pinky Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi my handsome friends well today i started the car after removing the engine to resolve the oil leaks, when i rebuilt the engine last year the oil gallery screws were sealed with well seal every thing leaked it was a night mare. the engine ran well fully balanced stage three head spitfire bearing etc etc i carefully cleaned everything and used silicone on gaskets seals gallery screws and guess what no oil leaks regards happy pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi Pinky Fantastic news bet you are chuffed to bits I will give you a call tomorrow & catch up. Happy New Year to you both. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi Pinky Fantastic news bet you are chuffed to bits I will give you a call tomorrow & catch up. Happy New Year to you both. thanks mike i will look forward to that, i thought you had gone to heaven, pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi Pinky Good news Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi my handsome friends well today i started the car after removing the engine to resolve the oil leaks, when i rebuilt the engine last year the oil gallery screws were sealed with well seal every thing leaked it was a night mare. the engine ran well fully balanced stage three head spitfire bearing etc etc i carefully cleaned everything and used silicone on gaskets seals gallery screws and guess what no oil leaks regards happy pink i once used silicone on the sump gasket. the next time i took the sump off 1/2 the oil pump pick up [narrow early type] was blocked up with bits of silicone. it might pay you to run it a while. drop the oil and have a peep through the drain hole. [i presume youve got the early sump with the bolt at the front]see if theyres any bits of silicone stuck to the wire mesh pick up richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 I'm convinced that Wellseal can only be used where there was never going to be a leak in the first place!! Hermatite Red that's the stuff...untouched by petrol or oil, good for water joints, sets to soft solid that stays put,and yet easy to break the joint again and washes off with Meths.......... what more could you want!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jobster Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi my handsome friends well today i started the car after removing the engine to resolve the oil leaks, when i rebuilt the engine last year the oil gallery screws were sealed with well seal every thing leaked it was a night mare. the engine ran well fully balanced stage three head spitfire bearing etc etc i carefully cleaned everything and used silicone on gaskets seals gallery screws and guess what no oil leaks regards happy pink I only have 2 things to say: 1. How can you start a car after having removed the engine? 2. Enjoy it while it lasts (in this case you CAN hold your breath ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Well done Pinky... I recently had to reset my cam timing cause it was 14 degrees out.... This appeared to be one tooth on the timing chain...we'll see. It's amazing how adept we get after removing parts a number of times, you must know what I mean.... Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 and guess what no oil leaks regards happy pink If its a triumph it can only mean the sump is empty seroiusly though well done Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave I O W Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Well done Pink Good news. Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Fingers crossed Pink, let's hope it all comes good this time Rob, comparing Wellseal and Red Hermetite (NLA, by the way, replaced by Hylotyte Red) is an apples and pears routine - they're different products and not designed for the same job, even if their applications overlap. Wellseal is designed primarily for sealing smooth machined joint faces, if you're building an engine to blueprint standards then Wellseal should suffice for most aspects. Hylomar Blue next, in terms of coping with less fine mating surfaces and potentially more movement. Then it's Hylotyte Red if you have to reuse old component past its best, or throwing stuff together in an emergency, it'll deal with bigger gaps and more movement. Silicones are for relatively large gaps, and/or lots of movement, or for making substitute gaskets . . . belong with the lump hammer and wrecking bar, tools of last resort for rock apes like yours truly, but not really in the engine building toolkit !! Good for bathrooms, though . . . No doubt Pink used Hylomar or Hylotyte rather than pukka silicones. Great stuff Wellseal, but think of it as a precision tool not a blunt instrument. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Wellseal,Hylomar,Red H - and Aradlite... Reminds me of trying to cure head gasket problem with poorly-seating wet liners on DB2/4. First three sealants would fail after few hundered miles. Araldite would last 2000miles before water jacket pressurised again. No wet liners on TR6 -hurrah!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Wellseal is designed primarily for sealing smooth machined joint faces, and is of no use whatsoever when putting together an agriculturaly heratiged TR engine!!! Just joking Alec, but you'd be hard pressed to find a smooth joint face inside a TR engine..... if it won't fit use a bigger hammer!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hi Rob, there's a lot of truth in what you suggest !! To be fair, I did employ the reservation "if you're building an engine to blueprint standards" . . . . and all too clearly you understand why . . . . What a TR specialist with decades of experience and with the availability of a top notch machine shop can achieve is one thing, given a sufficiently well padded chequebook, but Average DIY TR Man in contrast has to compromise in terms of budget and quality alike. That's life, for most of us, as dictated by the chancelloress of the domestic exchequer. But jesting apart, it's all too easy to use the wrong jollop for the particular task in hand, and then be disappointed when it doesn't bloody work. Ask me how I know . . . . It helped me considerably when a vastly more competent engine man clarified some of the basics regarding the various categories of sealant available. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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