Jump to content

alfietom

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    151
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About alfietom

  • Birthday 11/17/1965

Profile Information

  • Location
    Truro, Cornwall
  • Cars Owned:
    Cycling, Cycling, Cycling
    Family Life and everything that goes with it.
    ...and my Triumph TR4a
    Oh, and Cycling!!

Recent Profile Visitors

286 profile views
  1. I have a spare 'Mad Marx' Aluminium Housing and the required alignment fitting tool. Happy to let it gor for £65 You will require the Viton seal which is available from TR Shop London or direct from Mad Marx for approx £35
  2. Hi Andrew, It looks like the 6 sections of rubber secured with Jubilee clips that I need.....approx. 30mm long Can you remember what you used? or is it a recognised part? Thanks Simon
  3. When fitting a K&N airfilter to a standard Lucas injection system I am having issues with clearance due to the throttle linkage being in the way. Has anybody else come across this problem and how did you get over it?
  4. Back in the early 80's in my mid teens I used to work at a petrol station on the A46 near Old Sodbury on the Avon Gloucestershire border. The garage was called Roman Camp Garage and had a workshop round the back of it. The Workshops were owned and run by a chap from Hawkesbury Upton called Dougie Dawe. Dougie was quite well known in the local area as a Rally enthusiast. I seem to remember Dougie purchasing 3 Works TR8's that were ex Tony Pond cars? I can still recall the amazing noise these cars made each evening as he pulled out and accelerated hard off down the A46. You could still hear the noise from 2 miles away on a quiet evening in the summer. I have done a few Google searches to see if it brought anything up, but didnt find a sausage. Does anybody have any recollection of the garage (the petrol station is still there) Dougie Dawe or even where the cars are now? I finally progressed (after numerous Spitfires and GT6's) to TR ownership....albeit not an 8!!
  5. Hi Paul, I had exactly the same problem ever since completeing the Resto (see my previous postings)....2 miles and Pop, 2 more Miles Pop, 300 Yards Pop....of all the problems, engine rebuilds, fuel lines, etc etc etc, this was the hardest to rectify. I tried everything, even a new catch and it still didnt solve it. In the end the bonnet springy thing needed an amount of packing under the bonnet springy thing as it was not locating paralel to the catch. I'll take some pics of it and post later or tomorrow. It is now sorted and doesnt pop anymore! Also make sure you have the rubber wedges fitted to the sides to stop sideways movement of the bonnet One word of warning as everybody has said....make sure you have a secondary method of release, I suffered the bonnet stuck down phenomenom, and it aint pretty!! Cheers for now, Simon
  6. Finally found a reliable cure for oil leaks from crank case pressure......Leave the oil cap off when driving. I did on the last TR Club run not a drop out the bottom of the engine, I wont say what the bonnet looks like now but at least it wont rust!
  7. I have suffered speedo bounce for a while so replaced the cable - this made no difference at all, until I 'fiddled' with the section behind the dash and found that putting a sharp bend in the cable actually stopped the bounce. This was Ok until I experienced a nasty squealing noise and the whole lot stopped completley! It appeared that a peice about an inch long had broken from the speedo end of the cable inner. Ok so last Friday I got a new cable, attached the G/box end to a drill and the other to the speedo - Totally fine no bounce Took the angle drive out from the G/box - attached that to the cable and the drill to the angle drive - all perfect - no bounce Connected it all back up at both ends - took it for a drive and all was perfect for about 5 miles, then the squealling noise started again until the speedo stopped completley. Today I undid the knurled nut behind the speedo and withdrew the cable inner from the outer only to find the cable in perfect condition at both ends - Checked the angle drive to find it was damaged on the end....so fitted a new angle drive.....so now we have a new angle drive, a new cable and still no speedo....I undid the cable from the back of the speedo and it was not turning... Not really sure where to go now?
  8. Hi Percy, How did you get on with your Speedo woes and what did you find in the end? I have suffered speedo bounce for a while so replaced the cable - this made no difference at all, until I 'fiddled' with the section behind the dash and found that putting a sharp bend in the cable actually stopped the bounce. This was Ok until I experienced a nasty squealing noise and the whole lot stopped completley! It appeared that a peice about an inch long had broken from the speedo end of the cable inner. Ok so last Friday I got a new cable, attached the G/box end to a drill and the other to the speedo - Totally fine no bounce Took the angle drive out from the G/box - attached that to the cable and the drill to the angle drive - all perfect - no bounce Connected it all back up at both ends - took it for a drive and all was perfect for about 5 miles, then the squealling noise started again until the speedo stopped completley. Today I undid the knurled nut behind the speedo and withdrew the cable inner from the outer only to find the cable in perfect condition at both ends!? Not really sure where to go now?
  9. I've had the same problem but resulting in bad speedo bounce with the needle bouncing around by 15mph + or - The weird thing is that to overcome this I have had to loosen the lock nut assembly at the back of the speedo slightly (while driving) then put a very sharp bend in the cable immediatley behind the speedo,this will cure the bounce straight awayuntil the cable then straightens back. It seems that my (new) cable is short by about 5 mm and doesnt quite have the length to engage fully into the back of the speedo. I know thw speedo is ok as I removed it and span it up on a drill.....no bounce then so has to be the cable. Maybe its just a poor quality part,,,not really sure
  10. Hi Peter, Just an observation from your pictures, I know my knowledge is pretty basic but I think you may have to rethink the positioning of your Dynamo
  11. Have now repaired / replaced / cleaned lots of connections and wires over the car and gained a couple of volts. Even after doing this when the lights, blower etc are all on at once the Red charge light is still glowing so for the sake of 50 quid i'll put a new alternator on to see if that cures it.
  12. Have now repaired / replaced / cleaned lots of connections and wires over the car and gained a couple of volts. Even after doing this when the lights, blower etc are all on at once the Red charge light is still glowing so for the sake of 50 quid i'll put a new alternator on to see if that cures it.
  13. Thanks so much for the offer Stuart, The wifes away at a Garden show in Malvern so i'm home alone with a 10 and 12 year old this weekend, plus I have 1200 bricks to lay out ready for the 'Bricky' on Monday but at present i'm working my way through all the connections and earth straps etc. I think this may be the problem, I have gained about 1.5 volts so far and still have a way to go. I'll keep you informed with how I get on. Thanks again Simon
  14. I'm getting: 14.1 volts at the battery with nothing running 13.8 Volts at the battery with lights, Blower etc running 11.2 Volts at the actual lights with the engine running. Revving the engine makes no difference I have noticed that the Ammeter never rises past the '0' but happily drops into the minus when lights, blower, indicators etc are on.
  15. Just checked it - Battery voltage is a steady 14.14 volts doesn't really change at all with any engine revs.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.