thread first and then simply wound in the splined stud with an old wheel nut. Problem you might have is that a lot of replacement parts for our TRs are rubbish. Poor quality steel and cut, rather than hot rolled threads are common issues causing studs to snap or threads to strip....

 

Cheers,

B

Edited July 14, 2013 by boggie

[JJC]

With apologies to Boggie for hijacking this thread - the reason I asked the question about painting a stud was because I expected Alec's response and wanted to see it. For goodness sake let's get on with doing something about parts quality. It's with Chairman Chris who's consulting Group Leaders. So for all Group Leaders out there please please give Chris some support and get on with it. JJC

(Sorry for the rant)

[boggie]

I was wondering that too as Chris didn't reply to my quality register suggestion via email...

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Boggie,

 

Following on from yesterdays discussion I ordered one of these sets last night from Amazon. Seems to cover all the same sizes as the Rigid and Snap on offerings and about half the price. I've used ERA equipment before and found it quite acceptable.

 

 

[url=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Comprehensive-Screw-Extractor-Drill/dp/

 

Bryan,

 

Not a bad idea and should work, of course the hole doesn't have to be dead central to get the fluted remover to hammer into it but bearing in mind the end of the broken stud will be...broken ie not flat this method you propose could be useful to prevent the drill wandering about like a drunk !

 

Mick Richards

Two Issues

1 The engineer I was apprenticed to in the mechanical salvage department, who was ex RFC, ex Railton, ex RR experimental, made me make some stud removers from tool steel square bar, the type you use for lathe tools. Simple job just grind a long taper on the end of the 4 side faces. Drill a hole, bang it in, clamp if possible using drill press or clamp, turn out with a suitable tap wrench. If possible get the apprentice to tap the end of the extractor as you turn the tap wrench. Damn, they worked a treat in those Rolls Royce jet engine broken casing studs, that only apprentices were supposed to remove! A bit of heat was also used if needed.

 

 

2 Just had an email from the maker of the head studs for TR 4 cyl engines. His complaint is that there are some cheap **** out there getting him a bad name.

 

He says : make sure there is a pressure release slot in the course threaded end (a v slot in the thread) and check that the items are not BENT. Bending is an issue when the studs are heat treated and the v slot is costly to add.

 

His email content:

106960 TR2>4A cylinder head stud

On a £2000-00 engine rebuild can you afford to be a “Cheapskate”?

Does the Customer care if the studs are made to

1) Correct material Spec.?

2) Straight & True?

3) made to the OE Drawing?

4) have a rolled thread which is stronger than a cut thread?

These studs are over 9” long

We have found that when they have been heat treated to the correct tensile strength ,there is a tendency for the stud to warp or Bow.

We therefore introduce a “2nd Op.” to “true” them where necessary.

The other important thing is that the MY studs have the pressure relief slot in the block end of the stud as per the originally made items, this reduces the chance of the block cracking in use.

 

Over to you spares buyers......

 

Cheers

Peter W

[AlanT]

This is a really good way to tell a good stud.

 

My memory says that the pressure relief groove is not a V but a square form.

But this is just memory. Could be wrong.

 

The bit problem is oil in the hole and then you screw into it and the oil cant get out.