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tr4u2

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About tr4u2

  • Birthday 03/09/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
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  • Yahoo
    adrian.salisbury@yahoo.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    east goscote leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    rebuilding classic cars and motor bikes
    looking forward to finishing work in 2014 and finishing TR4 rebuild hopefully before summer
  1. tr4u2

    New Wings.

    there are some NOS panels on ebay you might not have seen
  2. john assume 4a and 4 are the same part no 850340ft i was starting from bare door but would think that you could take front and rear channels out with the glass still in doing it one at a time once out, drill out the rivets holding the brackets to the old channels,clean repaint brackets if you want to easy way is then to clamp old and new alongside each other then using a square mark across hole centres drill new channels,i had some solid countersunk head rivets but otherwise use small csk hd screws/nuts (screw hd's inside channel)don't use self tappers! to fix brkts to channel refit to glass door and adjust to suit regards adrian any problems drop me an email
  3. Thks all once i got the correct Towergate (didcot ) all went well just got conf quote in post today from Sue £186 with all the mods could not believe it regards Adrian
  4. To those of you who replied to my query on which tyres are best thanks very much info was pretty unanimous on Avons. had to talk to Simon at TR Ent last week, he agreed with you guy's TR coming on well, to extent thinking about getting it insured so i can get it mot'd Just fell off my chair when Adrian Flux quoted £500+ AND only third party!!!! my Honda S2000 is less than that with 200+bhp OK so its got a few mods like cam,head webbers, lsd,alloy panels,mini-lites etc,etc,could not see why girl was interested in the black leather bucket seats but each to his own you guys must be in similar spec cars SO who do you use to cover your cars,i assume you have declared your mods of course !!!! regards Adrian
  5. i might actually get my TR4 finished/running in the next week or two thanks to a prolonged spell off work it has been built with the idea of doing a few hill-climbs ,sprints etc before i get to old/ cannot afford it So i have a set of 5.5 minilites on it with some cooking tyres so i can use it on the road to run it in etc what tyres do you guys recommend for competition use regards adrian
  6. Jim like you not a pro but having done this if you want my advice put the body back on the chassis and set it up best you can re door gaps etc my tub was much worse than i thought so ended up getting another rear from B post back. so i had the front section A post forward and the back half bolted down. i even put the empty door shells back on to see i had got the gaps/height about right. then bolt the floors down and work out from there,as you say tack and try!!! before welding have you got a spot welder or are you going to plug weld ? get all the prep done first, go to a good motor factors and get a spray can of weld through primer this will give all those cleaned off edges some protection best of luck regards Adrian
  7. Just posted all the items i have over in the Buy/Sell Forum just in case like me you do not always look in there regards adrian
  8. Tom my frame is flat under the capping but indented underneath for the surrey top bolts,suppose you just put a plug in there if not using the holes regards
  9. thanks guys,will put the original one back on as its correct why don't supplies check these things
  10. Can someone tell me which is the correct capping that is riveted to the top of the screen with a Surrey Top. Both the Moss and Rimmer webbs seem to indicate part number 806189 BUT the parts drawings indicate that the pressing has a bulge at each end for a press stud fixing,in fact Moss actually list the fixings. however what you get is a pressing without the press stud feature in it from both suppliers which is correct one please????? also while on the subject the seal for this area has a formed bump at each end does this go down on to the screen or up to the top, blowed if i can see which way it fits,also there are no holes for the two fixing bolts,something else you have to sort for yourself?? regards adrian
  11. Chris in cases like this with my resto i have made the shape out of a piece of scrap hardwood or aluminium,make the sheet steel shape 3-4 mm bigger all round,then clamp the sheet to the wood and gently knock the edge over to make the upstand as the original. you will have to flie/sand/linish the edges level if you want to. drill two holes to suit the nut thread you need, using some scrap screws fasten two nuts on them attach them to the plate with your mig welder if you are not worried about it being original just cut the shape and follow step 2 regards adrian
  12. Having purchased so many items in my TR4 total rebuild that do not fit correctly this may be another of these. fitted the front suspension to both sides as this w/e's tick on the project list to find the following on the n/s side when the suspension is on the bottom stop (full droop) the rear ear that goes against the lock stop, fouls the rear lower wishbone arm at the fulcrum pivot point. this locks the steering. the o/s is OK with minimal clearance in the same full droop! as you jack up the suspension this clears which would possibly indicate its ok when the cars weight is on the suspension but i am not happy to leave it at this with out knowing whats wrong both the top and bottom the arms are on the correct way ,both sides upright and trunnion are brand new, 3' castor type leaning correct way, all new bushings throughout Also on both neither of the lock stops is big enough to actually be able to set the stop either on turn in or out ,i am assuming i have the correct lock stops lock stop is 3/4" with offset bolt hole if anyone has correct item they can check for me would welcome any idea's, pointers please regards Adrian
  13. Started putting it all back together after the painting, came to the front vent flap, only to find the hole for the push rod is missing. can anyone help with location please ,perhaps easiest to use the edge of the rear access plate hole as the datum OR Anyone near East Goscote, Leicester let me have a look at their 4 regards Adrian Salisbury
  14. There is some NEW furflex for sale on Ebay,enough to do a car if anyone is interested regards
  15. tr4u2

    TR4 Rebuild

    Roger really enjoy reading about your rebuild when continuing with mine. Makes me realise i do not have the only TR4 that was not built by Triumph when fitting new parts. just bought a brand new grill that has more chance of fitting a Morris oxford than a TR4 and an anti roll bar kit that says suggest you use "our" sump guard as a mounting point for this and if you don't want to,well assume i am on my own again as with other up grades that leave you wondering!! luckily i have the support of my old mate Barry Hodson motorsport just down the road and Simon at Tr Ent when i fell like throwing the towel in out of frustration Carry on with the good works and the updates regards Adrian
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