stuart Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 What brake fluid are you using? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 What brake fluid are you using? Stuart. Good ? Stuart He is bleeding it wrong, is there any of the braided pipes above the bottom of the fluid reservoir? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Its obviously time to revert to standard with the correct pipe work, the correct clearance between the M/C and push rod etc. Bleeding brakes shoudnt be this hard although at times I have struggled to get a decent pedal it has always been achieved after a couple of goes with the missus doing the pedal end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 For what its worth, I ended up bleeding the clutch the other way round. I purchased a cheap oil can (the old style red pump type), filled it with brake fluid, and pumped from the slave upwards. Never had an issue since as I think the fluid rising from the bottom pushed all the air up and out. Mates have tried the Mityvac unit, and unless your bleed nipple is very close tolerance to the casting, it ends up sucking in air around the nipple. Given that its quite costly Id say not worth the money. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Mates have tried the Mityvac unit, and unless your bleed nipple is very close tolerance to the casting, it ends up sucking in air around the nipple. That's a very good point. I do fancy a set of the Speedbleeders, altho I see Demon Tweeks only sell metric threads and I think the rear wheel cylinders of all ages were imperial (??) However, Speedbleeders are available in 3/8" x 24 so someone must stock them. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) Hi Steve, this may not help your situation but it may make you feel as though you are not alone. At the 2008 Classic Le Mans an old)ish) a lady asked our group if we had any seals for a leaking clutch slave cyclinder. Of course we did - everybody carries all these things (don't we!!! ). Anyway the old dears husband limped the car to our camp area where upon we found it was not the clutch slave but the brake M/C. Even easier First thing we find was that the M/C seal carrier would not come out. We decide to remove the M/C Second thing we find the M/C brake pipe nut was rounded off and would not budge So, we disconnect the brake pipe at the 4 way union - remove M/C and pipe and sort the seals. By this time the half dozen trusty asstistants had now disappeared. Refit M/C and pipe fill with oil, operate pedal - NOTHING Remove the whole lot and check seals for direction - all OK - refit - more oil - NOTHING. To cut a very long, dirty, hot, annoying situation a bit shorter I had to remove the M/C but keep the pipe connected. Pull out the seal unit a small way to allow oil through the M/C into the slacked off (at the bottom) pipe until the pipe was full(ish). Refit the M/C - success. The chap was very thankful. He thanked all the assistants sat around drinking beer but not me (odd that). However I was in no mood to rip it all out. Point of story - try filling the M/C and pipe by gravity. You will need to remove the M/C and hold as high as possible. Roger Edited January 31, 2011 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Well, I've just dropped the car off at the garage for a reverse pressure bleed,...... Let's see if that works! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 So what brake fluid are you using? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 So I'm told that the garage pressure bled the brakes twice, then we set the servo pushrod gap..... Result? ..... It's a bit better but still unnaceptable. I have only one thought left, apart from setting fire to it that is!!, replace the rubber brake lines. The fronts are new but I've no idea how old the rears are. So I've purchased a set if braided lines from the tr shop and will put them on tomorrow, obviously followed by some more bleeding! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Dot4 brake fluid Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lee Sellars Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) Hello Steve I think this has been covered before. Which part of the master cylender are the bubbles comeing from?? Rear section is the front brakes. (Large part) Front section is the rear brakes. (Small part) Lee Edited February 1, 2011 by Lee Sellars Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hello Steve I think this has been covered before. Which part of the master cylender are the bubbles comeing from?? Rear section is the front brakes. (Large part) Front section is the rear brakes. (Small part) Lee Thanks for the comment Lee, no more bubbles since i replaced the tired looking copper pipes with braided lines, custom made and lovely. Today i also replaced the rubber lines at each corner, the fronts were new but the backs very old, with goodridge braided from the TR shop. Small improvement if anything. I think i need to get the car up on a ramp and take a careful look at the brake lines. They are newish but seem to have been amateurly fitted, so im thinking they may be leaking / sucking in air somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 So..... I gave up and asked the experts, in this case Fred Jackman of the Windsor Forest brigade. He recommended taking the car to Rees Bros down in Aldershot, not too far for me, even without brakes ! So I called them up and they were most helpful, and liked the idea of a challenge. Took the car down and they spent a good hour with me, two guys test drove the car, and they suggested all the things i had already tried, apart from setting fire to it ! Then, after a long look at the front disks and pads they recommended renewing them as they looked 'cooked' or comtaminated. I have come across this before but on a mountain bike not a car ! And they wouldnt take any money for their time, i insisted on giving them a beer voucher and getting a quote for some other work i want done. So off to the TR shop on the Monster for some Lucas drilled disks, and greenstuff pads. I would have liked to get Mintex or Hawk pads but these werent in stock, i might change later if i dont like the greenstuff. So tomorrow morning, bright and early probably , its off with the old and on with the new. Wish me luck ! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Success!!!!! The new brakes went on easily, hub to disk bolts not been off in a long while but nothing the impact wrench couldn't handle! Pads fitted easily, except they had the wrong hole sizes, apparently I have imperial calipers not metric as told by the po. Setup looks good, and they work! Instantly much improved and obviously need bedding in. Thanks go to Rees Bros for the advice, tr shop for good parts and prices!, and everyone fir the support and advice. What's the next job ;-) Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lee Sellars Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Hello Steve Have some fun in it. Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Good, and thanks for keeping us posted. But what was the connection between the tired pads and the non-bleeding? Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 But what was the connection between the tired pads and the non-bleeding? Ivor Nil, dick squat there you go Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 There were 3 problems! Poor copper fitting at mc letting in air, hence bubbles in mc Glazed/contaminated/burned pads and disks Servo pushrod gap excessive Brakes good now :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 After reading all the horror stories, I was dreading this part of the rebuild, but bit the bullet this afternoon. I have used all new parts for the brake system (all from Moss) and used a visibleed so I could do it on my own. Apart from one loose connection (finger tight - had been meaning to nip it up but forgot) everything went fine Hope the clutch will be the same tomorrow Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Poor copper fitting at mc letting in air, hence bubbles in mc Well found. One wouldn't think that air at 14psi would leak in where fluid at 500(?)psi doesn't leak out. But it does. Funny old world. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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