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crankshaft oil seal conversion


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does anyone have experience of the lip type oil seal conversion, specifically the extra drain holes in the end cap? Looks like a lot of extra holes to drill in the cap, would welcome views from those who have fitted the conversion. JJC

 

Its pretty straightforward to a local machine shop, locate one who has done this before, holes are easy for them. it is a worthwhile mod too.

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Its pretty straightforward to a local machine shop, locate one who has done this before, holes are easy for them. it is a worthwhile mod too.

 

Thanks for your reply. Yes, agreed it's straightforward given the right vice and machine, but I was after experience with regards to the subsequent strength of the bearing cap. Just looking to be absolutely certain there's no danger of weakening it! I'm just very very cautious not being an engineer. There must be hundreds of these conversions out there, I was hoping for a few responses saying worked fine for thousands of miles. JJC

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Thanks for your reply. Yes, agreed it's straightforward given the right vice and machine, but I was after experience with regards to the subsequent strength of the bearing cap. Just looking to be absolutely certain there's no danger of weakening it! I'm just very very cautious not being an engineer. There must be hundreds of these conversions out there, I was hoping for a few responses saying worked fine for thousands of miles. JJC

One of my customers has it on his 2 and 16000 plus miles on no problems.

Stuart

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I removed the crankshaft from my 1958 TR3A in May 2000. I bought the new modern seal kit from Ken Gillanders in California but it came from Darryl Uprichard at Racestorations in UK. I followed the instructions after having the crank ground for the diameter of the new seal and while it was out, I also had the journals re-ground. I didn't have to drill any extra holes in the rear cap assembly for the new seal.

 

From 2000 to 2007, I drove my TR 51,000 miles and in 2007, decided it needed a ring job to cut down on the "blow-by" and reduce my oil drippage from the crankcase vent. But I had no issues with the modern rear seal. In 2007, I also changed the big end and con-rod bushing inserts while the engine was out and all apart and put in a new replacement rubber seal for the rear of the crankshaft. In the past two summers, I've driven a bit more than 8,000 miles and never had to add (top up) oil between oil changes. I'm using Castrol 10W30 and a 4 oz, bottle of ZDDP PLus for the flat tappets with modern oils each oil change. I never had an issue with the rear seal assembly as it came from Racestorations.

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I wonder if it's the same as the one from Moss? Their instructions definitely include drilling extra holes. They must have sold loads so I might call them and check. I've sent my end cap back to the machine shop for them to see what they think. I'll let you know what they say. JJC

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The machine shop I use have just come back. They say it's not obvious why the extra holes are needed but they are happy to drill the end cap. So assuming the original designer saw a problem with too much oil at the seal I've decided to go ahead and get the holes drilled. Unable to get through to Moss technical for their input.

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I haven't seen any comments before about drilling extra holes,

but I do recall previous threads (some time ago now, like one

year or more) highlighting some problems with exactly what

diameter to machine the crankshaft for the seal.

 

There haven't been any threads on the subject for quite some

time, so maybe the problem has been resolved.

 

AlanR

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