tr4u2 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 So I have read the workshop manual and having been quoted what I think is lots of money to do the job,i have decided to have a go myself. Before I start anybody done this already (successfully!!) who I can chat to,see if my theories on how to proceed without the factory jigs are correct Before you ask why, its having an lsd fitted so have to start from scratch regards Adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 If you get it wrong, your crown wheel and pinion will machine each other, and the resulting debris won't do the bearings and the LSD any good whatsoever. I'm not saying it cannot be done - just make sure you know what you are doing. I have had two pinions lose teeth (in both cases, I believe it was the result of a hard life in earlier times and then old age), and in both cases I removed the axle myself but entrusted the rebuilding (with replacement crown wheel/pinion pair) to a firm which I trust (somewhere not far from Bridgwater!). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Adrian this is one job that you should open your wallet and pass to an expert. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 So I have read the workshop manual and having been quoted what I think is lots of money to do the job,i have decided to have a go myself. Before I start anybody done this already (successfully!!) who I can chat to,see if my theories on how to proceed without the factory jigs are correct Before you ask why, its having an lsd fitted so have to start from scratch regards Adrian Adrian Yes it can be done but you need a lot of patience get it wrong get it right but as others have said not a diy job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Adrian This could go very wrong as the first point that you know you havent got it right is when the diff detonates. Unless you have an axle spreader, shim sets, measuring kit and the experience to know how to set the diff up, id hand it over to someone who knows what is needed. Id recommend TR Enterprises for the job as they did mine and its been great. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) So I have read the workshop manual and having been quoted what I think is lots of money to do the job,i have decided to have a go myself. Before I start anybody done this already (successfully!!) who I can chat to,see if my theories on how to proceed without the factory jigs are correct Before you ask why, its having an lsd fitted so have to start from scratch regards Adrian I did a TR Register Rebuild Seminar on this at St Neots some years ago, does any one still have the video? Is your current axle quiet , without whining noises or clonks? Are you intending to renew the CW & P or any bearings? If NO to all of the above your task is a bit simpler, save removal and re-fitment of bearings without ruining them. ie. you only want to fit a LSD unit. Before you take off the bearing caps mark them, so you putt them back in the right place, the right way round. That will save a bit of stress.... You will spend more time taking the thing to bits than rebuilding during the process. It is a slow and methodic job and needs constant attention. NB - Check the CW & P tooth contact with engineers blue before you take it all to bits to see what it is running like and what you will expect to find once reassembled. It should not change if you do not move the height of the pinion, and you get the backlash right. Tackle the axle in single steps when rebuilding. Read and follow the factory workshop manual - especially the bits about pinion and carrier bearing preloads. 99% of the time a diff case spreader is not needed, just approach it with two tyre levers. Bearing removers are needed - Do not just chisel them off !!! You will need a dial indicator that measures in inches or a calculator to get the measurements from milli-metrics into inches. You will need a method of holding the drive flange when tightening the big nut. - I have a 2ft length of angle iron that bolts to the flange. You can just hold the flange in the vise but that takes away any 'feel' for the pinion rotation as it is tightened. You will need a method of supporting the axle assy. beit bench vice or two quality axle stands and a clamp. Have the skill to strip, identify, clean and inspect all the inners of the axle assy. 1. Set the carrier bearing (LSD) pre-load first without the pinion fitted. Fit bearings and shims in the same posn as they were in the orig set up. Then remove the LSD unit. 2. Fit and set the pinion pre-load without the seal fitted by adding or removing shims under the small pinion brg - you are more than likely to be removing to take up the wear, if you are not replacing the bearings. Work out the pre-load with a spring balance attached to a known length of bar attached to the drive flange. (you are looking for inch pounds of rotational torque) - The real tool is a bar with a known weight that can be moved along the calibrated bar. Once happy move onto fitting the carrier assy 3. Fit and torque the CW to the LSD. 4. Install the LSD and CW assy, set the backlash to the defined limit by moving shims from one side to the other - do not add to the shim pack that you selected to get the right bearing preload. Check with blue the tooth contact is as required. Remember you did a blue check before you stripped it. 5. Once you are happy, fit the nose seal, torque up the pinion flange nut and lock, lubricate the bearings and other moving bits. Fit the back cover. 6. Fit the half shafts, if a solid axle car, set axle shaft end float - a slow and laborious task. Fit new axle tube seals as required. 7. Refit axle. 8. Fill the axle with the correct LSD lubricant. There, done in about a day unless you got all excited and wire brushed and painted the axle assy and had to wait for the poncing to dry. What about the outer axle hub bearings?? Solid axle car owners - scratch head and search around for someone with a hub splitter. pm me if you are in need of an axle hub being split/removed, I have the OE Churchill tool. Hope this helps Peter W Edited March 10, 2011 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 By the time you finish, you'll know you shouldn't have started. Pay up and look cheerful imho. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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