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jbenajes

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About jbenajes

  • Birthday 09/02/1959

Profile Information

  • Location
    Valencia. Spain
  • Cars Owned:
    Classic Cars Restoration
    Triumph sport cars

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  1. Dirk, The thread in “the other forum” can be of help (long but worth going through it): http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?81211-Back-to-TR3-Sidescreens It was very useful for me when I fully rebuilt my sidecreens. Jesús
  2. For increasing resolution in the distance measurement (to distinguish distance less than the whole wheel circumference, i.e. around 2 meters), one can still glue more than one magnet and cheat the computer by inputting the actual wheel circumference divided by the number of magnets. I posted one photo in my first comment (last input in page 1 of thread). I have only one unit installed in my TR3A to check for actual velocity. Jesús
  3. qim, They can display many parameters: actual speed, distance (daily trip and total), average speed, maximum speed, drive time, etc. It depends on the type of computer. The basis for the computing is the number of wheel turns that the system records (per time). Here you need to calibrate the computer by entering the circumference of the wheel. The error in distance and actual speed is the same as the error you make entering this circumference. Important is to use a computer with the correct speed range. Most of them just indicate up to 99.9 (mph or kph - too low in the second case
  4. A very cheap solution is to fit bicycle computers. You only need to glue a magnet on one of the rear brake drums and the pick-up sensor on the back plate, and then to route one wire to the dashboard (see photos). With only one ensemble magnet-sensor you can run as many computers as you wish (a diode must be wired for any additional computer). I have used this for rallying with a great success. Jesús
  5. Several years ago, I purchased from Vehicle Wiring Products in the UK, whose shipping costs to Spain were reasonable at that time. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/ Jesús
  6. Yes. The channels keep the vinyl in place, even though it is wise to glue the fabric to the metal, as well. I did a fully restoration of my sidescreens from scratch (including drawing, cutting and sewing the covers) and have collected some useful information from the web. Of course, I would be happy to share it with you. Jesús
  7. Then thanks, Stuart, for the effort in writing. I will add this information to my collection. Jesús
  8. Great that you posted the complete sequence, Stuart. It is more detailed than mine. Jesús
  9. Zbigmak, My experience was that the installation of the dashboard is not easy unless a given sequence is followed (at least so did it work for me). I wrote the different steps, but unfortunately in Spanish. I can translate the text if you need it, but will not be able to do it before a couple of days. Jesus
  10. In the attached pdf file you can read the lenghts of the pipes (in cm, sorry - to convert into inches,divide by 2.54). I do not remember where I got this information (maybe I meaured them by myself, and then they would correspond to a TR3A and Girling system). Jesus Triumph TR3A brake pipe set.pdf
  11. Peter, The hardest task is sewing the front edge of the screen between the two sides of the vinyl cover. When I recovered my sidescreens, I brought them to a sail maker who was able to sew through the material. However the sewing machine did not reach up to the corners, and I had to finish the job manually. Hence, in the limit the sewing of the whole front edge can be done manually, drilling first the holes in the cobex and later threading across the vinyl with a suitable needle. This manual procedure is perhaps even recommendable in case that you do not find a trustworthy and skil
  12. Dave, You may find the tape at shops like Leroy&Merlin, BricoMart or BricoDepot. If you fail to source it, I can send one roll to you. Jesús
  13. Dave, Self-amalgamating tape is very common here in Spain (you may search for “cinta autovulcanizante”), see for instance: http://www.mocap.com.es/cinta-autovulcanizante-x-treme.html http://e-ferreteria.es/otras-cintas-adhesivas/11167-cinta-caucho-autoamalgamante-6-7x19x0-76.html http://es.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesivos-sellantes-y-cintas/cintas/cintas-de-autoamalgamar/ In fact, this is what I used I renewed the bushings and the new seals in the kit lasted a couple of days, and perished by themselves, even before putting the car on its wheels. Jesus
  14. Thank you all for your interesting and useful comments. I will use the standard steel pistons and change the fluid. I used initially DOT5.1 and will stick to it. This all started because some jerky braking at low speed. When restoring the TR3A I used the original discs (rotors) and some NOS pads. I cleaned the calipers, the chromed pistons and put new seals. Now I plan to install new discs, new green-stuff pads and the said pistons with a new seal kit. Hope to get a better and uniform braking. Jesus
  15. Thanks Roger for your advice. Really, I drive the TR3A very, very little. At the ast rates, in 10 years I will have drive less than 3000 miles. With climatic conditions in this region, probably I will never drive in rain or on wet roads. So, if the main issue is splash water onto the calipers, those standard pistons would last forever. I am more concerned for the long periods of stillness. Jesús
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