Rear brake back plates

[TRbeginner]

Ive recently acquired a TR5 (good condition) as a longe term improvement project, with a view to retaining originality.

 

As a small introductory task Im overhauling the rear brakes and was wondering what paint/finish to apply to the brake back plates which are currently 100% covered in surface rust. Any suggestions please?

 

Also any views on using silicon fluid - opinions seem to vary.

 

Many thanks

 

Dave

[johnny250]

Hi Dave,

Vigorous wire brushing followed by Hammerite black gloss spray can will last for quite a while..... or get them (and any other removable bits you fancy) blasted and powder coated.

Silicon brake fluid.....(Oh no, not again..... )Ive used it for years and my brakes are very good..... no corrosion problems anymore but may be repainting problems in the future.

If you do use it, fill the system by gravity overnight without excessive pumping/bleeding.

 

john

[stuart]

Black smoothrite and NO!!.

Stuart.

[RogerH]

....grit blast, cadmium (or similar) plate, decent black finish also NO.

 

Roger

[pfenlon]

I thought Cadmium plating had gone out now, for usual H@S reasons, it is a pretty harmful process, nickel plating has taken over, looks similar but

 

doesnt last very long.

 

always used dot4 dont know about silicon fluid except that many people dont care for it, but it works for John, so whatever floats your boat.

 

PS no one will give a flyer what colour your backplates are unles you join the polishers.

 

Good luck with you restoration.

[TRbeginner]

Thanks for the responses - all interesting and varied!

 

Probably will go with the powder coating depending if cost is 'reasonable'. My gut feeling is that it will be a more resilient finish - I dont intend becoming a 'polisher' and want to use the car, so I'm trying to take future wear and tear into account with what I do. Tell me if Im on the wrong track here though please!

 

Pity that silicon fluid seems to get the thumbs down. The reason Im doing the brakes is due to a fluid leak which has damaged some paintwork. Why is silicon fluid so 'available' if it gets such a negative press?

 

Thanks again guys,

 

Dave

[RogerH]

...If you go down the powder coat route be careful who does it.

Your back plates will be quite rusty and this needs to be completely removed and protected.

If any rust gets under the coating you may not notice it until the plate disappears due to the rust.

A simple paint finish will reduce the effects of rusting but will make it obvious if the metal maggot attacks.

 

Cad plating is still around (certainly in industry) however as I said a similar plating (such as Nickel) would be beneficial.

 

Roger

[johnny250]

 

Pity that silicon fluid seems to get the thumbs down. The reason Im doing the brakes is due to a fluid leak which has damaged some paintwork. Why is silicon fluid so 'available' if it gets such a negative press?

 

Thanks again guys,

 

Dave

 

 

I suspect that lots of people have not even tried it....I used Automec in my previous GT6 and now the 250....has never let me down....and the brakes have had a pasting.....as already said, I think the secret is not to get it full of bubbles by rushing the bleeding. If you fit a long piece of clear pipe vertically from the bleed nipple (one at a time in recommended order)keep the reservoir topped up and leave gravity to fill the system, the air in the brake pipes is gradually pushed out as the fluid fills the system. Then shut off the nipple when the bubbles stop rising in the clear tube. No need for pumping the pedal etc. until the complete system is full. Takes longer but gives great brakes. All brake/clutch components were new for the 250, I don't know how easy it would be to clear out the original cr**py stuff.

 

I understand that it can be a bugger to prepare for painting in the future.... depends upon your priorities really. The area beneath the original brake master cyl. was like a lace curtain previously with all that encouragement to rot.

 

john

[88V8]

Smoothrite is a good 'quick fix' and excellent for instance on iron window frames, but too brittle imho for use on or under the car.

Powder coat can be OK depending who is applying it, but it can also be brittle, and prone to eventual debonding after which it provides superb incubation for rust.

 

This stuff is immensely durable and resilient and you can apply it yourself

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm

 

Silicon, some like it some don't. Been some long debates on here as you'll see if you use the Search.

Not all new brake components are happy with silicon.

No car manufacturer uses it.

If you're going that route I believe you need to renew every cylinder/caliper and all the flexible piping, and do a jolly good flush out.

Another problem with silicon is that while DOT fluid may take the paint off, dripped silicon makes it pretty well impossible to put new paint on.

 

And, if you're that worried, what about the clutch? Leaking clutch master will bugger the paint just as effectively.

 

If you change the DOT fluid every year (brakes and clutch) to obviate moisture build-up, the life of the system will be hugely extended and nothing will leak.....

 

Ivor (DOTy still)

[stuart]

Reference silicon fluid you might be interested in this AP Racing

Stuart.

Edited October 9, 2010 by stuart

[pfenlon]

Reference silicon fluid you might be interested in this AP Racing

Stuart.

 

 

Well I dont use silicon fluid, and after reading that little article, I was surprised to find that no car manufacturer uses the stuff.

 

Is the only reason folk use it because it doesnt harm paint? amazing.

 

AP are experts you just have to listen to them dont you? but.

 

Johns been over the hills and far away without a problem.

[RobinTR6]

Cant disagree, I am not an expert but AP are. I also subscribe to the 'if it aint broke' and thats not to say that improvements arent woth pursueing. Barkes are critical, all the usunal stuff applies but always take account of the experts. Well manitined barkes work just fine as does the non-silicone fluids.

 

Robin

[TRbeginner]

When removing/refitting the hub/halfshaft assembly (prior to removing the back plates) is it simply a question of removing/refitting the 6 retaining nuts or do I have to worry about orientation for refitting? I'm assuming its straightforward and the shaft is aligned with a key and there is only one orientation (rather than many splines)?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

[pfenlon]

When removing/refitting the hub/halfshaft assembly (prior to removing the back plates) is it simply a question of removing/refitting the 6 retaining nuts or do I have to worry about orientation for refitting? I'm assuming its straightforward and the shaft is aligned with a key and there is only one orientation (rather than many splines)?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

 

 

The shaft will only go in one way David, remember dont overtighten the nuts or you will have to get the stud holes helicoiled.

 

If you can put some pics up of your trusty steed, I'm sure we would all like a gander.

[88V8]

When removing/refitting the hub/halfshaft assembly (prior to removing the back plates) is it simply a question of removing/refitting the 6 retaining nuts or do I have to worry about orientation for refitting? I'm assuming its straightforward and the shaft is aligned with a key and there is only one orientation (rather than many splines)?

 

If you don't already have one, I recommend you buy a copy of this. Known as the Brown Bible, or BB for short.

You may find a used copy cheaper in the usual places.

Beware, some of the cheap copies are A5 which is fine for the glove box, but not so great for the garage.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3a5ed94e7f

 

The shaft is multi-splined, there is a master spline it only fits one way. Don't get dirt in the splines.

The boot that protects the splines may be held on with ye olde wire ties, cable ties are OK as a replacement.

While the shaft is split, regrease it with CV moly grease. This is an annual task.

 

If the outer uj has a grease nipple (it shouldn't) grease it, as you can't with the hub in place. Better still, take it to a propshaft specialist and get it replaced with a non-greaseable one. If there is no grease nipple, forget the foregoing.

 

When refitting the hub use new nylocs. Every time you remove a nyloc anywhere on the car, best renew it. They can be used up to three times, but how does one keep count.....

Tightening torque for the six nuts is 16 ft/lb max, down to 12 is OK.

An accurate low-range torque wrench will be needed. Money spent on tools never wasted.

 

Ivor

[TRbeginner]

Hi All

 

Many thanks for the advice and interest shown to date. It's my first time using this forum in anger and refreshing to find so many helpful people.

 

The conclusions so far are powder coated back plates (£40 including blasting the drums) and DOT hydraulic fluid.

 

My last question regarding this task is about brake drum run out. I have asked my local machining company (Redman's, Fleetwood) to check ovality. I understand (from Moss) that if required, max 0.010" can be skimmed from the drum to remove run out. Redman's have asked if I can find out what the internal diameter of a new drum should be so they can assess whether the drum has been skimmed previously - it is not visible to the eye. can anyone help please?

 

I have attached photos as requested for those who wanted a gander - the black lab wasnt included in pthe purchase but seems to have claimed the passenger seat as her own!

 

Many thanks

[stuart]

I wpuld change the spacing on the number plate before you drive it as Pete Fenlon has found to his cost, the "Old bill" in your area seem to be a bit hot on things like that.

Stuart.

[TRbeginner]

Stuart

 

That's as bought from Hertfordshire and has already crossed my mind that it maybe an excuse to pull me. Maybe they have better things to do down south where I sourced the car. Dont know what Pete Fenlons story is but when you see some of the plates around here maybe he was just unlucky - will give it some thought......

 

D

 

 

I wpuld change the spacing on the number plate before you drive it as Pete Fenlon has found to his cost, the "Old bill" in your area seem to be a bit hot on things like that.

Stuart.

 

[88V8]

That's as bought from Hertfordshire and has already crossed my mind that it maybe an excuse to pull me. Maybe they have better things to do down south where I sourced the car. Dont know what Pete Fenlons story is but when you see some of the plates around here maybe he was just unlucky - will give it some thought......

 

He got an on-the-spot.

Keep those plates in the boot for shows.

 

Ivor