jbenajes Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Hello, I wish to change the original four-blade fan in myTR3A for a “tropical” six-blade fan I had idling around the garage during the winter and spring. Is it possible to do it straight with everything in the engine bay? Do I need to remove some part? Is there any caveat? Any risk? I’ll appreciate any recommendation. Thanks. Jesús Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 It needs balancing before you change them over. Do you have an overheating problem. I used to have one until I had the radiator recored and upgraded. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbenajes Posted June 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Thanks for your comments, Richard. Yes, my car overheated the last time I drove it in the city on a hot day. Aside from no electrical fan, I have kept all the original cooling elements, but they have been reconditioned. I hope to solve the problem with a six-blade fan. Jesús Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbenajes Posted June 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hello, Planning the removal of the cooling fan with the engine in the engine bay, it seems easier to be done from underneath the car, where no other elements are in the way. Can somebody confirm if this procedure is more convenient? Thanks. Jesús Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Last time i changes one on a tr3a from a friend, we removed the apron and radiator. In my recollection theres not enough room between rad and fan to use a spanner. Better do it right than damaged your freshly recored radiator. And when you have things apart, why not add a electrical fan in front? I have enough cooling with my original fan, but on a trip through Monaco and Nice with high temps and one big traffic jam during 15 Miles, the tr2 got hot.. At such moments you appreciate haring an elec fan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 (edited) Last time i changes one on a tr3a from a friend, we removed the apron and radiator. In my recollection theres not enough room between rad and fan to use a spanner. Better do it right than damaged your freshly recored radiator. And when you have things apart, why not add a electrical fan in front? I have enough cooling with my original fan, but on a trip through Monaco and Nice with high temps and one big traffic jam during 15 Miles, the tr2 got hot.. At such moments you appreciate haring an elec fan. On a 3A, you can put the fan (as a pusher) in front of the rad - if you want to maintain the original fan. You can also opt for a slim line puller fan behind the rad (like I did). On a TR2, I think that it's -from an aesthetical point of view- preferable to put the fan behind the rad. My car has a Pacet fan under the bonnet: http://www.pacet.co.uk/radiatiorfans.php Menno Edited June 23, 2013 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 On a 3A, you can put the fan (as a pusher) in front of the rad - if you want to maintain the original fan. You can also opt for a slim line puller fan behind the rad (like I did). On a TR2, I think that it's -from an aesthetical point of view- preferable to put the fan behind the rad. My car has a Pacet fan under the bonnet: http://www.pacet.co.uk/radiatiorfans.php Menno hi, I would always use both, just to be sure. mechanical will turn as long the engine turns. Electrical has disappointed me before.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi Menno, Quote "On a TR2, I think that it's -from an aesthetical point of view- preferable to put the fan behind the rad." I think you will find it has nothing to do with aesthetics but more to do with lack of room between the rear mounted Mazak grill and he radiator. The radiator is very close to the grill which is mounted on tabs at the extreme end of he aperture. NB: Never ever start the engine with the study brackets at the top of the rasdiator to the inner wing removed. You will eat your radiator, don't ask me how I know. It is 40 years ago and to be fair I knew no better and was trying to fit a replacement fan belt in a hurry. Ouchy! Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 I've got a narrow belt conversion and Moss crank damper because I was too tight to buy a Racestorations one from Rod. I wish I had now because it might do better with the 3,200 vibe. The result is that my only fan is a Revotec on the back of the rad. Works well in this blistering summer, but I haven't done a Rome traffic jam yet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tomfpurves Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Dear Jesus I know how hot it can get in Valencia and suggest you opt for maximum cooling aids possible. I know Salamanca sold a fair number of TRs in Spain in period but the traffic was not what it is today. Best Regards Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Fitting the cardboard guide to a 3A makes an enormous difference, but all old cars without a header tank do tend to blow water out, even boil. There are recommendations on here for fitting one, probably from Stuart, and that's what I'd do if I lived somewhere hot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi Menno, Quote "On a TR2, I think that it's -from an aesthetical point of view- preferable to put the fan behind the rad." I think you will find it has nothing to do with aesthetics but more to do with lack of room between the rear mounted Mazak grill and he radiator. The radiator is very close to the grill which is mounted on tabs at the extreme end of he aperture. NB: Never ever start the engine with the study brackets at the top of the rasdiator to the inner wing removed. You will eat your radiator, don't ask me how I know. It is 40 years ago and to be fair I knew no better and was trying to fit a replacement fan belt in a hurry. Ouchy! Rgds Rod Hi Rod, the alu radiators offered on Ebay are thinner than the original ones, this would make an electrical in front possible ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbenajes Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I have been able to remove the cooling fan by working from underneath the car. It has been a difficult and time consuming task (about two hours)… but it can be done. It has been necessary to undo the bolts at the radiator bottom, to move it forward for getting some more space for removing the four fan bolts (if they had been a little shorter, this job would not have been necessary). Now I only have to install the six-blade fan and keep fingers crossed during the summer… Jesus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Before you put the radiator back in place and replace the bolts at the radiator bottom, you should read this first: http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/radbolts.htm This is your chance! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbenajes Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Thanks Menno. I certainly will do the improvement. I am not sure however, if the point of the bolt is easily reached with a screwdriver when the front apron is in its place. Jesús Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 Hi Menno, Just had a look at that site with the rads. Looks good. What size did you fit on the Tr3? thanks, Yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 Just done about 40 miles in slow moving, dithering, stop start traffic and finished it off crawling up a steep hill behind a C1. I have no standard fan, the cardboard guide and a Revotec fan, which kept the temp to 85c through it all, but it was working harder than normal. I'm guessing outside temp is about 30c. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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