Glove box Door

[Jersey Royal]

Hi All,

 

Still waiting for big end bearings, so i am looking at the cockpit, new loom fitted.

 

More querys

 

I have recovered my dash, now i noticed the glove box door did not look correctly fitted,

it seemed to be flush with the outside face of the dash.

 

The ply measures app 14mm , then theres the aluminium screwed to the rear, and its on

the correct hinge.

 

I would be grateful if someone could post a picture and or measure the total thickness of the door

including covering and ally back.

 

Thanks

GUY

[Don Elliott]

Here is a photo of the glove box on my LH drive 1958 TR3A. Macy's Garage makes and sells them. You might find more photos there.

[BrianC]

...i noticed the glove box door did not look correctly fitted,

it seemed to be flush with the outside face of the dash.

 

Sounds OK to me. Haven't got any recent photos to hand but this might give a clue.

I'm sure others have better photos, but I'll measure mine tomorrow if no-one else responds..

[Jersey Royal]

Thanks Brian and Don.

 

Interesting in Dons photo the door stay, thats totaly missing, on mine

 

If you look at Mennos dash in his signature photo, it looks to me as if is set back and in line withe the wrinkle dash

 

http://www.tr-regist...ndpost&p=236859

 

Or is it my eyes, perhaps i should go to Spec Savers

 

Thanks

 

Guy

Edited November 19, 2011 by Jersey Royal

[Guest ntc]

Guy

You can hang a door it should be flush

[Jersey Royal]

Neil,

 

I understand what you say,but in this case the "door lining" isnt square . Its curved so i feel it would

look better if the door was say 1/4 back from the face of the dash.

 

If the door supposed to be flush the reveal should be square.

 

Cheers

Guy

[Guest ntc]

Guy

it should fit flush in every way? so now confused I have a spare if needed

[Jersey Royal]

Guy

it should fit flush in every way? so now confused I have a spare if needed

 

 

Neil,

 

Would you say Mennos is fitted flush?

 

I would say it is set back , you can see the curve and it looks right.

 

Thanks for the offer, i think i will be ok once i make a few mods

 

Cheers

Guy

[BrianC]

I think I understand what you meant now Guy. I'm pretty sure mine is set back a little and you can see the curve. Only photo I can find at the moment is the red dash on p44 of Bill Piggott's 'Original TR2/3/3A' book. I'll have a closer look at these two spares which haven't been retrimmed tomorrow.

 

[TR 2100]

Guy,

 

I think I could find you the bracket to fit to the dash and aluminium

check rod - but not much use unless the ally lining to your the glove

box door has the aluminium tab.

I suspect yours does not - or you would have suspected some form

of checking device should exist to limit the movement.

 

AlanR

[Don Elliott]

Here are two more photos. The red one is mine.

[BrianC]

Have just taken some measurements.

Thickness of trimmed cubby lid including aluminium backing is 3/8" (1cm).

Depth of cubby face below curves of dash (measured with depth gauge at centre with steel straight-edge held vertically across dash high-points) is 1/4" (as correctly guessed by Guy).

Measurments similar on both spare dashboards.

The original vinyl trim is very thin and the vinyl I used when I trimmed mine in the 70s had only an additional thin cloth backing, so if you are using leather or better quality/padded vinyl, then the measurements will be different and the depth of recess probably slighty less.

 

P.S. I haven't got a stay for any of these, so if anyone can supply a pattern or measurements I'd be grateful.

The tab on the aluminium backing is also broken on mine and also one of the spares and I know many others have had to make up a separate small angle bracket to replace it.

Edited November 20, 2011 by BrianC

[vivdownunder]

My lid is 10.5mm thickness all up - ali backing, ply and vynil. It's the original with intact stay tab, except for new vynil.

 

With a straight edge across the dash, the face of the lid sits flush at the top, slightly recessed in at the bottom.

 

I seem to recall the piano hinge along the bottom is slightly adjustable in or out in the dash holes.

 

Viv.

[Jersey Royal]

Thankyou Don Alan and Brian Viv,

Thats helped me out a great deal, i have the rear ally part, although it has clearly had three gauges in it at some point,

and the tab like Brians has broken of, easy to make up another i think and sandwich it between the ply and ally, would need to rebate the

ply to allow for the thickness.

 

Going to keep the three holed ally plate, as it is part of the cars history, and re make the ply door.

 

I would be interested in a close up of how the stay attaches, a rod could be made up

 

Then i will start looking at how the actual glove box attaches, i beleive they originaly had some strenthening bars or brackets from front to

back, mine is a repro and has no such fitting.

 

Heres a photo of the dash when i first got the car, its not too clear but you can seethe glove box is flush

 

 

Like Brians, my dash panel had been attacked by an over zealous PO, either that or Tin Worms are bigger

in the States

 

 

Alot has changed now, will post another picture once complete.

 

Thanks Again

Guy

Edited November 20, 2011 by Jersey Royal

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Guy,

 

the cubby lid can be supported by a slotted metal stay, the type you see on a drop down flap of domestic furniture. Long ago I had one of those, the slightly curved versions, each side of the 3A lid - adequate support for the Halda which slid out of the cubby onto the lid, so the navigator could reach it more easily from his harness.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Menno van Rij]

Mine is a little recessed: it's not flush with the dash. I took the gl/box door apart when I refurbished the dash. I've used marine quality plywood to rebuild the door. I even had to trim the plywood down (making it thinner) to be sure it's the same thickness as the wood I pulled out. I have no reason to assume that the wood I pulled out wasn't original. I think it's best to ask Don how his car's glove box door looks!

 

And looking at pictures of Raymond's car, I can cleary see that the door in his care is a little recessed too. I remember I had to make a bevelled edge almost all the way around the plywood to be sure that the door would be positioned recessed and not flush with the dashboard.

 

Menno

Edited November 20, 2011 by Menno van Rij

[Trevor S]

Guy, according to the Moss Catalogue, whilst the bracket buffer and check rod appear to be unavailable for rhd cars they are shown as available for lhd at £5.75 inc Vat. This would be the complete item shown in Don's post/picture of 19.11. You would just then have to manufacture a connection for the rod to the ali door backing plate. There is also a smaller bracket and buffer for the opposite side. This is also available if that is missing too.

Edited November 21, 2011 by Trevor S

[Jersey Royal]

Thanks Alec Menno and Trevor.

 

I have all the info i need.

 

Cheers

Guy

[MilesA]

I think I understand what you meant now Guy. I'm pretty sure mine is set back a little and you can see the curve. Only photo I can find at the moment is the red dash on p44 of Bill Piggott's 'Original TR2/3/3A' book. I'll have a closer look at these two spares which haven't been retrimmed tomorrow.

 

 

Brian

 

Off topic I know but I noticed the square aperture on the R/H side of the spare dash in your first photo. I can see a similar aperture under the vinyl of the dash on my car, although a little higher up. Any idea what it was for?

 

Miles

[vivdownunder]

Small aftermarket dashboard clocks of the era were square. Perhaps because it was easier to cut a square hole than a circle.

 

Viv.

Edited November 22, 2011 by vivdownunder

[BrianC]

Almost certainly a clock, although it wasn't fitted when I acquired the dash.

 

However, I do have one which I bought to fit in Lynda's TR4A but she sold the car before I fitted it, so the clock will be for sale when I get around to it:

 

 

Smith’s 12V +ve earth rectangular clock (tested working Jan 2010)

 

I bought this with the intention of fitting it in the ashtray aperture so could easily be insulated and used on –ve earth cars.