alexander Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 On my TR3a R/H drive car the body is sitting high on near side front (passenger side). The car is being rebuilt and all the suspension has been replaced and the body bolted back on. The gaps on doors and wings are nice and even and the body is level across the back of the car and across the door tops. When I put the level across the top of the front wings the level runs out. The gap on the passenger side between the top of the wheel and bottom wheel arch is one inch more than the driver’s side. I’m going to strip down the front suspension on both sides just in case I’ve assembled one side incorrectly, but any suggestions would be welcome. Alexander Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) I’m going to strip down the front suspension on both sides just in case I’ve assembled one side incorrectly, but any suggestions would be welcome. Rebuilt cars often need a little time to settle down. I would check to see exactly where the difference is. Check the height of the chassis and various points on the front suspension before you strip down. I would even drive it for a while before concluding that there was something amiss. AlanR Edited January 20, 2011 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Mine was the same after the rebuild. I agee with Alan - just drive it. Whatever you do, it will settle one way or the other after a while. Mine still drives fine after 10000+ hard miles and I doubt I'll bother to change it unless a spring breaks or goes weak. May be more important in a concours car, but no big deal if you just want to enjoy driving it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) I agree with those above. Leave it as it turns out. I wouldn't worry even if you plan to show it in a judged concours event. The judge cannot remember after looking at the entire left side for 10 minutes and then he goes around to look at the right side. Often there are two or more judges, one to do each side. After about 80,000 to 90,000 miles, I noticed one side of the front of my 1958 TR3A was about 1.5" lower than the other front side - by the gaps above the tyres. In 20 judged concours events, no-one had ever noticed or said anything. I fixed it by increasing the height of the sagging low side by adding a less tall aluminuim spacer to the top of the existing spacer. Now it's even. Don't try to add a full inch in your case. It will raise the high side by about 1/2". To raise the low side 1", I suggest adding 1/2" to the low side. My friendly neighbour turned a spare full spacer down in height on his 10" lathe, then TIG welded the aluminium parts back into one solid piece. Now it's even on both sides. Wait a year before doing this and when you decide to do it, you only need to dismantle the low sagging side. I have driven another 20,000 miles and it's still even. Edited January 20, 2011 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 On my TR3a R/H drive car the body is sitting high on near side front (passenger side). The car is being rebuilt and all the suspension has been replaced and the body bolted back on. The gaps on doors and wings are nice and even and the body is level across the back of the car and across the door tops. When I put the level across the top of the front wings the level runs out. The gap on the passenger side between the top of the wheel and bottom wheel arch is one inch more than the driver's side. I'm going to strip down the front suspension on both sides just in case I've assembled one side incorrectly, but any suggestions would be welcome. Alexander Alexander, I had the same problem but since I knew the cause (former fender bender) I took a different approach to Don's. I put the frame on 4 jackstands set to the same height. on a level floor. If you can't get it to sit on all four, the frame is bent. If it is off by much (I don't know the tolerances but mine was off almost 2 inches) then it will need to be straightened. An easy job for a good frame shop (getting harder to find lately).. DIY is possible but quite difficult especially with the body on. Measure also the geometry of the spring towers (easier when the frame is already straight). Again, unless something is actually broken, another easy frame shop job. Not exactly cheap but I think a good value. If everything check out ok, go directly to Don's post. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) Leave it as it turns out. I wouldn't worry even if you plan to show it in a judged concours event. Don, Not so sure I agree with that - depends on the owner. My TR4 sat lower at the front, one side to the other. It took me quite a while to even notice it, but once I knew, I was never happy with it. The problem on my car was the front springs. I had these custom made to original length (at a time when the shorter springs were not available). (Edit - and the ratings must have different) AlanR Edited January 21, 2011 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 My TR4 sat lower at the front, one side to the other. It took me quite a while to even notice it, but once I knew, I was never happy with it. Once you see a fault, that's all you see every time you look at the car. Fortunately, this is one fault you can't see or hear when driving! However, at least a visual inspection, perhaps by a knowledgable third-party, might not be a bad idea at this stage, just to confirm that no assembly errors have been made. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Alan - I agree with you. I measured the springs and the spring rates off the car. On the high side of my 1958 TR3A, the front coil spring had lost about 10% of the original compression value specified - at the compressed height. I also tested the spring for the sagging side and it had lost about 15%. So I re-used them. The front end might be 10% lower than it was originally but one of the things I like about this are the sleek lines of a lower sidescreen TR. I remember seeing a concours winning red TR3A for about 5 or 6 years from Maryland at US TRA judged events where the car was about 2" higher than originally at all 4 corners and it looked horrible to me. The front wheel you see below is after the spacer change. This side had been the low sagging side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alexander Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Thanks for the advice everyone, as everything is new and as I made a spring compressor to Stuart’s design to assist in the rebuild, I’ll take a look to check that I’ve done nothing stupid... (Not unknown) If it still rides high I’ll put some miles on then check again and if need be correct as Don’s suggested. I agree with you Brian once you see a fault it’s there every time you look Thanks again Alexander Quote Link to post Share on other sites
unclepete Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Alexander Used call my old girl 'droopy drawers' after an enthusiastic run in with a level crossing. I can confirm that TR3a's do not land very well! Took three good sessions with Revington's chassis guru to get her all square and level again. I also had a similar problem with the rear springs which 'stretched' on one side requiring replacement. There are various very good methods of checking your chassis. Try them out and if it is out of true don't despair, you do not to strip back down to the bare chassis as there are ways of straightening her back up. good luck Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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