alfietom Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Sorry, Me again! Last night I actually made it to my first TR Register (Cornwall Group) Run. Thanks for a warm welcome from everyone. It was a great night and I made it home with lights! At our first stop I noticed a puddle of oil under the car but just it was a drip coming from the filter housing. So thought I would see to it later especially after all the running issues I've had recently. Anyway I got home and had a quick look under the bonnet and saw oil everywhere, forced out of the rocker cover bolts, gasket, dipstick hole and sump gasket etc. Yesterday I fitted a Brand New PCV valve which after checking appears to have an amount of 'Stiction' before operating. I can only presume that this is causing the problem......any ideas? Can anybody give me an indication of the pressure required to open the PCV valve? Can you run the car with the inlet blocked off and a simple oil trap system? its just that surely the engine was designed to run with the PCV system. Thanks again Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) Simon You can run without the PCV but you will need to remove the plug in the block under the fuel pump and replace it with a snorkel breather tube. Also you need a breather type oil filler cap. There are other methods to go for non forced breathing. It sounds as though your PCV is allowing the crankcase to pressurise when its proper function I think is to create negative pressure in the crankcase and bleed the gases gently into the inlet. You either have a dud PCV or blocked pipes it seems. Edited September 5, 2012 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Simon I presume you have the PCV connected the right way round as its the manifold depression that opens the valve.You can run an open breather system just by running a suitable size hose from the rocker cover breather tube out and down backwards under the car or fit the catch tank arrangement that I showed you fitted to mine. You could always just bring it over and I will sort it out. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) I wouldn't make too much sorrows. It's a matter of design of Triumph cars. They are made to keep 80 percent of oil inside to lube the engine and spill 20 percent outside to prevent corrosion. Edited September 5, 2012 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 I wouldn't make too much sorrows. Its a matter of design of Triumph cars. They are made to keep 80 percent of oil inside to lube the engine and spill 20 percent outside to prevent corrosion. Mark An old wifes tale I for one will not put up with an oil leak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 A tad more then 'marking its territory' then?! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Mark An old wifes tale I for one will not put up with an oil leak I try to achieve this goal every year before the season with a complete engine rebuild but never had luck to have a dry engine, gearbox or diff. It's designed to leak. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alfietom Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Just had the car on a ramp. It seems that the new PCV valve was sticking causing the engine to find it weakest point,This seems to have been the timing chain cover, plus a very slight weep from the front crankshaft oil seal and the mother of all leaks from the rear crankshaft oil seal! It really is pouring out everywhere and probably to bad to drive until fixed. Bugger! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Mark An old wifes tale I for one will not put up with an oil leak So how have you rectified all the various leaks, especially the rear oil seal? I have just fitted the Racetorations kit (oil tank/outlet from crankcase & rocker cover) to get better breathing & hopefully less pressure & still the damn rear oil seal is leaking! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 So how have you rectified all the various leaks, especially the rear oil seal? I have just fitted the Racetorations kit (oil tank/outlet from crankcase & rocker cover) to get better breathing & hopefully less pressure & still the damn rear oil seal is leaking! Unfortunately once they start to leak no amount of extra breathing is going to stop it. It will need the seal doing. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Unfortunately once they start to leak no amount of extra breathing is going to stop it. It will need the seal doing. Stuart. Back to the good old rear oil seal problem then! So many comments in the past about removing scrolls, different type seal etc. & often to no avail, apparently. As a man who knows, just what is the best thing to do to sort the awful thing out? Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 If it is assembled correctly the original seal will do the job (FWIW my 4a doesnt leak a drop from the original rear main it just leaks from everywhere else ) Then there is Christians (Mad Marx) seal conversion http://www.tr4-racing.de/eng/madmarx-racing.html which by all accounts is a very good solution and doesnt require any crank machining. Or there is the Land Rover type rear seal which does require very careful machining to remove the scroll section from the crank and has been known to be a little hit and miss sometimes. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 If it is assembled correctly the original seal will do the job (FWIW my 4a doesnt leak a drop from the original rear main it just leaks from everywhere else ) Then there is Christians (Mad Marx) seal conversion http://www.tr4-racin...arx-racing.html which by all accounts is a very good solution and doesnt require any crank machining. Or there is the Land Rover type rear seal which does require very careful machining to remove the scroll section from the crank and has been known to be a little hit and miss sometimes. Stuart. I assume in all cases it is an engine out/strip job? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 I assume in all cases it is an engine out/strip job? YES! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Just how bad does the rear oil seal leak need to get before engine out & rectification? Will the oil eventually get into the clutch? I get a small puddle on the floor after a run (marking its territory!). Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david johnson Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 On a different note nice to see you and your car. Looks like your son may be interested in the cars which is encouraging. Regards David. Powder blue TR3A, now with slightly sooty front. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 (edited) I get a small puddle on the floor after a run (marking its territory!). Cheers. Then you are one of the lucky ones who hasn't a worn scroll seal. Yes, these seals to wear out when not centered very properly. And then it starts leaking badly. The gap between a centered new scroll seal to the crank is 0.095mm. You can imagine that every tad of misalignment in combination with crank flexing will wear the scroll to the point where it starts to leak bad. And now think about how many people do the centering on the crank without using a tool. That is the reason why so many cars leak there. And you can't find new ones anymore and the used ones are worn in most cases....70 percent of the scrolls I've reworked were ready for the trash bin. That was the start to make new scrolls. Edited September 8, 2012 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alfietom Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) On a different note nice to see you and your car. Looks like your son may be interested in the cars which is encouraging. Regards David. Powder blue TR3A, now with slightly sooty front. Hi John, Great to meet you all on Tuesday and sorry for the sooty front. The long and short of it is that I had a pressurised engine which eventually forced past the rear oil seal and left me with a rather large puddle of oil. The leak was far too bad to enable normal driving so its engine out time. We have since discovered after carrying out a leak test that the head gasket that was replced 4 weeks ago has also failed across no 3 & 4 cylinders,.....the list goes on! As for my Son, Alfie, he loves the cars and sees my 4a as his when I finally croak! Edited September 7, 2012 by alfietom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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