SteveM Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hi, guys, My temp and fuel gauges are wandering up and down randomly, so the voltage stabiliser is suspect. I believe it is on the back of the speedo but I am unsure of the easiest route to get at it. The Haynes manual is quite vague about this and just gives the procedure for removing the entire dash. I don't want to dismantle the dash only to find that there is a much easier route straight to it. Any suggestions for a short cut? Ta, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rex Wyer Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 From memory, you take the speedo and rev counter out first before you remove the dashboard, so just hands behind each and undo the nuts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hi, guys, My temp and fuel gauges are wandering up and down randomly, so the voltage stabiliser is suspect. I believe it is on the back of the speedo but I am unsure of the easiest route to get at it. The Haynes manual is quite vague about this and just gives the procedure for removing the entire dash. I don't want to dismantle the dash only to find that there is a much easier route straight to it. Any suggestions for a short cut? Ta, Steve Steve, You will have to remove the speedo. Disconnect the drive cable in the centre , big black cable, pull out the bulbs. The speedo stays in the dash by two or maybe three brackets on the rear, they will have knurled nuts on them. Once you have undone them the gauge will come out, sometimes it may also be stuck to the dash itself with a black gunky mastic, with a bit of wiggling it will come away. Good Luck Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 It would be a good Idea to disconnect the battery first before delving around under the dash. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Warrington Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I replaced mine a few weeks ago. Rather than replace it with the old electro mechanical thing, I used one of the new solid state electronic ones. It's a bit fiddly to get to, but not too difficult. Definately disconnect the battery first and then as others have said, remove the drive cable and the trip odometer reset from the dashboard (not from the speedo head as it will break, apparantly), fiddle about to find the clamps held on with knurled nuts and then the speedo will come loose. The lamps for the oil (or is is ign) and turn indicators will fall out and I think I needed to fiddle about with indicator and overdrive switches to remove the speedo, but there's just about emough room without removing the steering wheel. When I put mine back together, I muddled up the lights, so it took several attempts to get it all working again. I don't know why, but every time I fix one electrical fault on my car, I also seem to fix a few others that are seemingly unrelated. For example; replaced alternator and now the fuel guage reads accurately. And that 's after first replacing the voltage regulator (to get back onto topic) Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I replaced mine a few weeks ago. Rather than replace it with the old electro mechanical thing, I used one of the new solid state electronic ones. What you mean like a flasher unit Yes, you just take the speedo out. As Kevin said, take the trip cable out with it don't try to detach it from the speedo. Under the knurled nuts that hold the speedo clamp there may be some earth connections, make sure they get put back when you replace it. There should be a spring washer under each clamp. Oddly enough I found it easier to get at by sprawling on my back across the passenger seat, there seemed to be more room to get my head upside down under the dash. Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveM Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I replaced mine a few weeks ago. Rather than replace it with the old electro mechanical thing, I used one of the new solid state electronic ones. It's a bit fiddly to get to, but not too difficult. Definately disconnect the battery first and then as others have said, remove the drive cable and the trip odometer reset from the dashboard (not from the speedo head as it will break, apparantly), fiddle about to find the clamps held on with knurled nuts and then the speedo will come loose. The lamps for the oil (or is is ign) and turn indicators will fall out and I think I needed to fiddle about with indicator and overdrive switches to remove the speedo, but there's just about emough room without removing the steering wheel. When I put mine back together, I muddled up the lights, so it took several attempts to get it all working again. I don't know why, but every time I fix one electrical fault on my car, I also seem to fix a few others that are seemingly unrelated. For example; replaced alternator and now the fuel guage reads accurately. And that 's after first replacing the voltage regulator (to get back onto topic) Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveM Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. The Haynes manual suggests that removing the glovebox gives better access to the back of the instruments. Is this correct? - it is on the other side of the car from the speedo! There is no access from directly underneath? Cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. The Haynes manual suggests that removing the glovebox gives better access to the back of the instruments. Is this correct? - it is on the other side of the car from the speedo! There is no access from directly underneath? Cheers Steve Hi Steve The Haynes manual know's dick squat as does the brown bible imho I would read the previous post's and follow there advise Regards Neil Edited June 1, 2009 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. The Haynes manual suggests that removing the glovebox gives better access to the back of the instruments. Is this correct? - it is on the other side of the car from the speedo! There is no access from directly underneath? Cheers Steve Steve, removing the speedo is a 5 minute project and removing the glove box will just add time and complexity that you dont need. Just disconnect the battery, disconnect the trip cable from its bracket on the dash. Reach underneath and disconnect the speedo drive cable from the back of the speedo. Feel around for the two gnurled nuts and remove them and the clamps that are slid onto the threaded rods and that hold the speedo body tight to the dash. There will be a black ground cable on one of those clamps, it will come off when you remove the nut but dont forget to re-attach it when you re-fit the speedo. With the clamps removed you can pull the speedo body forward. Make sure the trip cable doesnt get tangled up and dont try and remove it from the speedo body. With the speedo pulled forward you can label and disconnect the lamps and the voltage stabilizer wires and fully remove the speedo. I usually just bunch up the wires including that ground wire and let them hang out of the speedo hole in the dash until I'm ready to re-fit. The voltage stabilizer is attached by one screw to the speedo body. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 As an addition to my (and other's) posts, I generally take digital photos of the rear of the instruments or any other electrical dismantling - quick and easy to refer back to... Not that I am forgetful or anything you understand! Removing the glovebox will help not one jot for the purposes of getting to the rear of the speedo... Hope it goes well!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fblue73 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 on the LHD models, it is just an act of feel and patience sticking one's fingers up behind the fascia and feeling for the knurled nuts. Once off, slide the brackets off and then carefully push the guage out through the veneer. I assume the RHD are similar. Try doing this with the US dealer installed air conditioning kit in place..what a pain in the *&^; however, since it is 92F today, the a/c is kindof nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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