Engine, gearbox and brakes

[Nigel 628]

WKE's new engine and box should be ready soon, TRE inform me, so it'll be all hands to the workshop to get the poor old long-suffering donk pulled out and the new one installed over in a couple of weeks time. (I'm keeping the old engine as a spare, Stuart, she's still running so might as well mothball her just in case!) I am dropping the overdrive; I've never used it on any of the road or stage rallies I've done so far so deleting it will save a lot of weight and eliminate a potential source of unreliability, as well as saving a lot of money having it upgraded to competition spec.

 

In the meantime I've been having a little trouble with the adjustable dual circuit pedal box; the brakes need some setting up; I fitted it before the last rally but although the pedal was rock solid it needed the strength of Hercules to even pull the car up at all. The original master cylinder is 0.7" bore, and the twin new ones are 0.625" each, so according to hydraulic theory it should make the brakes more powerful still, given that nothing else has changed. One smaller bore m/cyl on front brakes only should be better than the original bigger bore single m/cyl working on all four brakes, but WKE stops OK with the original setup and is impossible to stop quickly with the new one. In fact, owing to lack of experimentation time I re-fitted the original master cylinder for the Rally of the Midlands. Which made it even more scary with the high-speed tyrewall chicanes at Mallory, especially as we later discovered the single brake pipe tube nut into the master cylinder was leaking and wouldn't tighten further! If that had failed we would have been straight through the tyre wall like an Exocet missile!

 

I don't want to revert to power assistance as it would ruin the 'feel' of these sixties brakes and anyway that would be masking the problem rather than solving it. Fitting smaller bore m/cylinders may work but Willwood don't make anything smaller than 0.625" and AP Racing ones are over £200 a pair - and who can say if they will solve the problem? I need to experiment with the balance on the system as well, it could be that has a significant effect.

 

Any experienced advice from rally and race TR drivers on this subject would be very welcome!

 

I'm hoping I may be able to do the HRCR North Yorks Classic road rally on August 1st (if I can find a good navigator!) which would be an ideal chance to get the new motor settled in before we start giving it death on the stages; I'm still aiming for an entry on the Neath Valley Historic Stages on 14th August as the first event for the rebuilt car. Interestingly, as a forest rally I will probably be taking it more easily at least at first; the two tarmac rallies we've done this year have been remarkable for the rate of car attrition, they seem to be far harder on the cars than the gravel events.

 

Nigel

[TR 2100]

The original master cylinder is 0.7" bore, and the twin new ones are 0.625" each, so according to hydraulic theory it should make the brakes more powerful still, given that nothing else has changed.

 

Hi Nigel,

 

Err, I don't think so.

 

Original area of bore 0.49sq.in. New bore area 2 x .39sq.in = 0.78sq.in.

The same pedal force is now spread over a larger area.

 

I have the TRE twin bore set up. Micro cylinders, can't tell you the diameter,

but they are supposed to give a similar braking force to the original .70" bore.

 

Steve/Simon will be able to clarify. I'm surprised they haven't mentioned this

already.

 

AlanR

Edited July 3, 2010 by TR 2100

[Malcolm Tatton]

Err, I don't think so.

 

Hi Nigel,

 

Don't think it's as straight forward as that. Isn't the hydraulic efficiency based upon the surface area at the master cylinder compared to the surface area at the brake cylinder/caliper.

 

As you move from a single master cylinder to a twin cylinder system I would think that the effect is different for front and rear because of the vastly different surface areas of calipers and wheel cylinders. Haven't done any sums though!

 

If you want to try different master cylinder bore sizes speak to Mick or Phil at RACE in Knypersley, I think that you know them anyway, but they stock different sizes of cylinder, (either Wilwood or they do a girling copy).

 

Having said that I have a TR Enterprises twin cylinder set up and it worked straight from the box, but then I don't normally need to stop as quickly as you!

 

thanks

 

Malcolm T

[Nigel 628]

Thanks for your replies. One interesting result so far is that I am getting as many different opinions as the number of people I ask! About five so far, not all TR people either.

 

The pedal box, incidentally, was not supplied by TRE but is a high quality, proper dedicated TR4 item from a reputable specialist. All cars and drivers vary, especially when it comes to competition use, so these things are always a matter of experimentation. I simply didn't have the time to fiddle before the rally two weeks ago, but now I have a couple of weeks before the new engine is ready I shall re-install it and have a proper play. I would just like to hear other experiences in setting such things up.

 

I think Malcolm puts his finger on it when he says I may need to stop quicker than most! I'm guilty of a little exaggeration in my original description; in fact the brakes worked fairly well straight away and it's quite possible to pull the car up OK, the pedal was very firm only an inch or so from the top but it did need a much stronger push to bring the car up well - although the original brakes are very spongy so it's a little unfair to make a direct comparison. I was able to drive in normal traffic without much trouble. BUT: it was not possible to make the car stop quickly, certainly not to rally standards. Locking wheels is not an option even if you wanted to, any wandering cats would end up flat!

 

I'll get the car on the ramp and give it a post-event checkover, then refit the pedal box and do some more testing. By the way, the .625 (5/8") cylinders are the smallest available except for AP 14mm ones which are what TRE use on competition cars. If you guys with TRE setups could check the sizes of your cylinders (usually stamped or cast on the outside of the cylinder itself) I would be interested to know.

 

Nigel

[TR 2100]

If you guys with TRE setups could check the sizes of your cylinders (usually stamped

or cast on the outside of the cylinder itself) I would be interested to know.

 

Nigel,

 

I'm some way away from my TR at the moment, so cannot check the

diameter but I do have a closeup photo of the set-up.

It doesn't show the diameter, I've checked, but I can send you a copy

if you wish - just PM me with your email address.

 

I'm sure this is the "racing" setup - I'm not aware of different diameters

being used. To give the same braking force, I reckon each cylinder should

be 12.5mm, or ½".I went for this setup for safety - twin brake lines.

 

Does your pedal box fix to the bulkhead in the same way as the original?

If so, you may like to think about some reinforcement. It seems the bulkhead

panel has a tendency to flex under heavy braking.

 

AlanR

Edited July 3, 2010 by TR 2100

[Nigel 628]

Thanks, Alan, it would be interesting to see the comparison.

 

I was not aware of the bulkhead flex possibility; I'll do some testing and reinforce it if there's a problem. Especially with the amount of force I need to use to stop it at the moment! Glad you mentioned it. I'm finding just how much difference there is between modern car design and these old sixties classics; mind you they didn't have things like cadcam back then, plus again I am quite aware that I am putting it under stresses far greater than even fast road driving by doing stage rallies with it. However, the long term plan is to fit a new chassis over next winter as the old one is rather tired and well-patched, so I can give the bodyshell some remedial work whilst it's off. It's interesting how much strength and stiffness the full roll cage adds; I am told it can be impossible to open a TR4's door when suspended on a wheels-free car lift, but WKE's doors open perfectly. The cage mounts directly to the chassis of course.

 

I put WKE on the lift at my workshop yesterday; I noticed that the inside of both front brake discs had been fouling and grinding flats on the large washers on the rear of the fore-and-aft trunnion bolts quite badly, I haven't noticed that before. I know we had a hard landing on the nose after the big bridge jump (photo link in my Rally of the Midlands post), and later I shaved a tyrewall chicane at Mallory Park too closely. A big bump, and the top two tyres flew off, but at the finish I was surprised (relieved!) to see no damage to the front wing so the leading edge of WKE's front tyre must have hit them on lock. So I will check the tracking as either incident could have caused toe-out, yet the discs have been lightly grazing the front trunnion washers as well.... we have pretty much destroyed the brand-new front tyres but they are softish Dunlop tarmac rally racers and did get around 100 miles of thrashing so that's not neccessarily the tracking out. (It would be nice if it was the tracking and I can expect more from these tyres! They were brilliant, hanging on effortlessly flat out round Mallory, my poor old engine didn't even have the power to get the tail out on the bends, but it's going to be an expensive do at this rate....having to use 70 series tyres doesn't help.) There is no apparent damage to the front of the chassis or suspension mounts; the sumpguard mounts are well bent but I designed them to bend in extremis rather than the chassis!

 

Curious. Any theories other than tracking, anyone?

 

Other than that, WKE is remarkably unflustered by her experiences and I continue to be impressed.

 

Nigel

[Dazzer]

Hi Nigel

 

I've just been out to check the clearance of the trunnion washers on our TR4 which has the Revington suspension package, and the clearance is pretty tight against the discs in full lock.. 2mm? However, I don't think you've bent anything, I did fit larger lock stops, primarily to stop the larger 6J wheels fouling on the top wishbone edges, it does also limit the travel at the bottom end next to the trunnion washers. Failing this you could try smaller trunnion washers. Just a thought. The larger lock stops are available from Revington, a nice easy fix as well, bolt on. It increases your turning circle slightly but not that you would notice. We've done many an autotest, it's not a problem.

 

Nice pictures with air underneath WKE, I'm envious.

 

Might see you on the Yorkshire historic in the 2000 MK 1 BFC 22C. Off to the Ross Trader on the 10th... with a noisy diff, fingers crossed she'll make it...

 

Cheers

 

Darren

[stuart]

Nigel check that you do actually have the lockstops fitted as they are very often missing. The original TR4 ones should be eccentric so can be set to stop the discs hitting anything (they do take careful setting up to ensure you dont lose any lock as well) As Dazzer has mentioned either smaller washers or grinding a strategic flat on the washer will help, as well as careful orientation of the castle nut, both can make quite a difference.

Stuart.

[Nigel 628]

I did have a look at the lock stops having discovered the washer problem. However they are both intact and look perfectly normal, not distorted or damaged in any way, and work OK. The rear washers on both sides have had about 3-4 mm ground off together with a matching chunk of the visible bush flange behind; the damage is only a whisker short of kissing the trunnion housing itself. The bolts are not touched. The top wishbone flanges are trimmed and bolts shortened, no sign of a problem there.

 

I didn't know the lock stop collar was eccentric but they clearly haven't been moved so there has been no change before or during this rally. I'll have a closer look this week. I did think of making a bigger collar but was reluctant to lose any lock as the TR doesn't handbrake on tarmac too well (especially with those tyres!) but Darren's comment on this is reassuring.

 

I'm just puzzled as to why this has happened now but not on previous events. I can cure the problem with larger diameter lock stops of course, but I want to find out why it's happened or I may just be masking a more fundamental problem. The only change from previous events was the new tyres: as I said they were extremely grippy so do you think that the suspension was stressed to the extent that there was more flexing in the system than before? I've attached a photo taken by Sgt Alan Pike at Bramcote army barracks special stage which shows the sort of stresses the front suspension was under taking ninety degree bends at speed on sticky race tyres: the n/side wheel looks like it's right over on to positive camber!

 

Good luck for the Ross Traders, Darren, will it be the first in the 2000? Will the scrutineers pass it? There was a letter in the HRCR 'Old Stager' magazine this month from a guy with an original BMC Landcrab 1800 from the '68 London-Sydney and the '70 World Cup Rally, he's used it for road rallies but now sees it being banned by the MSA because it's red with a white roof, black bonnet, white door squares and no bumpers. I thought of you when I read it!

 

Regards

 

Nigel

 

 

Edited July 5, 2010 by Nigel 628

[stuart]

Nigel in that case I would be looking at the stub axles for flexing (Heavy duty ones are available together with larger bearings and spacers) and/or the uprights are starting to bend. TR4 Tony may have had experience of this.

Stuart.

[Dazzer]

Hi Nigel

 

I reckon you're just getting faster and faster and pushing the WKE to the limit... bring it on.

 

As Stuart says could be something flexing, I guess you've checked the wheel bearings... Perhaps check if the stub axles are securely attached! Might sound daft but I've come across a couple of instances of not much more than hand tight suspension parts recently.

 

Yes the Ross Trader is the first with the 2000 and out of 46 cars we are no 46, there's only one way to go from here... Chickened out with the LSD diff I took it out today and dropped it off at Vesseys for the once over, will re fit it Wednesday also found a duff HD UJ after only 4000 miles, new parts are a nightmare.

 

The 2000 is now one colour and the bumpers are refitted. Makes a superb noise and plenty of sideways action, it's the hairiest 2000 I've driven, just have to point it in the right direction now!

 

All the best

 

Darren

[Tr4Tony]

Nigel

 

On brakes, you should be able to get a very good set up with what you have. the major change that I made to BST82B was on the rear brakes and here I reverted back to the TR3 10 inch drums as per the works TR4's, together with a lot of development on the actuation / balance and the cable handbrake arrangement. Lots to do here, but Im told by others that BST stops better than pretty much any other TR, even where they have all the Willwood bits (which are not legal for rallying).

 

My experience on gearboxes has been quite painful and I would caution you to look hard at the bearings and bushes in both the 'box and overdrive unit. If you are running big revs you need to look at the overdrive unit as the rear segment around the planet gears runs at 3 times engine revs and the bearings are rated to around half of that, so failure is a squirt round the motorway and a few long tests or short stages away from you.

 

The front suspension might also give you trouble (which is maybe why your brakes go off ?) ... a lot of this is caused by stub axle flexure and consequent pad knock. A number of ways to deal with this, but oversize hubs and stub axles are the sure solution - they do not bend, much less prospect of bearing failure due to the lower load. You need to keep an eye on the stub axles and bearing clearances (particularly if you are using sticky tyres and tend to wind the nose in hard with a heavy anti roll bar on, giving a high load on the bottom of the front suspension) as the large nyloc nuts which hold the hub (and wheel) on tend to loosen up and if not caught quickly snap off and part company with the assembly .... at this point you have 3 wheels on the wagon and approach the scenery quickly.

 

Perhaps we need to talk !

 

Regards

 

Tony

[Nigel 628]

Tony;

 

I've come to the conclusion that I should be able to get the brakes set up OK with what I've got too, so it's reassuring to hear you say the same! It needs more experimentation before talking about changing master cylinders, etc, and I didn't have the time for that before. Interesting to hear of your rear brake choice, I still have the TR4 drums. I'm advised the rears have a critical effect on the brakes as a whole. The handbrake is poor on anything but loose surfaces but I have some ideas there too; I have a 4A lever on the tunnel adapted to the single TR4 cable and linkage which I believe is the right combination to have.

 

The front suspension flexing is sounding like the most likely scenario, including the trunnion washer fouling. The brakes are either there right away or need a pump first, but still pull up OK and have never shown any signs of fading so it's got to be pad knockoff caused by perhaps the previous bend. It was more noticable on the last rally on the sticky tyres than on the previous one on SP82 gravel tyres, so the clues are there. I do indeed run a 1" front ARB, and the photo in my previous post sums up just the conditions you predict. I spanner-check regularly for loose nuts etc, especially after rallies; interestingly I readjusted the front wheel bearings before the last event and they are still spot on now, this has been the case with all rallies so far. But I've yet to strip the whole assembly for a proper inspection. TRE spacers are going in next and bigger spindles will be under consideration. I've had tyres come off before but never the whole wheel as yet......

 

Steve at TRE is building me a new gearbox based on a late casing and internals - with double layshaft roller bearings! He's selecting suitable ratios based on his experience with his old stage rally TR4 and did indeed advise me that with the new engine having a much higher rev limit it was quite likely the overdrive would blow so it would be best to do without. Anyway, I have found driving quickly round stages, it never even occurs to me to use the o/d as the torquey engine pulls hard in all four main gears - even when keeping to 5000rpm to preserve the poor old thing!

 

I'd like to try the North Yorks Classic, it depends on time/car in bits. Maybe I'll see you there.

 

Regards

 

Nigel

[Tr4Tony]

Hi Nigel

 

Sounds like youre on the right track with all of that ..... !

 

On the overdrive I really only use my on the way to and from events, transit sections etc. so Im sure doing without one is something to live with .... the one thing I would say is that od 2 and od 3 are very useful on the fast smooth stuff where you get a bag of revs and speed on quickly and need to keep the engine boiling along. On the loose the revs move around so much that the OD isnt clever. I have a 4 spd dogbox that ive used for loose stuff which was great, but very noisy!!

 

Do think about the big hubs as they do away with all the grief !

 

Regards

 

Tony

 

Tony;

 

I've come to the conclusion that I should be able to get the brakes set up OK with what I've got too, so it's reassuring to hear you say the same! It needs more experimentation before talking about changing master cylinders, etc, and I didn't have the time for that before. Interesting to hear of your rear brake choice, I still have the TR4 drums. I'm advised the rears have a critical effect on the brakes as a whole. The handbrake is poor on anything but loose surfaces but I have some ideas there too; I have a 4A lever on the tunnel adapted to the single TR4 cable and linkage which I believe is the right combination to have.

 

The front suspension flexing is sounding like the most likely scenario, including the trunnion washer fouling. The brakes are either there right away or need a pump first, but still pull up OK and have never shown any signs of fading so it's got to be pad knockoff caused by perhaps the previous bend. It was more noticable on the last rally on the sticky tyres than on the previous one on SP82 gravel tyres, so the clues are there. I do indeed run a 1" front ARB, and the photo in my previous post sums up just the conditions you predict. I spanner-check regularly for loose nuts etc, especially after rallies; interestingly I readjusted the front wheel bearings before the last event and they are still spot on now, this has been the case with all rallies so far. But I've yet to strip the whole assembly for a proper inspection. TRE spacers are going in next and bigger spindles will be under consideration. I've had tyres come off before but never the whole wheel as yet......

 

Steve at TRE is building me a new gearbox based on a late casing and internals - with double layshaft roller bearings! He's selecting suitable ratios based on his experience with his old stage rally TR4 and did indeed advise me that with the new engine having a much higher rev limit it was quite likely the overdrive would blow so it would be best to do without. Anyway, I have found driving quickly round stages, it never even occurs to me to use the o/d as the torquey engine pulls hard in all four main gears - even when keeping to 5000rpm to preserve the poor old thing!

 

I'd like to try the North Yorks Classic, it depends on time/car in bits. Maybe I'll see you there.

 

Regards

 

Nigel

 

[ianc]

I hate to disagree with Tony (he is much bigger and younger than me!), but I am convinced that the Works TR4s used the standard 9" rear drums. That is what is shown in the Homologation Papers (2 sets) which I have, and Graham Robson has confirmed that the drivers never asked for any change to the standard brakes.

 

My own experience comparing a disc-braked TR2 with a TR3 (10" rear drums) in the 1960s, was that my TR2 would stop faster than my brother's TR3 because his car locked its rear brakes and he lost directional control! He fitted smaller rear slave cylinders (0.625" diameter) in order to try and overcome his problem, but - although better - it didn't solve the problem. And 0.625" was the smallest slave cylinder available then.

 

Ian Cornish

[Alec Pringle]

Considering that braking systems were a favourite target of technical scrutineers in the 1960s, it hardly seems conceivable that Triumph might have tried getting away with 10" drums when 9" was the only homologated option. There were plenty of instances of other cars being disqualified for much smaller variations from homologated in the braking department !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Nigel 628]

Interesting. I've just been re-reading Kas Kastner's Triumph Preparation Handbook and he says the TR4 problem was too little rear braking on the standard setup because the pressure took slightly longer to build up in the rear brakes than the front. He wound on more rear bias and the on-road braking improved so they fitted bigger rear cylinders. I've had the same qualified advice elsewhere and am just about to swap the 0.7 wheel cylinders for 0.75 items, still on the standard 9" TR4 drums. I took the 9" rear drums as being correct, from the FIA homologation papers as Ian says, when applying for my car's Historic rally vehicle identity form, so that's what WKE628 is listed as having.

 

However, after safety, the second reason for fitting an adjustable dual circuit pedal box was that when on loose gravel stages I want the rear brakes to lock up first, as that is better for straight line braking on the loose and I can use it to set the car up sideways for the corners! Hopefully experimentation will give me two settings, one for tarmac and another for the forests. Which is where we are going in mid-August.

 

Incidentally, I found the lockstops on my TR were a bit loose and have re-adjusted the eccentric collars and added a spacing washer underneath as they were almost being overrun by the flats on the front hubs. The discs no longer touch the trunnion washers - but only because they have already been ground away! There's no sign of any wear on either surface, though. The new brakes should be all rebuilt, up and running by the weekend, then we shall see if there's any improvements.....

 

Nigel

Edited July 16, 2010 by Nigel 628

[Tr4Tony]

Ian et al (much as you may be smaller ....)

 

I can assure you on the 10 inch brakes matter ..... ! got the FIA paperwork and also some from the Shell 4000 rally in 1964 because I needed to check something one on of the other cars (some will know which one) and I have investigated both the theory, paperwork and actual practice of braking on the rear of the TR4 at quite some length !

 

The one thing the TR4's didnt have in 'Works' trim was the dual circuit braking system, but this is permitted under various rules and indeed I understand was used on the Le mans cars also.

 

Regards

 

Tony

[Nigel 628]

Must be time for an update!

 

The brakes are getting better, I put the dual circuit pedal box back on for the Malvern Autotest and had a fiddle with the adjustment so it wasn't too bad: after a damn good thrashing around the cones they are improving although still pretty hard. No problems on the tests but it was gravel and I think I underestimated just how hard you press the pedal in the heat of combat! The pads are needing replacement, I'm going to try another type (Green Stuff to Mintex comp). I am doing the North Yorkshire Classic road rally tomorrow so we'll see how it goes on the road. Me? A road rally? Yes, I want to try some more, they are much cheaper than stages, and this time I've acquired the services of a master class experienced navigator. The only trouble is the MSA have woken up and are acting on the rules at last and insisting on plain, one-colour cars. WKE's stickers have been removed or covered up and I'm hoping my white door number squares on a white car will be OK if I pull the black edging tape off. But then I'll have to replace it all for the Neath Valley Historic Stages in two weeks time....sigh!

 

The new engine is still not ready yet; I had a chat with Steve at Malvern, everything is done except the components for which he is depending on outside suppliers for and they are not coming through. He keeps apologising but I know it's not his fault and it'll be well worth the wait when it's done. In the meantime the old donk keeps getting pressed back into service. Keep your fingers crossed for it.

 

I've confirmed the trunnion-grinding to the lock stops. After Malvern the damage was even worse although I'd readjusted them even though they were almost in the right place; it seems the flat on the cast front hub has been worn away allowing more lock. Mainly because the stop collar is far too low so it only touches right on the bottom of the flat and all but overrides it. I've now put a longer bolt and three washers under the collar and it's better but not full contact yet...is this right? I shouldn't have to do this. I haven't had time to fit the TRE bearing spacers yet (I need to sort the current problem first - one thing at a time!).

 

TTFN

 

Nigel

[stuart]

Must be time for an update!

 

The brakes are getting better, I put the dual circuit pedal box back on for the Malvern Autotest and had a fiddle with the adjustment so it wasn't too bad: after a damn good thrashing around the cones they are improving although still pretty hard. No problems on the tests but it was gravel and I think I underestimated just how hard you press the pedal in the heat of combat! The pads are needing replacement, I'm going to try another type (Green Stuff to Mintex comp). I am doing the North Yorkshire Classic road rally tomorrow so we'll see how it goes on the road. Me? A road rally? Yes, I want to try some more, they are much cheaper than stages, and this time I've acquired the services of a master class experienced navigator. The only trouble is the MSA have woken up and are acting on the rules at last and insisting on plain, one-colour cars. WKE's stickers have been removed or covered up and I'm hoping my white door number squares on a white car will be OK if I pull the black edging tape off. But then I'll have to replace it all for the Neath Valley Historic Stages in two weeks time....sigh!

 

The new engine is still not ready yet; I had a chat with Steve at Malvern, everything is done except the components for which he is depending on outside suppliers for and they are not coming through. He keeps apologising but I know it's not his fault and it'll be well worth the wait when it's done. In the meantime the old donk keeps getting pressed back into service. Keep your fingers crossed for it.

 

I've confirmed the trunnion-grinding to the lock stops. After Malvern the damage was even worse although I'd readjusted them even though they were almost in the right place; it seems the flat on the cast front hub has been worn away allowing more lock. Mainly because the stop collar is far too low so it only touches right on the bottom of the flat and all but overrides it. I've now put a longer bolt and three washers under the collar and it's better but not full contact yet...is this right? I shouldn't have to do this. I haven't had time to fit the TRE bearing spacers yet (I need to sort the current problem first - one thing at a time!).

 

TTFN

 

Nigel

 

Sounds as if either the collars you have arent correct or the "Ears" on the uprights that it contacts against may have been damaged or the trunnion where the bolt for the stop goes in isnt cast correctly. I have just fitted a new trunnion on one side of my 4a after the IOW tour eat one and the contact patch of the stop to upright is quite substantial. Always make sure that the hexagons of the Nuts on either side of the trunnions are set so a flat is presented to the disc face as well.

Stuart.

[Nigel 628]

It definately doesn't look right. However it's ocurred to me I was checking it on my wheels-free two-poster with the suspension on full droop. I'll check it properly - on the floor - this week; I've been caught out with that one before!

 

Just a quick report - we did the North Yorks Classic yesterday and came away with a 5th overall. Well chuffed at that. All credit to my navigator, I didn't understand a word of it so just did as I was told! The threatened blitz on stickers/single colours/no stripes didn't materialise - just as well for some competitors!

 

Nigel

[stuart]

It definately doesn't look right. However it's ocurred to me I was checking it on my wheels-free two-poster with the suspension on full droop. I'll check it properly - on the floor - this week; I've been caught out with that one before!

 

 

 

Nigel

 

That shouldnt make any difference to the lockstop/upright ears issue.

Stuart.

[Nigel 628]

Well I didn't think so, Stuart, I suppose it was just wishful thinking!

 

I'll be doing a post-rally checkup tomorrow so I'll see what difference the mods I've done have made. However, like you say, I shouldn't need to be doing the mods in the first place.

 

Nigel

[Nigel 628]

The new engine and gearbox have arrived and are sitting on the floor of the workshop awaiting fitment, but that won't be until after the rally this weekend.

 

The post-North Yorks rally inspection revealed no further problems with the lockstops/hub interface problem, which considering the event involved quite a bit of autotesting again is a relief. The old engine is still going strong and I have every confidence in it for this weekend - I'm even considering treating it to it's first oil change this year......!

 

I'll let you know how we get on.

 

Nigel

 

PS The discrepancy between road and stage regulations for historic rally cars is becoming untenable so for that reason I have just acquired a tidy 1967 Mk1 Triumph 2000 to prepare for road rallies. OK, it's not a TR, but at least I'm keeping it in the family!