Door Seals

[Revolution]

Hello everyone

 

Have fitted new furflex seals to the doors of my TR4A but this has resulted in a poor door shut with the seal preventing the door shutting flush to the bodywork

 

Have tried fitting just the rubber seal(as supplied by Rimmers) but the edge of the seal which fits into the channel is not wide enough to be gripped by the channel and falls out

 

Has anyone had similar problems? Is there a solution?

 

Appreciate any help you can give me

 

Thank you, Nick

[pfenlon]

I had problems with the seals on my TR4, this uses 2 seals a rubber one and a separate furflex one.

 

Initially the Moss rubbers fitted but the doors wouldn't close easily

 

Bought rubbers from the roadster factory, they fitted better as the profile is slightly smaller, but if fitted the "wrong"way round, the door closed much easier.

 

then tried to fit the furflex, doors again hard to close.

 

Bought some cotton type of finisher, removed all the inner metal grippers and glued it onto the door seal lip. now OK but did beat the lip with a lump hammer and a piece of wood

 

al the way round which also helps a lot. It worked for me, good luck.

[AlanT]

I had removed all the channels except the bits on the backlight and screen-frame.

 

I used a Moss one-piece seal. Worked OK but dorr were tight.

I modified the seal and now the doors are fine.

 

You can fit a one-piece seal with the channels in place.

 

I bought some Rimmers seals for the bits where I still have channel. They fit fine. But only in the original channel.

The replacement channel I got from Rimmer at the same time is too big.

 

Al.

[Jean-Marie Raedts]

Zee My precieus post: "Door deals TR4A" of 29 Apr 2010. Gold Luck!

Jean-Marie

[TR 2100]

Not much consolation, but don't blame the suppliers.

 

I have NOS Stanpart furflex (draught excluder) and

separate rubber seals - EXACTLY the same problem.

I give the door a good swing rather than a short hard

push, and push the door rather than the handle.

 

AlanR

Edited March 28, 2013 by TR 2100

[Revolution]

Thanks for all your replies....I'll have a look at the old threads

I think the outer rubber seals from Rimmers don't fit the original channels so i'll probably keep with the furflex and get the best door shut I can

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Not much consolation, but don't blame the suppliers.

 

I have NOS Stanpart furflex (draught excluder) and

separate rubber seals - EXACTLY the same problem.

I give the door a good swing rather than a short hard

push, and push the door rather than the handle.

 

AlanR

Mick,

 

I had exactly this issue to solve on a friend's SP250 that was refurbished using repro combination furflex and rubber seals identical to the TR6 type.

 

I fixed it with a good spraying of aerosol silicone (Lidl £3.00 or the plumbers merchant about £7.00) on the seal and door contact face.

You need to respray it every month or so but it stops the 'stand back and throw' door closing technique required with replacement combination seals. And remember on a Dart door frame you cannot take the lump hammer to the seal attachment edge as it is plastic/fibreglass construction. In the old days the replacement combination seal used on MG MIdget etc had a smaller rubber seal - that was the business for the tighter fitting TR doors and was available in 50 metre rolls from COH Baines. - only in black or red though

 

Give the silicone spray a try, could be the saviour for you and your door catch slam plates.

 

Peter W

 

PS Question to car repairers and restorers of Triumph TRs - where do you get the door seals you use that actually work?

 

Buying from the usual spares suppliers will often mean that parts trialling has been done by the customers on the their cars and the feed back, when negative, highlighted an issue with a product. Unfortunately. when you buy the door seals for your TR and are asked 'what size rubber seal do you want?' you have no idea and go with the standard size offered that generally has worked before. Gone also are the days of me standing behind a counter and shewing the customer the possible sizes and types, then cutting the desired length from a 50 m roll. (very helpful for the Surrey Top TR5 owner who wanted the continuous combination seal that was 8 metres long - rather than the 3 bits a TR4A wants because he removes the Surrey rear section every summer)

 

This happened with all style of boot, bonnet, spare wheel as well as door seals. Seals today I suspect are all precut and packaged, so if you think a TR2/3 boot seal profile will work better on your TR4/5 boot aperture you could be stuffed, as the correct length TR2/3 boot seal is a foot shorter than a TR4/5.

Edited March 30, 2013 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[RogerH]

Hi Nick,

Last year I was also sorting my door seals out.

The rubber seal from Moss was very difficult to fit with the door insitu.

The foot of the seal that fits inside the channel was as soft as the protruding rubber and wouldn't stay put run in the channel as it was being fed around the forward area.

Eventually when I had them installed the doors refused to close, even with significant pressure being exerted.

 

However the seals from TRF were a different story. The foot of the seal is quite a hard rubber and did stay put. The protruding rubber was slightly softer than the Moss item.

Closing the door was still 'interesting' but less problematic than the previous offering.

 

Roger

[Revolution]

Roger

I'm sticking with the furflex seal at the moment as I have a reasonable door shut line and the door doesn't require too much force to shut!

The area of the door which just bulges a bit when the door is closed is , unsurprisingly, where the furflex fits along the top of the triangular strengthening plate at the B post - indentation in the door cards

Contemplating whether to trim the furflex across the strengthening plate or live with it as it make look "naf" after I've hacked at it

I'll also try the silicone spray as suggested above

 

Nick