TR3BGeorge Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 Do any of you TR2-4a folks use an oil extractor when changing oil? I was given one for Christmas 2 years ago, and I LOVE it! You just stick the extractor tube down thru the dipstick tube, pump the lever a few times to get the syphon working, then sit back and think of the Queen while the oil drains out of the crankcase! My question obviously can only be answered by a extractor user, as I need to know: DOES THE EXTRACTOR WORK SUFFICIENTLY FOR REMOVING ALL THE OIL, or do I have to forsake the extractor and crawl under the car and remove the drain plug? I look forward to hearing from you. I don't know if you folks over there use them (extractors), but they are the cat's pajamas for changing oil!! Happy New Year. Drive safely. Remember those old Broderick Crawford saws from the 1950s, "A drunk driver doesn't drive his car - he AIMS it." And my favorite, "Leave your blood at the Red Cross, NOT on the highway." Peace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 (edited) Do any of you TR2-4a folks use an oil extractor when changing oil? I was given one for Christmas 2 years ago, and I LOVE it! You just stick the extractor tube down thru the dipstick tube, pump the lever a few times to get the syphon working, then sit back and think of the Queen while the oil drains out of the crankcase! My question obviously can only be answered by a extractor user, as I need to know: DOES THE EXTRACTOR WORK SUFFICIENTLY FOR REMOVING ALL THE OIL, or do I have to forsake the extractor and crawl under the car and remove the drain plug? I look forward to hearing from you. I don't know if you folks over there use them (extractors), but they are the cat's pajamas for changing oil!! Happy New Year. Drive safely. Remember those old Broderick Crawford saws from the 1950s, "A drunk driver doesn't drive his car - he AIMS it." And my favorite, "Leave your blood at the Red Cross, NOT on the highway." Peace. YES providing the oil is warm and of course the pipe is at the bottom of the sump pan.However without a magnetic sump plug? Edited December 29, 2009 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Do any of you TR2-4a folks use an oil extractor when changing oil? I was given one for Christmas 2 years ago, and I LOVE it! You just stick the extractor tube down thru the dipstick tube, pump the lever a few times to get the syphon working, then sit back and think of the Queen while the oil drains out of the crankcase! My question obviously can only be answered by a extractor user, as I need to know: DOES THE EXTRACTOR WORK SUFFICIENTLY FOR REMOVING ALL THE OIL, or do I have to forsake the extractor and crawl under the car and remove the drain plug? I look forward to hearing from you. I don't know if you folks over there use them (extractors), but they are the cat's pajamas for changing oil!! Happy New Year. Drive safely. Remember those old Broderick Crawford saws from the 1950s, "A drunk driver doesn't drive his car - he AIMS it." And my favorite, "Leave your blood at the Red Cross, NOT on the highway." Peace. I only use the extractor thing on my boats engine which has no easy means to get the oil out otherwise. For the car I use the drain plug, I like to see what's stuck to the plug (magnetic) and also I think letting the oil out in a rush might help a little at dragging out some of the sludge that tends to accumulate on the bottom. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Hi George, I don't use an oil extractor, but I can see the benefits in avoiding a messy job getting down and dirty in a home garage. If I did use one I'd still prefer to remove the sump plug about every third oil change. I normally jack the front of the car up and leave the plug out for about twenty minutes to drain every last drop. Regards, Viv. PS Mychael, happy to lend you a pressure washer mate, for any excess sludge on the bottom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3BGeorge Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Thanks, Guys. Neil, I don't know whether I have the magnetic plug or not. I will find out with the first oil change. I put one on my Miata (bought it new) and never really picked up anything on the magnet. Of course, the tolerances on a 1992 Japanese engine and a 1960s British engine are worlds apart. Mychael and Viv, you talked me into it! I think that I will jack her up and do it the old way. I like the "quicker flow" idea, and with the car jacked up, you KNOW that you are getting every possible drop of oil out of the pan. Thanks again, Guys. Well, now that I have another convertible, I will put my hard-top on the Miata for the winter. Normally, here in Texas, you can drive with the top down nearly all year. But, right now, it is in the low 40s and high 30s, so will go with the hard-top. My original convertible top doesn't have 100 hours on it. It was always a "third car" for me and the wife, so it was her coupe in the winter, with the hard-top, and my convertible in the summer, with the tonneau cover on. So, the convertible top was never - hardly ever - used. Again, Happy New Year to all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 Do any of you TR2-4a folks use an oil extractor when changing oil? I was given one for Christmas 2 years ago, and I LOVE it! You just stick the extractor tube down thru the dipstick tube, pump the lever a few times to get the syphon working, then sit back and think of the Queen while the oil drains out of the crankcase! My question obviously can only be answered by a extractor user, as I need to know: DOES THE EXTRACTOR WORK SUFFICIENTLY FOR REMOVING ALL THE OIL, or do I have to forsake the extractor and crawl under the car and remove the drain plug? I look forward to hearing from you. I don't know if you folks over there use them (extractors), but they are the cat's pajamas for changing oil!! Happy New Year. Drive safely. Remember those old Broderick Crawford saws from the 1950s, "A drunk driver doesn't drive his car - he AIMS it." And my favorite, "Leave your blood at the Red Cross, NOT on the highway." Peace. NO, not all of the oil. Most sumps have baffles to prevent oil starvation on sudden changes in direction. So, there is no way to be sure that the extractor hose actually reaches the very bottom of the sump and thus remove all of the oil. Another important issue, the extractor can't remove the heavier solids and sludge which migrates to the very bottom. However, in a fresh engine, using a high quality synthetic oil, not texas tea, sludge is minimized. As others have suggested maybe use this for your lawnmower and not your TR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 George - For the last 19 years (102,000 miles), I have changed the oil filter every time I drained the oil from the engine. This was usually every 3000 miles - or maybe a bit more. When you remove the oil filter casing, you get drips of oil. Lots of oil plus the final drips. I let this drain into my collector pan after I have drained the engine. So you have to get the TR up safely and crawl under to do either or both at the same time. I also change the oil in my gearbox + overdrive while I'm under there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) Another important issue, the extractor can't remove the heavier solids and sludge which migrates to the very bottom. However, in a fresh engine, using a high quality synthetic oil, not texas tea, sludge is minimized. As others have suggested maybe use this for your lawnmower and not your TR. Correct with the synthetic! but if the oil is warm there should not be an issue Edited December 30, 2009 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 30, 2009 Report Share Posted December 30, 2009 (edited) My question obviously can only be answered by a extractor user, as I need to know: DOES THE EXTRACTOR WORK SUFFICIENTLY FOR REMOVING ALL THE OIL, or do I have to forsake the extractor and crawl under the car and remove the drain plug? Alas, I'm not qualified to answer this as I've never used, nor never will use an extractor. However, not being qualified never stopped me sticking my head above the parapet, so I'm with Frank. I can't see it makes much difference to the effectiveness of an extractor whether or not the oil is synthetic, but majority opinion from previous discussions on this Forum suggests fully-synth is not suitable for the 4-cylinder TRs and I have also had several independent recommendations to avoid semi-synth. [back behind the barricades now ] PS ...and you thought this was an easy question, George? Edited December 30, 2009 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Oh and by the way George, I'm not saying how to suck eggs, but if you are jacking up the car for the first time, don't use the protection angle across beneath the radiator. It's not designed to take lifting weight. Go further back with a trolley jack under the frame cross member. (use backup stands or blocks of wood for safe working). While my car is raised for its annual oil change, I usually go around and lightly nip up the sump bolts. Not too tight or it distorts the sump between bolts, and then it leaks like a sieve. Happy New Year. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 ...if you are jacking up the car for the first time, don't use the protection angle across beneath the radiator. It's not designed to take lifting weight. ...especially if there's a possibility someone has previously removed it - anyone want a perfectly good radiator with an interestingly shaped bottom (done many years ago I hasten to add - I've learned to be a lot more careful since then ) BTW The radiator did take the weight but I wouldn't recommend it as a jacking point Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3BGeorge Posted December 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 Thanks for the jacking warning, Folks. Ed had already pointed that out to me when he jacked her up at his shop. While on this subject, I was also told to jack up the rear under the differential (rear end), which surprised me a little. Do you all concur? Happy New Year! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted December 31, 2009 Report Share Posted December 31, 2009 I was also told to jack up the rear under the differential (rear end), which surprised me a little. Do you all concur? Happy New Year! Its wot is ritted in da manuel Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted January 1, 2010 Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 George, mostly you only need to lift one side at a time, and a trolley jack on the frame just in front of the rear wheel works well. I use a plywood packer to avoid damaging the underside of the rail. Lifting this way gives maximum working clearance under the rear mudguard for brake inspections etc. If you move the trolley jack further along the frame you can lift both wheels on that side. The TR in-car jack was also designed to lift one side of the car, but in practice it depends a bit on how much fuel you have on board as a counterweight to the engine. I don't bother with it, as I have front carpets that extend under the seats, so access to the floor plug isn't simple, and I carry a scissor jack. It's OK to lift the back of the car on the diff pumpkin to get it up quickly, say to remove and clean (or repaint) the rear wheels. For jacking on the diff I used a spade bit to drill a hole in an offcut of timber so it would fit over the drain plug. Obviously the car can't be lifted on the pressed metal diff cover. Geez it's just past 2.30pm on New Year's day here, and I'm still a bit seedy from last night's party. Think I'll have a kip. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR3BGeorge Posted January 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 George, mostly you only need to lift one side at a time, and a trolley jack on the frame just in front of the rear wheel works well. I use a plywood packer to avoid damaging the underside of the rail. Lifting this way gives maximum working clearance under the rear mudguard for brake inspections etc. If you move the trolley jack further along the frame you can lift both wheels on that side. The TR in-car jack was also designed to lift one side of the car, but in practice it depends a bit on how much fuel you have on board as a counterweight to the engine. I don't bother with it, as I have front carpets that extend under the seats, so access to the floor plug isn't simple, and I carry a scissor jack. It's OK to lift the back of the car on the diff pumpkin to get it up quickly, say to remove and clean (or repaint) the rear wheels. For jacking on the diff I used a spade bit to drill a hole in an offcut of timber so it would fit over the drain plug. Obviously the car can't be lifted on the pressed metal diff cover. Geez it's just past 2.30pm on New Year's day here, and I'm still a bit seedy from last night's party. Think I'll have a kip. Regards, Viv. Thanks Viv, but I am hip on the jacking. I have already jacked up the front, and used two jackstands, when I replaced the two lower radiator hoses when I first got the car. I have four jackstands, for when I replace the tires. Also, I am familiar with the original jacking procedure, which, by the way, cannot be done on this car. The PO "cut to fit" his new carpeting. It is new, and looks good, but it is glued down to the floor. So, the floor jack holes are worthless, unless I want to rip out the carpet and mats everytime. The scissors jack he provided works perfectly, so I am OK. Actually, it is easier than the original jack. God, I remember a horror story back in 1963. I was on the Los Angeles freeway and got a flat tire, fortunately on the passenger side, so I pulled off to the side of the road as far as I could go, WHICH WAS NOT VERY FAR. I had my piece of 2 x 6 under the small jack base, with the right side jacked up, and the damn 18-wheelers were flying by, and the dang car would rock back and forth on that jack. Scary. This scissors jack is alot more stable than the original Triumph jack. Thanks again - going to bed. Have a car show tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 1, 2010 Report Share Posted January 1, 2010 trolley jack on the frame just in front of the rear wheel works well. That's the way to do it - as in "in front of". Behind the rear wheel may be more accessible, but the chassis slopes upwards behind the rear wheel so you incease the risk of the jack slipping. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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