littlejim Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 This still has me puzzled. Before painting the passenger side door I needed to put back on. The gap at the front is nice and even, but at the back the bottom touches the body, the top has a 9.9mm gap. I have to figure out what I'm going to do. Currently undoing body to chassis bolts to see if that effects the gap. (Unsolicited advice will be gratefully accepted.) During the process I noticed one of the hinge to body bolts was missing. Looked to be 5/16 in diameter, but the other bolts wouldn't screw in to either a UNF 5/16 nut or a UNC 5/16 nut. The 'left overs' packet had one that fitted, but I'm still puzzled as to what the thread is. UNF or UNC has worked everywhere else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 Jim the door hinges should be 5/16" UNF, As to door fit have you replaced the sills as some of the repros do taper wrongly at the back end as well as not having the correct "cut in" for the wings. You may have to remove a shim from the mount under the "B" post or add one to the rear, but if adding to the rear make sure that it doesnt upset the amount of "view" of the rear chassis legs under the back panel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 (edited) That was quick Stuart. They wouldn't go through a UNF nut. I see 'NF' mentioned in a few spots does that have a different thread angle? The sills are hand carved with flap disks from my welding. Undoing the rear bolt that was pulling the body down to the chassis opened the gap at the top by a few mms. I was expecting the opposite. I've undone the three bolts at the bottom of the 'B' post but haven't been under yet to see if I put any Al shims in. That's for tomorrow. it is currently 'sink a few Tooheys Blues' time. Displaying a bit of chassis under the rear valance doesn't worry me in amongst all the other problems, Roger Williams would not be impressed. Edited January 30, 2010 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 (edited) That was quick Stuart. They wouldn't go through a UNF nut. I see 'NF' mentioned in a few spots does that have a different thread angle? The sills are hand carved with flap disks from my welding. Undoing the rear bolt that was pulling the body down to the chassis opened the gap at the top by a few mms. I was expecting the opposite. I've undone the three bolts at the bottom of the 'B' post but haven't been under yet to see if I put any Al shims in. That's for tomorrow. it is currently 'sink a few Tooheys Blues' time. Displaying a bit of chassis under the rear valance doesn't worry me in amongst all the other problems, Roger Williams would not be impressed. Jim you could always try a tap through the hinges and fit new bolts. If push comes to shove then helicoil/recoil the holes works fine as the hinges are thick enough. Sounds as if you havent got the right combination of shims somewhere. As to the rear of the chassis showing under the valance its normal to see up to an inch showing but you can sometimes get away with pulling the rear valance down a little to lessen the amount showing Stuart Edited January 30, 2010 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 In the hope that someone might learn from this, and get in a lot earlier, I’m putting up the gory details. Before I started the restoration the driver door gap looked like this. The door braces I fitted maintained the distance between ‘A’ and ‘B’ posts, in being a tight fit might have increased it slightly. What with learning how to pull the thing to bits, how to weld etc, etc, I left it like that while I repaired sills mudguards and whatever. Now that I am refitting the door I find I have kept the discrepancy, and may have slightly increased it. So I’m going to have to remedy it as much as I can via the body work. Obviously the best time to do something about it is when you are working on the tub. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Jim given the discrepancy between the top edge of the wing and the front end of the deck extension in the photo, if you have ended up with the same thing now I would be inclined to lead up the front edge of the wing to even the gap. Does your wedge and plate catch at the top of the door mate correctly because if they do then reshimming the body to close up the gap may not help and you may find the catch then binds. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks Stuart, I decided to shave the bottom edge of the door and lead load the top, as I've painted the wing already. The plate (hook) needed a single flat washer under each screw to sldie in nicely. At least the glass carrier in this door isn't rusted, so I can leave it attached to the glass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi Jim, this is a bit of a bodge but may help. If you put some packing between the lower fasteners of the rear wing to 'B' post attachment area this may force the lower part of the wing rearwards and widen the gap. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Hi Jim, me again! If you needed to pack the door anti-burst clasp then that would suggest the 'B'post is too far rearwards. So raising the back end as you first thought may be the way to go. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) Jim as it is all painted you could also try undoing the wing/guard attaching bolts and try and move the outer wing about a bit to reduce the gap at the top a bit. I notice in your photo that the top of the wing could come forward a few MM. You can then try and lose the rest at the other joins, its amazing what the chrome finishers will cover up especially the one under the bumper. Or you could leave it as it is, as Alec would say a proper factory finish "built by Brummies" Edited January 31, 2010 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Thanks for the extra ideas on what to try, chasps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Jim, I see from your other post that you have fixed the problem but when it comes to adjusting my panel gaps, I have found it a useful dodge to clamp a length of welding rod of appropriate diameter (flux removed) to the edge of the panel and then MIG weld it place before lead loading to smooth it off. What gap? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I see from your other post that you have fixed the problem but when it comes to adjusting my panel gaps, I have found it a useful dodge to clamp a length of welding rod of appropriate diameter (flux removed) to the edge of the panel and then MIG weld it place before lead loading to smooth it off. What gap? That IS the way to do it. Strength and corrosion free, as long as you clean off after welding AND after the lead filling. The 'tinning' process that is necessary to allow the lead to stick is a bit corrosive. You are far more aware of the door gaps when there is clean fresh paint visible through to the door posts. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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