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Stupid pins in the door handles


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Two hours, two whole bl@@dy hours I spent trying to fit the window winder, door handle, springs and those ####ing pins. Had a scotch and gave the whole thing some thought..there must be an easier way...

 

This is the mod that I eventually came up with.

 

I drilled and tapped the square shafts with a 5mm thread.

 

Winder1.jpg

 

 

I then drilled and countersunk a hole in the door handle and winder handle to take a countersunk (cheesehead) screws.

 

Those stupid springs were thrown in the bin and I used two plastic cups (as opposed to one), behind the handle which gave the correct spacing.

 

Winder3.JPG

 

I can now remove and refit my handles in less than 10 seconds.....oh the joy of it..... :D

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Two hours, two whole bl@@dy hours I spent trying to fit the window winder, door handle, springs and those ####ing pins. Had a scotch and gave the whole thing some thought..there must be an easier way...

 

This is the mod that I eventually came up with.

 

I drilled and tapped the square shafts with a 5mm thread.

 

Winder1.jpg

 

 

I then drilled and countersunk a hole in the door handle and winder handle to take a countersunk (cheesehead) screws.

 

Those stupid springs were thrown in the bin and I used two plastic cups (as opposed to one), behind the handle which gave the correct spacing.

 

Winder3.JPG

 

I can now remove and refit my handles in less than 10 seconds.....oh the joy of it..... :D

 

Cheers

 

Tony

 

 

Most of us have lived that same experience Tony so we sympathize. One easy way to deal with this is to take a length of metal wire coathanger, the style that dry cleaners often use, and saw most of the way through it after measuring the length of the standard pin. Now holding the parts in place with one hand use the other to shove the end of the coat hanger into the hole and bend it a few times to break it off where you sawed through it. The extra control you get from holding a 9 inch wire instead of a half inch pin makes all the difference.

 

Stan

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Good mod Tony. Bet they don't feel as though they're about to come off in your hand like the originals. Even with the springs and cups they still wobble about as the holes for the pins elongate.

 

Mike

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Stan, I tried that and the other ways and no matter which way you go, you have to fight those damn springs.

 

Mike, there is no wobble at all and they certainly feel solid now, I'm well pleased.

 

Tony

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I found that mod on my 6's handles when I bought it,saves a lot of hassle,and doesnt look out of place.

They have only been off once since ive had it though!!

And they feel nice and tight,not about to fall off at any point.

I found this post about the same problem.

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=16869&st=0&p=113759entry113759

Edited by TR6pi.uk150bhp
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Hi Tony,

can't be done on the 4/4A as they have a different shape but very clever thinking for the 6. Is there an Oz name for a 'bodger' :lol::lol:

On my 4A those pins are fairly easy to fit, thankfully.

I fitted electric motors to my windows so I don't know if the handles are loose or not.

 

What other 'inventions' have you done.

 

Happy New (inventing) Year

 

Roger

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Hi Tony

How and where do you drill the holes in the handles, that open the doors? My handles (TR6 1970) has a shape, that in my opinion makes it impossible without spoiling the design.

 

Happy new new year

Tage

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If you want to use the original pin - long handled needle nose pliers help.

 

My alternative suggestion is to use a length of gas welding rod (same diameter as the pin) - almost cut through it at one end the same length as the pin. Push that into the hole & then flex the rod & it will snap where you made the cut & it's in place!

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A slightly non original but good solution to leave the handles looking original is to mark the position of the winder/door handles on the rear of the door card and then using a hole cutter (by hand not powered) that is just bigger than the plastic surround carefully remove a circle of the backing board without disturbing the foam and vinyl. Then just make a small "X" cut through the foam and vinyl to allow the stub through. Make up a circle of 1/2"foam rubber the same size as the circle you have removed from the backing board. Slip this over the handle stub and then fit the door card. Now you can fit spring and plastic cover over the stub and push them into the door easily to enable the pins to be refitted properly.(it is always best to use original sized pins to prevent any "rock" of the handle and the extra foam behind keeps the trim covering nice and tight. (Jaguar door handles/window winders were always fitted that way).

FWIW some of the problems fitting the pins to the winder handles occur because the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder than originals.

Stuart.

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Hi Tony

How and where do you drill the holes in the handles, that open the doors? My handles (TR6 1970) has a shape, that in my opinion makes it impossible without spoiling the design.

 

Happy new new year

Tage

 

 

Hi Tage,

 

I drilled the handles by putting a small pilot drill in from the back (centrally in the square hole). Then I drilled the 5mm hole from the front of the handle and countersank it to suit the head of the screw.

 

Are your handles the same as in my picture?

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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FWIW some of the problems fitting the pins to the winder handles occur because the repro winder mechanisms have a shorter stub for the winder than originals.

Stuart.

 

 

That explains the difficulties I encountered and may well account for the proliferation of bad language emanating from my workshop at the time.... :lol:

 

Cheers

 

Tony

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Tony first time I came across them it was a similar situation here, Albert had to put his paws over his ears :lol:

Stuart.

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If you want to use the original pin - long handled needle nose pliers help.

 

My alternative suggestion is to use a length of gas welding rod (same diameter as the pin) - almost cut through it at one end the same length as the pin. Push that into the hole & then flex the rod & it will snap where you made the cut & it's in place!

 

Spot on Andy after having the same wind up with these pin a few years back i was told of this trick with the welding rod,never looked back.

ROY

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Hi Tony

 

My handles for the windows look very similar to yours, but "the problem" is the handles to open the doors. The shape of these handles is so, that it will not be possible to drill an countersink holes in them without spoiling the design.

Perhaps these handles are not original for a 6 - maybe from TR4, TR5 og TR250?

 

Cheers

Tage

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Hi Tony

 

My handles for the windows look very similar to yours, but "the problem" is the handles to open the doors. The shape of these handles is so, that it will not be possible to drill an countersink holes in them without spoiling the design.

Perhaps these handles are not original for a 6 - maybe from TR4, TR5 og TR250?

 

Cheers

Tage

 

6 inner door handles are the same as 5/250 and your right the shape doesnt lend itself to drilling out for a screw hence my way of trimming the backing board out. Works every time ;)

Stuart.

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