AndyC 4A Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 I assume the pros and cons of using the adjustable trailing arm mounts has been discussed somewhere on the forum so I would appreciate it if someone could point me in that direction. I think I will need to consider them due to the amount of positive camber being displayed by my 4a. Are they worth it? Many thanks Andy C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 I assume the pros and cons of using the adjustable trailing arm mounts has been discussed somewhere on the forum so I would appreciate it if someone could point me in that direction. I think I will need to consider them due to the amount of positive camber being displayed by my 4a. Are they worth it? Many thanks Andy C Imho No, if everything else is right ie chassis etc you should not need them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Yes, they have been fitted to NLG cars and work well.Cured lots of problems.Ivor has also fitted them.I have a set and have not got round to fitting them yet. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyC 4A Posted January 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Thanks Guys, 15 all so far. Do know if there are any pics of them fitted as I'd like to see where the adjustable side goes in relation to the arm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Cured lots of problems Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Hi Harry ie ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hi Andy, Based in the saga that Ivor went through when setting his car up, I chose to fit them to mine too. They give a lot more adjust-ability than the standard notched brackets. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hi Andy, Based in the saga that Ivor went through when setting his car up, I chose to fit them to mine too. They give a lot more adjust-ability than the standard notched brackets. Cheers Tony Tony As RC and I agreed they are only used to compensate if something else is wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Tony As RC and I agreed they are only used to compensate if something else is wrong. That's why I chose to fit them, just in case.... I can adjust my camber with a bit more precision though...something you can't do with the standard brackets.. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 That's why I chose to fit them, just in case.... I can adjust my camber with a bit more precision though...something you can't do with the standard brackets.. Tony Oh yes you can and the front is more important than the back for true proper handling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Oh yes you can and the front is more important than the back for true proper handling Maybe I should have added 'not without removing the brackets'.... Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 I'd agree that they should not be required to compensate for some other fault, however I had a standard bracket sheer fairly recently (damn speed bumps and potholes). Figuring that if one went, the others would not be far behind I would probably need to buy a set and if one buys a set, one might as well get the adjustable ones - a point which you may like to consider. Jerry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Wish I'd known about them earlier, I'll be shimming the toe in to zero, and I guess mucking around with spring spacers to get the camber to zero or a bit negative. Don't know whether Tony's shot of the mudguard and the pool was taken early in summer, but suspect the water in the pool is just about worn out by now, with the hard time the sun is giving Oz this summer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 I assume the pros and cons of using the adjustable trailing arm mounts has been discussed somewhere on the forum so I would appreciate it if someone could point me in that direction. I think I will need to consider them due to the amount of positive camber being displayed by my 4a. Are they worth it? Many thanks Andy C Andy, have you recently refitted your rear suspension? Or perhaps replaced the springs? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 OK this is a new product to me,where do you get them from along with any information? Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Moss do them.I imported mine from goodparts in America before I discovered this.Setting up camber is a doddle.Just make sure the adjusting screw is free to turn or you will snap it off.How do I know??? Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Moss do them.I imported mine from goodparts in America before I discovered this.Setting up camber is a doddle.Just make sure the adjusting screw is free to turn or you will snap it off.How do I know??? Regards Harry TR5 Nutter And dont have the weight of the car on them as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyC 4A Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Andy, I have rebuilt the suspension, replaced the trailing arm legs and the "t" shirt plate, and despite clamping everyting down, triple checking measurements, replacing once side at a time and welding in short lengths, I still have am issue with positive camber, which is virtually the same both sides. No obvious issues with the arms so its probably down to something I did so I want to explore the issue of fitting these brackets. Has anyone got a picture of them fitted as I am not sure how the adjustable part clears the leg or the training arm? Many thanks Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4AIRS Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Here you can see a few small pictures of the Goodparts adjustable trailing arm brackets. I do have one question though. In this -beautifully enhanced- picture you can see my problem. When you screw the adjuster up or down, doesn't this cause a strain for the bolt at the other side of the bracket? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Here you can see a few small pictures of the Goodparts adjustable trailing arm brackets. I do have one question though. In this -beautifully enhanced- picture you can see my problem. When you screw the adjuster up or down, doesn't this cause a strain for the bolt at the other side of the bracket? No....that side of the bolt is also free to move up and down in it's own slot. You MUST loosen the bolt and nut BEFORE you turn the adjuster. As Stuart said, take the weight of the car off the suspension before adjusting..it makes it a lot easier... Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Andy, I have rebuilt the suspension, replaced the trailing arm legs and the "t" shirt plate, and despite clamping everyting down, triple checking measurements, replacing once side at a time and welding in short lengths, I still have am issue with positive camber, which is virtually the same both sides. No obvious issues with the arms so its probably down to something I did so I want to explore the issue of fitting these brackets. Has anyone got a picture of them fitted as I am not sure how the adjustable part clears the leg or the training arm? Many thanks Andy Hi Andy Do you know what rear springs you fitted? When I fitted uprated - but "standard length" - springs, I lost all of my negative camber and the handling was terrible. Basically they were not compressing enough. I fitted uprated lowered springs and regained my camber and now each corner of the chassis is the same distance from the ground, front and back. Do you have the body on the chassis at the moment? If not, that will tend to exaggerate the positive camber. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) No....that side of the bolt is also free to move up and down in it's own slot. You MUST loosen the bolt and nut BEFORE you turn the adjuster. As Stuart said, take the weight of the car off the suspension before adjusting..it makes it a lot easier... Tony Tony And has Jerry has found out the std ones can snap,so think about the others Edited January 27, 2010 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyC 4A Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Andy, as far as I am aware they are standard springs; I bought them from the "bring & buy " at Stoneleigh last year; they were labelled as standard 4a so how would I check? Number of coils and compressed length? And yes, the body is on the chassis, albeit not a full body as the doors are off, and the 4 wheels are each on car ramps so I can slide underneath easier. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robin Powell Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 I fitted the adjustable rear brackets to my car as the camber was out particularly on one side and found them easy to adjust and set the correct camber. The main reason for using them was convenience as I read that there are about 30 different combinations of the 1/2/3 notch brackets you can try and the thought of putting the trailing arms on and off a large number of times to get the right combination did not appeal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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