PhilJane Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Another appeal for advise please........... I have reworked my TR3A fuel pump and am removing an insulating spacer between the cylinder block and the fuel pump. I bought a replacement fuel pipe from Moss but unfortunately this came as a large coiled pipe and no indication of the correct routing of the pipe. I have bought a support bracket and rubber damper to hold the pipe at the front around the thermostat housing but would be grateful for any advise on the routing (particularly around the thermostat housing and the use and fitting of this support bracket)and whether the pipe can be bent off the engine or is it best routed on the car. Never trained as a pipe fitter, so any tips, photos or diagrams would be appreciated. Thanks, Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 This is not the original route, but it works perfectly; no hot spots, no vapour lock. I bought a few lenghts of insulating sleeve (is that the correct word) and put the fuel pipe inside to be sure that the fuel stays cool. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Phil Mine's a 4 but the basics are similar. A good oportunity to get yourself along to your local group's meeting.TR owners are not normally reluctant to lift their bonnets, to show you their engine bay.Armed with your digital camera you can click away.... a picture speaks a thousand words. The route is vertical, from the pump outlet, in between the 3rd and fourth spark plug. A gentle 90 degrees forward to the front of the car on a line roughly just below the top of the block/ bottom of the rocker cover.Another gentle 90 degrees tucking under the Thermostat housing. You can hang the support bracket off of one of the housing bolts, cushioning the pipe in the rubber insert. T'other side of the housing, carburetter side ,it carries on to the fixed pipe connections for the twin carbs. General tipsAs an apprentice pipe fitter : - Make the bends as smooth as possible, nothing too sharp.Continual " working " of the pipe, bending and then correcting ..continuously will result in a split pipe ( Go to Jail, Do not pass GO ).Do not " rush in " to unravel the entire coil of the pipe into a beautiful straight line ( only to have to bend it back again.) Cut up a couple of wire coat hangers with a mini hacksaw/ robust cable cutter and practice on achieving the desired shape once the "route" is established. The use of a mini automotive pipe bender is invalueable.Either purchase or borrow from a fellow club member/ local friendly garage. It is possible , with patience, to bend pipes by hand over suitable sized objects ( steel pipes,paint tins, broom handles, etc ) but ... a third hand is useful.A slippery eel analogy springs to mind. Mark the end of the straight/ beginning of the bend with masking/ insulating tape. A light grease of the pipe, on the section to be bent , with vaseline helps the tool slip easiliy around the curvature.Check your progress at stages.Better to take three bites at getting a 90 degrees bend ,than try and convert a sharp 110 degree bend BACK to a 90 degrees one !! The first bend in the sequence is easy but double/ triple check the subsequent bends are in the right direction.A work mate bench with a vee cut out is very helpful.Whatever you do don't crush the pipe with too much presuure. Work in a clean area and keep your hands clean.Rinse the finished pipe through with meths, fingers on either end and shake.If you are not fixing to the car straight away plug the ends.Plastic end caps if provided otherwise a couple of plastic golf tees. I would recommend a brake pipe sealant on the joints and protective heat tubing around the fuel pipe is ( due to the closeness of the engine block which gets very hot, leading to fuel evapouration ).Menno has gone down this route as you can see from his pictures.There are other opinions for you to review on the Forum. It is a matter of personal choice. Just take it easy and don't rush it. Good luck Bob Edited February 6, 2011 by bob-menhennett Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi Menno, Thanks for the great photo, your engine bay is in fantastic condition. Amazing! The routing of the pipe is clear and so I just need to take my time and check twice and bend once. Two questions on your engine bya, I notice you have mounted your coil on the inner wing and not on the block. Reasons? I notice the pipe from your heater valve is pointing slightly rearwards. I am about to replace mine, but I wonder how you fully tighten the valve in the cylinder head yet keep the pipe exiting at 90 degrees to the engine centre line? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi Bob, Many thanks for taking the time to give these comprehensive guidelines. I can see you have done this sort of job before! Using the wire coat hanger as a "model" is a great idea and should be able to make most of the bends off the car. A pipe bending tool also seems to be needed for a neat finish. Thanks, Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Phil, You can get a cheap and cheerful pipe bender that works well from Machine Mart, it will do brake pipe and fuel pipe. I have also attached another picture showing an alternative fuel pipe route. Not mine I hasten to add but I tend to gather any photos that I find just in case I need them as a reference point. As you can see, this is also a pretty snazzy engine bay! Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi Ian, Thanks for the additional photo and the tip on pipe benders. The bit that still puzzles me is the route under the thermostat housing and the use of the rubber supported clamp. Any other photos in this area anyone? When all the mechanical work is sorted , I need to get scrubbing on the engine bay, these immaculate cars are putting mine to shame! Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Try this. The small copper pipe will be the vacuum retard pipe. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilJane Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Excellent photo. Thanks, Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi Menno, Thanks for the great photo, your engine bay is in fantastic condition. Amazing! The routing of the pipe is clear and so I just need to take my time and check twice and bend once. Two questions on your engine bya, I notice you have mounted your coil on the inner wing and not on the block. Reasons? I notice the pipe from your heater valve is pointing slightly rearwards. I am about to replace mine, but I wonder how you fully tighten the valve in the cylinder head yet keep the pipe exiting at 90 degrees to the engine centre line? Overhere in Holland house hold electric wiring is made of thick copper thread, coated black, brown etc. Earth wire is very thick and can easily be bend into the correct shape. I used that as a guidance / mallet. Like the coat hanger! I put my coil on the inner wing for two reasons: less heat and less vibrations. Both not good for coils. (I'm only wondering if I have the correct coil: Lucas sports coil, but that's another thread). The heater valve simply fitted that way! I used special tape to make a watertight. Mind you, the pipe that's screwed into the heater valve has little thread! you can not screw it into the valve very deep. Do not use the short pipe as a lever! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Menno, another question for you.. where did you get the braided SS hose section for the oil pressure gauge line ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Menno, another question for you.. where did you get the braided SS hose section for the oil pressure gauge line ? Stan Wow, I don't remember at the moment. My first thought was The Roadster Factory... My second thought was Revington. I'm not sure. I'll have to dig up old files with bills to find out. (Don't like to look at these bills for obvious reasons...) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Menno, another question for you.. where did you get the braided SS hose section for the oil pressure gauge line ? Stan Stan, Its available from Moss UK because that is where I bought mine from. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Stan, TSI automotive sells them in the US for 32.95 Here is the link. http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/tr3_tr4a.html Cheers, Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Stan, TSI automotive sells them in the US for 32.95 Here is the link. http://www.tsimporte...m/tr3_tr4a.html Cheers, Tush Hi Tush, are you sure that is not a complete ss braided hose that goes all the way to the gauge as Ted's TR6 oil pressure line is made ?. I have one of those on my TR6 and it is a great upgrade from that plastic tube but I'm only looking to replace the short rubber hose on the TR3 keeping the solid line up to the gauge just as we see on Menno's car. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 #25 on this diagram is what I bought from Moss UK which is definitely only the short, braided hose linking the pump to the pipe. (And it looks lovely!!) http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2061 I would have thought that it's exactly the same as #125 on THIS diagram from Moss US. But a call to them would no doubt answer the query... http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29117 Hope that helps... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 #25 on this diagram is what I bought from Moss UK which is definitely only the short, braided hose linking the pump to the pipe. (And it looks lovely!!) http://www.moss-euro...ateIndexID=2061 I would have thought that it's exactly the same as #125 on THIS diagram from Moss US. But a call to them would no doubt answer the query... http://www.mossmotor...teIndexID=29117 Hope that helps... Thanks Tim. The Moss UK web site is explicit about it being stainless but that is not mentioned on the Moss US description. I called and the person I talked to (Ken) actually went and got one and he reported back that it is in fact a stainless braided hose, part number 376-160. He said he would try and get that detail added to the part description. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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