Jump to content

PhilJane

Registered User
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Could my car have a TR5 plate, showing the weight of the car in lbs. ? The cars were going down the production line together....
  2. Thanks for those two comments. Here are a couple more photos. It shows a 'door pull' which Bill Piggott's book indicates that this was a feature of the TR4A. Also shown is the dash.
  3. Hi All. I wonder if I could get some advice on riveted tags and commission numbers. I am interested in buying a TR250 car which has a riveted plate on the bulkhead with a number "421 - C" and a Commission number of "CD411L" should these be the same? The seller has pointed out that the car has had a front end collision in the past (evidence on the inner wing and bonnet) and the paint code indicates the car should be British racing green with black trim, although it is currently red bodywork with tan interior. The colour change does not bother me but am curious whether the numbers should match.
  4. Hi, There was a superbly restored TR4 that went through Anglia Car auctions on Saturday 3rd September that didn't meet the reserve. Does anyone know of the owner and if so I wonder if they could make contact? many thanks, Phil.
  5. Hi all, Just had the spare wheel cover painted and am now ready to replace the lock escutcheons. It's a silly one, but can any one advise on whether the hinge(pivot) is at the top or the bottom, when installed? thanks, Phil.
  6. Norman, Don and Pete, Good to hear from you. It seems this is not an uncommon oil leak. I might be tempted to try a temporary repair to get me running over the next two or three months, but recognise it really is a gearbox and o/d out job to rectify the problem properly. Good to know to check for flatness and cracking and not just replace the joint. Congratulations Don, are we going to see some engine photos? Looking forward to catching up with you shortly!
  7. Don, Good to hear from you and thanks for your response. I support your suggestion of a cracked plate, as the leak can be measured by the size of the pool of oil under the transmission rather than the frequency of the drips. Not sure what has caused the oil leak to deteriorate though, whether I had lost all the oil prior to the oil change, using a slightly lower viscosity synthetic oil and then fully topping up the transmission or the two seconds in reverse gear with the overdrive engaged? Interesting one about the use of sealant on soft joints. I know some believe that if the part
  8. Good morning all, Have been investigating an oil leak from the gearbox and overdrive on my TR3A and it was perhaps wishful thinking that I thought it was a drain plug leak. Having changed the oil recently with probably lower viscosity oil, the leak seems to have got worse. Cleaning down , it appears to be coming from the gearbox to overdrive adaptor plate. I have nipped up the clamping nuts but the leak persists. Is this a common leak path and is there any in situ fix or is it gearbox and overdrive out? Thanks in advance, for any advice. Phil.
  9. Hi Don, Many thanks for the reply. Brass is a soft metal and I didn't like the idea of tightening the plug with an adjustable spanner! I have located a 30mm socket, so hope that will do the job. Phil.
  10. Hi All, Wondered if any one could advise on the correct socket size for the overdrive drain plug. Just need to nip it up. Happy to have Imperial or Metric equivalent! Many thanks, Phil.
  11. Hi All, I have read a few posts on setting up the ignition timing and it's interesting to hear that our experts set up the ignition timing by finding the detonation point (lugging up a hill in 3rd gear)ie by 'feel' and backing off a couple of degrees, rather than set to a fixed ignition timing. Is that due to the different states of engine tune or the different fuels being used? I was hoping to set my ignition timing with a timing light, but find there are no fixed recommendations. Is it 10 deg. BTDC at 800 rev/min? Thanks, Phil.
  12. Hi Viv - Thanks for your recommendation on the oil for the gearbox and overdrive unit. Do you (or other members) know the Castrol (or other manufacturers) product which is the equivalent to Castrol VMX 80? I believe it is hard to find in the UK. Is there a universal recommendation on oil for the differential? Many thanks, Phil.
  13. Thanks for all the great correspondence on my overdrive issues. The feedback was sufficient to help diagnose something was wrong with the electrical side of the overdrive wiring and I confess to taking the car to my local auto-electrician who rewired the overdrive switch, relay and interlock switches, such that 1st gear and reverse can now be used without any problems. (no sound of the solenoid moving in these gears). I am now in a dilemna over whether to go with 20W/50 Valvoline R engine oil which Don has had good experience, or go for the 30 or 40 grade gear oil. Are there favoured brands of
  14. Hi John and Roger, Thanks for your comments and suggestions. I did drain the gearbox and overdrive unit and got substantially less than 2 litres. Seeing the oil level was low, I was keen to fill with fresh oil and see if that had cured the problem. On the road the o/d worked well, switching in and out in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. Reversing was fine with the overdrive switched off, although I did tentatively try reverse very briefly with the overdrive switched on and the old symptoms were shown. Does this suggest that it is the inhibitor switches and not the relay or a faulty
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.