Menno van Rij Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Well, Here I am with a brand new log in-name... Webby and I found out that there's something wrong with my original log in name, so he gave me a temporary one! Anyway, my tonneau is ready. And I've searched the web for the ultimate tonneau installation manual. And I couldn't find it. So, here I am, ready to read your experiences, 'do and don't' remarks etc. In fact, I even have no idea right now where to start installing the tonneau. Behind the seats, or at the base of the windscreen. I'm a tabula rasa, tonneau-wise that is Thanks in advance, Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Menno Mine's a TR4 but I'm sure the method is simlar.TR3 owners correct me if I'm wrong !! Choose a warm day or a warm garage, so the material stretches.Use an old sheet to keep your new tonneau clean whilst putting the fixings on. Place it on the car loosely to check that it is the right size before you start punching holes in it. On my 4, I started with the windscreen end, working out from the centre.Make sure the centre zip is done up tight for the whole length and aim for the fixings to be in the centre of the tonneau edge, i.e. between the two rows of stiching. You need to be able to stretch the material, to get it taut, so this is why the windscreen end is fixed first At the back, again centre fixings first, working to the outside,alternate sides.Mark the points with chalk and do each fixing one at a time, that way you can make sure you don't introduce any rucks or ridges in the material. Lastly the fixings over the doors, again centre first so that the material can be spread evenly between the fixings points. Take your time, taking it on and off everytime, to fix the next fixing, seems tedious but the end result is well worth it. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Hello Menno, Bobs advice is spot on, to help make the holes though I cut off the handle of a teaspoon and welded it to a spare clinch plate ie the plate that goes over the socket with the 4 ends on which bend over the clinch plate, under the cloth. This is easy to hold the "washer" in position when your helper is punching the four slits in the cloth with a sharpened electronic screwdriver, you have to have a helping hand or you wont get the tension right, It took me and a freind about 4 hours. Patience is a must, good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Menno - There are two styles of tonneau covers for the sidescreen cars. I'm referring in particular to the top at the rear of the door. There are tonneaus with no slit and others with a slit. For either style, you have to have the cover central so the pegs line up for these new snaps. Don't accept that the zipper is the true center. Lay the new cover onto the car and pull it tight for these two snaps and pegs. My tonneau is black on y black TR3A and is an original S-T cover with no slit. The other photo shows a tan cover with the slit. I don't know if the snap should be on the other piece because it may lift at speed in the wind. I know of one case where one of the covers with the slit had a problem with one of these snaps and pegs because it was off center. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Hi Menno, If you are doing a tonneau with the slit above the "S" capping, there's a relevant link to a TR2 we rebuilt at post 6 on the "TR3A Upper Steering Column" thread. That red tonneau was copied from a very worn and tatty original TR2 Geranium tonneau, and the detail was that the inner flap had a ring type metal fitting such as for a tent pole. This went onto the peg first, and the "lift the dot" fitting went over to lock it down. It seems though from Don's car that the slit in the tonneau must have been deleted by the factory sometime prior to 1958. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Menno Another bit to add to the advice, if you can get/ borrow the correct Lift the dot punch it will make life much easier.Remember that the prongs are not symmetrical.They are narrower/ wider/ top bottom to mirror the fastening plate. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peterc Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Hi Menno 2, Nobody has said what the orientation should be on the lift the dot fastners. I fitted mine with all the dots pointing away from the tonneau. It has been said that to be 'correct' the front and rear fastners should point sideways from the centre. What do other people think? Have you got your copy of TR Action yet? I am still waiting. Regards PeterC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 (edited) Well, this is the ultimate 'how to install a tonneau'- handbook, I think! Thanks guys for the info. One thing is certain: I'll wait until the weather has improved. My tonneau has the slit as well, I copied it from the same pic Don posted. Dunno how I got the pic. I've seen s/screen cars with several tonneaus more or less in place: the front half tucked away behind the seat. I noticed that all tonneaus without an slit showed stressed material near the lift a dot on the S capping. That's why I think the slit is a good idea. Although, I see Don's point! The 'tent pole' approach looks fine to me. The tent hole approach is on my mind for the fasteners near the window base too. My Spitfire had an original and factory fresh tonneau. The front was attached to the pegs with the formentioned tent hole rings. I always liked that. But perhaps there are serious thoughts against this solution among you guys. I like the idea of the alternate sides approach. And I can see why. Later today, I will post a picture of the tonneau (I'm not on my own computer right now). For now, I'm going to read my new issue of TRaction Menno Edited March 1, 2009 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Menno To pick up on Peter's point, I believe his fixing was correct...i.e.the dots to the outside edge of the tonneau, the way you would naturally pull the material to release it from the peg. The fixing should be the dot and narrower pair of prongs to the outside edge and the wider pair of prongs to the inside of the car.This way the spring clip inside the fixing apears to be bell shaped ,the mouth of the bell towards you, as you look towards the gearlever in the car. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Having experienced tonneaux with dots oriented each way, I find that having them pointing sideways (left and right) makes removal much easier. My current tonneau has them fitted with the dot downwards and it is more difficult to get sufficient leverage to release them, especially in cold weather when the tonneau is ultra tight. Opening the outside fastener first and working towards the centre provides a lot more material to yank on (carefully ) . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 That is the correct way to fit them with them facing each side. As its far easier and more natural to undo and as has already been stated in cold weather with them fitted downwards you can break too many fingernails to be funny Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 My black tonneau on my black TR3A, as in the photo above has never seemed to have any stress because there is no slit. When it covers the car, it it tight and there is no stress. When I'm driving, I usually have the back packed with all our luggage in medium to small bags completely filling the space to the rear of the seats right up to the top. And then I just stuff the tonneau cover (still zipped up down the center) in behind the seats. It has never been a problem and there is no stress. I have it admit that the red leather trim on the top corner of the "S" capping has developed a bit of patina but the judges at a concours cannot see this with the top erected. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Soffe Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 I have just had some paintwork done on my 3A and this meant that the top rail near the windscreen and also the front grille has been removed. Over the years both have been off for painting - 3 times in 25 years. This has meant that the holes for the lift the dot fixings have now got too large for the self tapping screws. My solution has been to use a "rivanut" set which has enabled the threaded type of l/t/dot to be used and set screws for re-fitting the front grille. I used 4mm nuts for the grille and 5mm for the l/t/dot fastners. The original threaded fastners were 2BA but are now only available in 5mm. For those who are not familiar with the rivanut system the nuts fit exactly the same way as normal rivets and the tool used is very similar to a normal rivet gun. The rivanuts are available in mm sizes right up to 13mm, at least and are a useful way of fitting "Blind fixings" Hope the above may help someone else who has trouble trying to fit the fastners to holes that have become too large due to constant use. Kind regards John Soffe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted March 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 (edited) Can someone post some pics of a tonneau installed at the windshield side? I had a discussion overhere today about the way the front of the tonneau should be fixed to to pegs. For those who are not familiar with the rivanut system the nuts fit exactly the same way as normal rivets and the tool used is very similar to a normal rivet gun. The rivanuts are available in mm sizes right up to 13mm, at least and are a useful way of fitting "Blind fixings" Yes. I know them: I used them installing p/cilps which hold the brake pipes on the chassis. Great invention! Menno Edited March 2, 2009 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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