JJC Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 After around 10 miles the TR2 loses power, seems still to be running on four, but no power, runs at low revs, backfires. Sometimes it clears itself and comes back to life. Sounds like ignition so.......Have replaced points, condensor, swapped cap and leads, new coil, and it still does it. Anyone experienced this? If so what's the answer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 After around 10 miles the TR2 loses power, seems still to be running on four, but no power, runs at low revs, backfires. Sometimes it clears itself and comes back to life. Sounds like ignition so.......Have replaced points, condensor, swapped cap and leads, new coil, and it still does it. Anyone experienced this? If so what's the answer? Have you changed the rotor arm for a known (Distributor doctor) good one. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Flashart Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I had the same fault and did the same parts changing as you. Turnes out to be a slight blockage of the needle valve on the rear carb. The car was running ok until it used all the fuel in the bowl and then would display the symptoms you describe. The fuel bowl would then re-fill slowly making the fault really difficult to find. Once found it took only minutes to take off the needle valve and clean out the crud. Flash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I had the same thing in my 4 was a fuel starvation thing. Check in the pump bowl to see if there is petrol in it when the problem occurs. If no petrol look into possible causes such as blocked petrol feed pipe from tank, debris or muck in the tank blocking the outlet or fuel pump not working correctley. Mine turned to be muck in rthe tank but it had been sitting for a few years Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I support Stuarts suggestion. Having said that: what's the history of the problem? Since this season? After pulling away at a traffic light etc? Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Bit of a long shot but what gap have you got in the tappets - are the valve/s being held open(ish) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Many thanks for all replies. Yes, rotor changed for one of Martin's red specials. History is car has been laid up for 9 months during my very slow gearbox rebuild. Carbs rebuilt by Burlens, one of the floats, would you believe, had a pinhole so it slowly sank causing petrol overflow. After that ran ok. Looking at the very helpful replies inclined to think it might be rubbish settling out in the tank working its way up to the carbs. Like the idea of the carb bowl emptying but would have thought it would have emptied before I left the drive! This TR2 does very few mpg. Will investigate carbs I think, and install an extra filter just before front carb. many thanks for your interest. Will let you know if I find it. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Yes, funny you should mention that, tappets are off. I've been meaning to do battle with them. Do you think that would cause it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) Similar problem both in a veedub and later, a boat was caused by a 'too long' fuel line allowing it to kink. Once the fuel bowl was drained not enough fuel got past the kink to provide high power. Edited April 30, 2009 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 And I had the same problem on a Healey 3000 when I partially crushed the fuel line that was routed along one of the chassis members. The car was fine for normal driving but if you put your foot down the surge of power was short lived. Before I discovered the problem, I had rebuilt the electrics and the carbs and even had the head off. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 1, 2009 Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 If your car was standing for 9 months with very little in the tank, the exposed surface may have rusted. I suggest you have a look in the pump's filter bowl - if there's a lot of muck in there, then, when you start to motor more rapidly, it will be forced upwards against the mesh filter and can block it to the extent that the engine will stall even when just tootling along at 50 mph. When the engine stops, the muck falls to the bottom. The process will be repeated ad infinitum unless you do something about it! If you find muck in the bowl, clean it out and see if the problem disappears. If so, you've solved the immediate problem, but you need to keep an eye on the bowl, as it could get re-charged with muck quite rapidly if the tank is shedding! If muck from the tank proves to be the problem, you need to remove the tank and treat it with something like Slosh Tank Sealant. The problem can only get worse and, eventually, your engine would stall repeatedly as the particles will completely block whatever filter is in the way! See my article in TRAction 144, repeated in Section K3 (page K10 onwards) of the Technicalities CD. If you don't have access to either source, e-mail me (ifcornish@btinternet.com) and I'll scan it for you. Since I treated the tank with Slosh Tank Sealant, my car has been running without fuel blockage problems for some 11 years. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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