Rear suspension questions

[foster461]

With the tub finally off the frame I can now get a clear view of the rear end. It all looks pretty straightforward but I have a few questions as usual..

 

1. On the passenger side there are some shims between the spring and the axle. There are no shims on the driver side. I wonder what purpose these serve, is that to level the axle and if I am replacing the rear springs what is the procedure for determining how many shims to insert ?. I dont see these shims in the parts book or service manual.

 

2. Is the rear axle locating kit a good thing to do for a road car or should I stick with the standard bushes ?

 

3. I plan to replace the springs, all bushes, buffers, have the shocks rebuilt. Anything else I should be planning for while visiting the rear suspension ?

 

[Menno van Rij]

This shim-matter is discussed extensively a few years back when I was restoring my TR. These shims on the passenger side are used as a compensation: they push the spring down. Thus as a result sits the driver's side a little higher whent he car is unloaded. With the driver behind the wheel, the car is level again. Afaik, there's no mentioning of these shims in the literature. And make sure that you return the shims at the right place (side).

 

I used blue Poly bushes from Revington. Some people think the ride is harsh. I haven't experienced any other: never drove my car with the old suspension.

 

It's a good idea to weld extra strenght to the lever base plate and I inserted and extra pipe inside the connection between the spring base (or how is it called in English) and the chassis

 

 

When you reinstall the arm levers, be sure to use allen bolts. When you replace the body, the distance between the bolt head and the body is very, very tight. Hardly impossible to reach with a proper spanner. An allen key will fit between the body and bolt head.

[ianc]

Inserting a tube within the tube, as shown in Menno's photo, is a very sensible idea as it has been known for the tube to fracture on an old chassis!

The mounting brackets for the shock absorbers should be reinforced on the INSIDE of the chassis (i.e. on the differential side, not the outside), welding each reinforcement strip all the way down the bracket and the vertical face of the chassis to the very bottom of the rail.

Ian Cornish

[foster461]

Thanks for the info. This thread from last year discussed this but I was getting confused between springs with extra leaves and what I'm calling shims on the passenger side. I think I've got it now though so just need to be sure that the extra shims are on the passenger side..

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=31230entry229157

 

Stan

Edited September 18, 2012 by foster461

[vivdownunder]

Stan, it's just a simple 3/8" lowering block that looks confusing because it was made from two short sections of 3/16" spring material.

 

An average weight, single occupant driver was supposed to hop in and level the car, but taking a passenger put you back to square one !.

 

Silly idea that was deleted during production.

 

Viv.

[stuart]

While your at it the "Locating kit" (Basically a couple of big washers and the bush eye tube ground down slightly) for the front of the rear spring is a good idea to stop axle movement.

Stuart.

[Guest ntc]

While your at it the "Locating kit" (Basically a couple of big washers and the bush eye tube ground down slightly) for the front of the rear spring is a good idea to stop axle movement.

Stuart.

 

 

Stuart

Got mine and not impressed so will get the alternative

[stuart]

Stuart

Got mine and not impressed so will get the alternative

 

Why? and which?

Stuart.

[Guest ntc]

Why? and which?

Stuart.

 

 

Cutting down in most cases a worn out bush appeals not one jot

[Ian Vincent]

I used the Revington rear axle locating kit - simple, relatively cheap and will probably be effective. (I haven't had a chance to try it out yet).

 

They also do a chassis reinforcing kit which consists of plates and fittings to weld to the chassis in all the known weak spots.

 

Rgds Ian

[foster461]

I used the Revington rear axle locating kit - simple, relatively cheap and will probably be effective. (I haven't had a chance to try it out yet).

 

They also do a chassis reinforcing kit which consists of plates and fittings to weld to the chassis in all the known weak spots.

 

Rgds Ian

 

 

Ian, is this the 4 washers that Revington sell for around GBP 12 ?

 

Do these just work with the standard rubber silentbloc or is there a special bush needed for the front ?

 

also wonder about the rear, rubber or poly or ?? and is there a locating kit for the rear too or is that just a front thing ?

 

Stan

[Ian Vincent]

Yes Stan,

 

It is the four washer thing. They can be used with the standard rubber silentbloc but I used poly bushes. I bought a complete polybush kit - part no. SPK10CK.

 

As far as I know, there isn't a locating kit for the rear, only for the front. The rear is just two half cotton reel bushes per pin, i.e 8 in total.

 

I bought a complete kit from Revington: springs, rear shock absorber connectors, front spring locating kit and stainless steel pins.

 

Rgds Ian

[foster461]

Yes Stan,

 

It is the four washer thing. They can be used with the standard rubber silentbloc but I used poly bushes. I bought a complete polybush kit - part no. SPK10CK.

 

As far as I know, there isn't a locating kit for the rear, only for the front. The rear is just two half cotton reel bushes per pin, i.e 8 in total.

 

I bought a complete kit from Revington: springs, rear shock absorber connectors, front spring locating kit and stainless steel pins.

 

Rgds Ian

 

 

Thanks Ian.

 

Here is an example of a kit for the rear of the spring

 

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=76454

 

Stan

[Guest ntc]

Glue the teeth in Stan

[foster461]

Glue the teeth in Stan

 

 

I did wonder about that.. How about the standard rubber on the front (with the locating kit) and using poly on the rear ?. Would

that combination also result in a harsh ride ?

 

Stan

[stuart]

A lot less harsh than solid bushing the shackle end. Personally I think I would go for SuperPro blue ones all round with the locating kit.

Stuart.

[Menno van Rij]

I'm very happy with the blue bushes. And according to long term users, they last longer than the original black ones.

 

Menno

[roybr]

Slightly off topic, but two of the leaf clips on the rear springs on my TR are loose. I think when the springs are originally made these clips are heated to red then hammered tight, is this the way to re-tighten them? At the mo' I've tapped in some steel wedges to stop them rattling about.

Thanks.

[foster461]

Slightly off topic, but two of the leaf clips on the rear springs on my TR are loose. I think when the springs are originally made these clips are heated to red then hammered tight, is this the way to re-tighten them? At the mo' I've tapped in some steel wedges to stop them rattling about.

Thanks.

 

 

I was just researching some other rear suspension info and noticed that the manual includes instructions for taking the rear spring apart by prying open the clips and then offers this advice for re-assembly:

 

"Tap the clips over with a hammer and an anvil so that they grip the blades firmly. Failure to ensure complete

tightness will result in "knocks" when the car is in use."

 

Stan

[roybr]

Thanks Stan, I think "tap" is a bit of an understatement , but I'll have another go with a pair of lump hammers, bit difficult to get as good swing when they are in situ.

[Don Elliott]

As I was tightening up on the nuts holding the rear axle "inverted" U attachments on a late TR3A I restored, I noticed that the rear axle was free to slide about 1/4" forwards and backwards. If I had tightened it all up the rear axle might have been 1/2" off position - not straight 90 degrees across the frame.

 

So I took it all apart and found that the round "locating bumps" were badly worn. I MIG welded what was missing, finished them as the should be and completed the assembly correctly. Now that rear axle is 90 degrees with the TR centerline.

[Dick]

The only thing that I would add...is to make sure that when you get the front eye pins out.....and they sometimes can be very stuck....that when you re assemble use plenty of copper grease or similar to give you the best chance of getting them out later with the body on.

 

If using the old ones make sure that the tapped hole for the extractor tool is ok by running a tap down it and then fill with Waxoil to avoid corrosion.

 

These can be sods to get out even with the body off.

 

Dick.

[Don Elliott]

Stan - I took the body off my 1958 TR3A and didn't have to remove those front shackle bolts. They had been rusted into place for 30 years (1958 to 1988) but because the body was off, I could remove the rear springs and put them back again when I completed the re-assembly. It was 10 years later in 2000 when I broke a rear spring that I had to loosen all the body bolts (stainless) and jack up the rear end about 15 inches to remove the broken leaf springs from those bolts without having to remove the bolts.

 

So for now you don't need to try to get then out. If you can get them out easily, good for you, and use the advice above - but there is an alternative that you can "have up your sleeve" in about 10 years - or maybe never.

[foster461]

Stan - I took the body off my 1958 TR3A and didn't have to remove those front shackle bolts. They had been rusted into place for 30 years (1958 to 1988) but because the body was off, I could remove the rear springs and put them back again when I completed the re-assembly. It was 10 years later in 2000 when I broke a rear spring that I had to loosen all the body bolts (stainless) and jack up the rear end about 15 inches to remove the broken leaf springs from those bolts without having to remove the bolts.

 

So for now you don't need to try to get then out. If you can get them out easily, good for you, and use the advice above - but there is an alternative that you can "have up your sleeve" in about 10 years - or maybe never.

 

 

Understood Don. Having removed the body once I have less fear about having to raise it or remove it in the future. I do however have 6 months at my disposal so if the buggers will come out at all now would be the time to do it so that in future it wont be such a struggle.

 

Stan

[foster461]

Yes Stan,

 

It is the four washer thing. They can be used with the standard rubber silentbloc but I used poly bushes. I bought a complete polybush kit - part no. SPK10CK.

 

As far as I know, there isn't a locating kit for the rear, only for the front. The rear is just two half cotton reel bushes per pin, i.e 8 in total.

 

I bought a complete kit from Revington: springs, rear shock absorber connectors, front spring locating kit and stainless steel pins.

 

Rgds Ian

 

 

The folks at Revington tell me that the SS front pins are no longer available and they are looking for another supplier with no guarantee that this part will ever be available in the future. They are offering a galvanized steel pin as an alternative.

 

Stan