PILKIE Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 (edited) HI ALL YIPPIE!!!!!!!!!! Well at long last its off to the paint shop!! its only been about a years delay what with being "made redundant" and spending my savings!! I am still fighting them for a payout!!! Ive known of a guy who is really meant to be a good painter,and looks after a collecting crazy Bristol QC's fleet on his farm near me!! It is a real treasure trove of cars,In his barn ive seen 2 restored 1920's Rolls royces, recently painted stag,3 Bristols,sunbeam alpine 1725,rochdale,750 club specials hill climb sprinters from the 50/60's,USA corvair coupe,p4,p5b rovers,morris 1000 convertibles,mgb,etc,etc!!! there are close to 100 cars outside!!! If I can get some pics,I will send them into discovered in the classic mags as a secret location!!! Anyway, its a who knows who situation,as my mate is married to his best mates cousin!! He is just about to do a rally prepped TR7 shell!!!! anyone on the forum know who owns it???????? He has come as promised and given me a price,and start and end date I am happy with "about the same as other quotes" but most important,I feel I can entrust him with my car. Almost a total bare metal repaint inc engine bay for £1500,he is not going to knock it out in a week,he wants it for 1 month to do it properly!! I am going to help where I can by masking & rubbing down bits etc!! I dont want to go silly and go for a concourse finish as that adds time and money,but what ive seen of his work,I will not be dissapointed with the job he does!! I should get it back at end of Oct,so I will take my time putting it all back together ready for spring!! I will post some photo's as it is being done on my resto link. Just got a few more little bits to remove,and then its off!! And while its gone.I will refurbish the Amplus speclift I bought!! HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN Edited September 15, 2007 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted September 16, 2007 Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 HI ALLYIPPIE!!!!!!!!!! Well at long last its off to the paint shop!! its only been about a years delay what with being "made redundant" and spending my savings!! I am still fighting them for a payout!!! Ive known of a guy who is really meant to be a good painter,and looks after a collecting crazy Bristol QC's fleet on his farm near me!! It is a real treasure trove of cars,In his barn ive seen 2 restored 1920's Rolls royces, recently painted stag,3 Bristols,sunbeam alpine 1725,rochdale,750 club specials hill climb sprinters from the 50/60's,USA corvair coupe,p4,p5b rovers,morris 1000 convertibles,mgb,etc,etc!!! there are close to 100 cars outside!!! If I can get some pics,I will send them into discovered in the classic mags as a secret location!!! Anyway, its a who knows who situation,as my mate is married to his best mates cousin!! He is just about to do a rally prepped TR7 shell!!!! anyone on the forum know who owns it???????? He has come as promised and given me a price,and start and end date I am happy with "about the same as other quotes" but most important,I feel I can entrust him with my car. Almost a total bare metal repaint inc engine bay for £1500,he is not going to knock it out in a week,he wants it for 1 month to do it properly!! I am going to help where I can by masking & rubbing down bits etc!! I dont want to go silly and go for a concourse finish as that adds time and money,but what ive seen of his work,I will not be dissapointed with the job he does!! I should get it back at end of Oct,so I will take my time putting it all back together ready for spring!! I will post some photo's as it is being done on my resto link. Just got a few more little bits to remove,and then its off!! And while its gone.I will refurbish the Amplus speclift I bought!! HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN Good luck. I will probably try 'surface-processing' its a dip + finish that guarantees to get all the rust, paint etc off and a coating that you can just prime and paint at £700. Heard anything about them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 I saw something in one of the monthlys about it!! looks to be a good idea if it would benefit a car.Its a bit like, dip,strip,seal for wooden doors and cabinets!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted September 16, 2007 Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 I used them for all my TR4 panels. The tub had previously been shotblasted. Superb results. I opted of the e-coat primer which is not cheap but very good. I think it is probably the only way to get paint into certain inaccessible parts of the body/panels. I will use them again. Here is their website link Surface Processing It's all very painless really. Turn up with a shell and loose panels covered in all sorts of horrible stuff. Leave it with them for a while. Go back and collect some painted steel, possibly full of holes but without rust and the rest of the stuff that was on it when you left it. Not cheap with the e-coat treatment but then if you look at the time saved, or the cost of someone to remove all paint and rust etc, it is money very well spent. It would seem to make sense to remove any panels you know will be replaced, such as floors and sills. Good luck David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 (edited) Hi all. Couple of things I am undecided on re my TR's repaint [1] Should I have the lower front and rear valences stonechipped,"I'm edging towards no!!", They will be body colour? [2] Should I have the sills stonechipped,and should I have them painted in satin black [same as boot panel] or body colour ??? Opinions invited!!! Dave Edited September 28, 2007 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 Hi all. Couple of things I am undecided on re my TR's repaint [1] Should I have the lower front and rear valences stonechipped,"I'm edging towards no!!", They will be body colour? [2] Should I have the sills stonechipped,and should I have them painted in satin black [same as boot panel] or body colour ??? Opinions invited!!! Dave Hi ya Dave, Exciting times eh. As you have invited opinions heres mine. Front and rear valance not stonechipped , Body colour. I find if you stonechipped it , it would look like its hiding rust spots, even though it wouldnt be. And sills body colour also (not black) no stonechipping for same reasons as above All the Best Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saffrontr Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 Hi Dave, I have to agree with Guy about not stone chipping the lower front & rear valences however I disagree with him about the sills. I would paint them satin black and use stone chip which would make it look like the original underseal that was applied to the sills by the factory to make the side of the six look shallower and less slab sided. I would also fit the sill chrome finishers as per original. However not everyone is into originality like me and I'm sure that whatever decision you make it won't be the wrong one. Cheers Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 (edited) Hi Derek, Guy. I am trying to keep it as close to original as possible,I have bought some excellent s/h and n.o.s items rather than repro stuff!! But as its only done low miles since 85,most parts are really very good!! I do want a vent and hinge assembly,and I may have to buy a repro if I cant get one PDQ!! Also need some early narrow sill finishers!! I dont want to fit a later grille. I had thought that the sills were black from the factory!!,and it makes sense to protect them,coz I dont really want to fit mud flaps! I have bought a really nice pair of leather seats! TR6 SEAT Was leather an option in 1970 ? The piping was red at some point!,so I think they are original,except the holes arent as big a diamond cut as the vinyl ones? As and when I can,I will post a photo or 2 of its progress. From leaving my garage to its return,I will add pics to my resto album as I put it all back together this winter. Dave Edited September 28, 2007 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 (edited) Dave, Tony Sheach or Walter Petchey for the vent flap and hinge. Let me know if you need contact details. I went through the dilemma re stone chip when doing my TR6 and my TR3a. You know I cannot now remember what I did with the 3a. My TR6 was done exactly as Derek suggests. It looked correct and was practical. Don't forget that cars are meant to be used! Good luck Regards David Edited September 28, 2007 by david ferry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Hi Pilkie Reading your story here you must be the bloke I chatted with at the Berkeley Castle show earlier this month (I had the Mallard TR6). Good to hear you're making progress - when it's all done you'll have to come and show it off at Brunel TRs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Hi Bill. Yep thats me!! I saw Mikes jade green TR7,nice!!,and chatted to the painter,he is quite busy with VW campers, and wont be able to do it this side of Xmas! But the chap I was after came good,or so I thought!! He was/is doing a TR7 rally car,but has had a delay for whatever reason? Family I think? Anyway,as its bare metal, its too wet to of taken it to him today anyway! So I will do a few bits and bobs like remove the propshaft for suspended towing, loosen all door,bonnet bolts,hinges. Whats another week or 2 after a year!! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Re the stone chipping issue I have found that if it is sprayed on and then 2 pack primed, then blocked off and reprimed it is possible to get a perfect smooth finish that when sprayed with colour is dead smooth and looks the same as if it hadnt been applied. that way you still have the protection and no one can tell that its there. Works for me at any rate. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) Re the stone chipping issue I have found that if it is sprayed on and then 2 pack primed, then blocked off and reprimed it is possible to get a perfect smooth finish that when sprayed with colour is dead smooth and looks the same as if it hadnt been applied. that way you still have the protection and no one can tell that its there. Works for me at any rate.Stuart. Hi Stuart. As you are a restorer I very much appreciate your input. But ??? When/if,an owner comes to sell the car on,and they say to the punter, "its been stone chipped"!!. How can they believe them. ??? If you cant see that it is there,how do you know it has been done,if it looks like it hasnt ??? If I was buying,I would want to see visible proof that its there! Its sort of like saying to a punter, "Theres no filler in this motor!!", coz!!, "Its very well hidden". I suppose the seller may well have the resto bill to show the punter. As for my car,making it invisible on the f & r lower valence sections,but visible on the sills may well be the way to go!! I know its a very fine line between what is original,and what is an acceptable change,upgrade!, when restoring a car!! Like ? Do I fit a stainless nut and bolt kit under the bonnet,wings etc!! or paint them as per the original spec?? Ive fully trimmed the boot in black carpet,coz it looks like it should of been done originally!! All personal preferences are liked and disliked by others!! But as long as the owner likes it thats really all that counts! Dave Edited September 29, 2007 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wyn Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Mine was stone chipped but faded in rather than having a visible straight join between the stone chipped area and that not stone chipped, you would hardly notice the stone chip unless you were looking for it. I'm really glad of that advice now as I have taken the bumpers off. Looks really nice I think. Originality went by the wayside a long time ago for me. I want a car I can really enjoy driving and as far as the fine details of retaining originality, not for me I'm afraid but I would of course respect other people's different opinion. Regards Wyn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 As I do cars mostly for customers and not just for sales I tend to go with how the customer requires them to be finished and if they want a show type car that is still usable regularly then the hidden stonechip is often the finish that they require and I always supply full photographic records of all the work carried out on every car. Personally I dont like to see stonechip on sills or front and rear panels as for our era of cars most of them (sidescreen/4/4a/5) didnt have it and in my experience its quite often there to hide scabby panels or poor repairs. It also looks awful when applied under bonnets or boot lids. Purely my opinion and I agree with you Dave its up to the owner what they have done. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 As I do cars mostly for customers and not just for sales I tend to go with how the customer requires them to be finished and if they want a show type car that is still usable regularly then the hidden stonechip is often the finish that they require and I always supply full photographic records of all the work carried out on every car. Personally I dont like to see stonechip on sills or front and rear panels as for our era of cars most of them (sidescreen/4/4a/5) didnt have it and in my experience its quite often there to hide scabby panels or poor repairs. It also looks awful when applied under bonnets or boot lids. Purely my opinion and I agree with you Dave and Wyn its up to the owner what they have done. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) Hi Pilkie, I hope that your paint experience is rather better than mine ..... I had three estimates and chose the lower of the three....but that was still more than yours.....the car left me for the body shop with an estimate of three months for the work......that was 6 years ago and I have only recently received the inner tub back...... I kept and restored the engine/gearbox and rolling chassis and completed that work 5 years ago......I am still waiting for the outer panels, doors, bonnet and boot.......the quoted cost has more than tripled in the meantime.......I am working nearly full time fitting out (as can be seen for my requests for help here on the forum!)..... It had better be ready for the Spring! john Edited September 29, 2007 by johnny250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) I saw Mikes jade green TR7,nice!!,and chatted to the painter,he is quite busy with VW campers, and wont be able to do it this side of Xmas! But the chap I was after came good,or so I thought!! He was/is doing a TR7 rally car,but has had a delay for whatever reason? Family I think? Anyway,as its bare metal, its too wet to of taken it to him today anyway! So I will do a few bits and bobs like remove the propshaft for suspended towing, loosen all door,bonnet bolts,hinges. Whats another week or 2 after a year!! UPDATE!!!! Spoke to the other guys who work with him occasionally,and they can do it for me,at the same price, next week!! There are 2 of them doing 11hr days,mon-sat,,they will work on it exclusively,and have put off 2 or 3 other jobs to fit it in,I will help where and when I can. And get photo's!! As it has very minimal and very minor bodywork repairs to do,it is all rub down and prep work then to paint. They have done this due to the other guy having problems at home,and as I was his only pending job.And they really love doing classics when they can!! It would take him a month by himself,with other little jobs coming in. Weather permitting it goes tomorrow,and with luck it will come back next sunday. Works out at about 120hrs at £10 per hour + materials!! Done all the little last jobs today,so Roll on Tomorrow!! Edited September 29, 2007 by PILKIE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PILKIE Posted September 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 ITS GONE!!!! Now that ive got a bit of space in the garage for a week,I can refurb/repaint those last few silver and black bits before it comes back for refitting!! I have just found out I can make little video clips with my digi camera!! I will experiment when I take a few snaps of its painting progress!! I am going to be like a little kid waiting for a big prezzy to arrive all week!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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