HeswallTR3 Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hi, I refurbed the seats about 4 years ago and am now ready to put them back in the car, stupidly I didnt keep any notes on how they came out as I thought at the time, this would be easy. No matter what configuration I set the rails out I cannot get the studs to marry up with the holes in the base of the seats, I have put in new floor pans, but I dont think that this had led to my current dilemma Does any one have any photos to help me out Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Hi Keith, as usual with all Tr's NOTHING FITS! I had the same thing and all you can do is re drill the holes. Regards, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Hi, I refurbed the seats about 4 years ago and am now ready to put them back in the car, stupidly I didnt keep any notes on how they came out as I thought at the time, this would be easy. No matter what configuration I set the rails out I cannot get the studs to marry up with the holes in the base of the seats, I have put in new floor pans, but I dont think that this had led to my current dilemma Does any one have any photos to help me out Keith Keith you should have 4 bits of rails per side. The lower rails just have holes in them and are attached to the cage nuts in the floor with round headed bolts. These are horrid things to get out 50 years later so I would use regular bolts if possible. The upper rails (one with the adjuster latch) slide on the lower rails and have studs that go into the holes in the bottom of the seats, secured with washers and nuts. You should be able to match the holes in the lower rails to the holes in the floor and the studs on the upper rails to the holes in the seat pan. If they all match then its just a question of getting the rails in the right orientation so that the system fits together. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) Keith, fix the floor rails down first - vertical sections to the inside facing each other. Suggest using Unbrako (allen key) bolts, as they have rounded heads like the originals. Then fit the seat tracks into the floor rails, seat adjusting lever on the door side. It will kick up, but push it down with the seat pan to get the hole alignment. If the holes don't line up, then the seat rails or seat pans must have changed since they came out. Regards, Viv. Edited October 4, 2011 by vivdownunder Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeswallTR3 Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Thanks for the replies, got it now...new holes being drilled Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Make sure you use very large washers to spread the load, otherwise the seat pans will crack. Similarly, below the floors if you use ordinary nuts rather than captive nuts for the floor slide/rail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jasper Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 On mine there is a ca. 1/8" thick strip of metal in between the runner and the seat pan, see pic. I guess once all is tightened up they will add rigidity, an invention from previous owner perhaps? Hasn't stopped one of the studs pulling through the last time i retightened them, another job for winter ...... cheers Jasper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 This is how I did my seat rails in 1990 (exactly as they came when brand new in 1958). The lever for locking the slide rails to the fixed rails should have the lever almost touching the doors (on both sides). It appears to me that the photo above is not correct. Also, many will advise that you cut away the carpet where the fixed rails are secured to the floor pans. DON'T DO THIS !!! If you do, the seat will never slide as it should. The bottom of the seat pan will catch in the carpet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) This is how I did my seat rails in 1990 (exactly as they came when brand new in 1958). The lever for locking the slide rails to the fixed rails should have the lever almost touching the doors (on both sides). It appears to me that the photo above is not correct. Also, many will advise that you cut away the carpet where the fixed rails are secured to the floor pans. DON'T DO THIS !!! If you do, the seat will never slide as it should. The bottom of the seat pan will catch in the carpet. ...cut the carpet and then you can do what MG at Abingdon did to rectify the non sliding seat problem - bolt a strip of wood between the seat runner and the floor to fill up the space where the carpet was cut out. It does mean you can get the carpets out when soaked without having to remove the seats though. Perhaps that is a hint on how leaky their weather equipment was. Their sewing shop also had the challenge of welting the edge of the cut outs to neaten up the carpet. Peter W Edited October 7, 2011 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.