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Electronic Flasher Unit


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I've just attempted to fit a electronic flasher unit as my car tends to eat the electro/mechanical versions. I tried a RFL3 flasher unit which I think is the right one for the job and wired it as follows:

 

green and brown wire from switch [L] to 49a

double green from fuse box to 49

permanent earth to 31.

 

Result is the flasher unit works, but rapidly 'ticks' all the time - it does the same with a different flasher unit. Am I doing something wrong?

Edited by badshead
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Bill, I think you will have to use a 2 prong flasher unit. I tried the same with a 3 prong and it did not work. The reason might be that you have twice grounding, once via the flasher box and once via the lights. As far as I noticed the correct unit would be a Tridon EL12 or something comparable.

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I checked it.. I use a TRIDON electronic flasher. I has 3 connectors (2 horizontal and 1 vertical.) The vertical connector is not used. The lightgreen/brown and light green/slate wires are connected with the horizontal connectors. NO extra ground.

Hope this helps.

 

(PS I've a 72 TR6)

Edited by EricTR6
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I checked it.. I use a TRIDON electronic flasher. I has 3 connectors (2 horizontal and 1 vertical.) The vertical connector is not used. The lightgreen/brown and light green/slate wires are connected with the horizontal connectors. NO extra ground.

Hope this helps.

 

(PS I've a 72 TR6)

Thanks Eric/Jean - I'll try it without the earth.

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  • 2 months later...

Guys

 

Where can I get an electronic flasher unit from? Maplin? It looks a though it wants to be a Tridon but any particular part number?

 

(from my office in the middle of Brum' getting to a Factors is nigh on impossible, a mail order co would do me fine)

 

Thanks in advance

 

Regards

 

Tim

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David

 

WOOSH!!!!!!

 

That list has gone totally over my head. Not an electrical engineer.

 

The current electro mechanical seems to be struggling on the passengers side (drivers side is fine), I have replaced earths, soldered a separate earth onto the bulb holder for the rear main indicator, and replaced iffy looking connectors. Stationary the indicators work, but under load and at speed they struggle. So, in my naievity I have thought of going to an electronic to give that last bit of oomph (that is as technical as I get).

 

One query is that flashers are rated at 2*21w+5w. But my 6 has 2*21w, front & rear, + 2*5w repeaters, front wing and rear in the side refector, + the dash warning lamp. Is this not putting to much resistance into the flasher?

 

Anyway, back to basics. Which electronic unit works, and where can I order it from?.

 

Guy

 

is the one you quoted electronic or electro-mechanical.

 

Regards

 

Tim

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Tim,

 

I am not an electrical engineer but I would start by looking at EP35 or EP36.

 

However, if you fancy a bit of a walk at lunchtime, after a chat on the phone, try this firm. They may be able to help.

 

Car electrical services

 

However, I would suggest that you may have other issues causing your flashing problems. (Not trying to be funny but it is amusing when I look at this before posting!).

 

Perhaps CES can help with the real problem.

 

Good luck

 

David

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Guy

 

is the one you quoted electronic or electro-mechanical.

 

Regards

 

Tim

 

 

Tim and Badshead

 

Its mechanical i think top one on this page

 

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/sess/utn;jse...view.shopscript

 

 

Think they do electronic as well.

 

Seems you have a large choice of companys.

Regards

 

Guy

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  • 5 months later...
I've just attempted to fit a electronic flasher unit as my car tends to eat the electro/mechanical versions. I tried a RFL3 flasher unit which I think is the right one for the job and wired it as follows:

 

green and brown wire from switch [L] to 49a

double green from fuse box to 49

permanent earth to 31.

 

Result is the flasher unit works, but rapidly 'ticks' all the time - it does the same with a different flasher unit. Am I doing something wrong?

 

 

Bill, Did you resolve the "ticking" flasher unit?

 

I had a Tridon HD12 (20amp)fitted, however when the electric fan cuts in the indicators slow down. I replaced the Tridon with another electronic type with three prongs. Works a lot better, but now "ticks" sometimes!! I disconnected the earth wire, then it doesnt work at all. What did you end up doing?

The Tridon is in a clear case and looks to me like a mech type, its got a relay and what looks to be a capacitor, but no electronic components, just thinking perhaps its not electronic after all and thats why its slow.

 

Mark

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Bill, Did you resolve the "ticking" flasher unit?

 

I had a Tridon HD12 (20amp)fitted, however when the electric fan cuts in the indicators slow down. I replaced the Tridon with another electronic type with three prongs. Works a lot better, but now "ticks" sometimes!! I disconnected the earth wire, then it doesnt work at all. What did you end up doing?

The Tridon is in a clear case and looks to me like a mech type, its got a relay and what looks to be a capacitor, but no electronic components, just thinking perhaps its not electronic after all and thats why its slow.

 

Mark

 

 

Mark

 

I have to confess that I gave up in the end and reverted to the original electro-mechanical version. I tried various permutations of wiring - it worked but I couldn't get rid of the 'ticking' noise with either electronic unit I tried. Anyway I'm about to fit hazard warning lights so I might be tempted to try again with a comprehensive re-wire of the flasher circuit when the temperature in my garage rises above brass monkey level!

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Still on the case with this one.....

 

Regardless of the electronic unit I try, it will only work with the earth connected. Indicators work fine, but the electronic unit makes a rapid ticking noise when the indicators are not in use. There are two live wires connected to the flasher unit (as per the standard wiring diagram). The one from the fuse box makes sense, but can anybody explain why there is also one that originates from the wiper motor?

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  • 3 weeks later...
Still on the case with this one.....

 

Regardless of the electronic unit I try, it will only work with the earth connected. Indicators work fine, but the electronic unit makes a rapid ticking noise when the indicators are not in use. There are two live wires connected to the flasher unit (as per the standard wiring diagram). The one from the fuse box makes sense, but can anybody explain why there is also one that originates from the wiper motor?

 

 

Bill

 

I may have had a win with my ticking flasher unit. As I said before I had a Tridon electonic unit fitted which slowed down when the fan cut in, changed that to a electronic 3 prong, hence ticking noise and wont work on 2 prongs. Found a different make Japenese electronic 2 prong and BINGO no ticking and no slowing when fan cuts in. No name as such on unit though so I'm afraid not much help to you only to say try some different units.

 

Mark

 

ps forgot to say it did say on the unit "variable load" could that be the key?

Edited by marks
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  • 10 months later...

Having experienced (yet again) another flasher unit failure, I've had another go at fitting an electronic unit. However, I still can't sort the problem I've had from the outset - indicators work but constant ticking noise from the electronic unit! :( I've tried two different units (2x25W & 4x25w) including hooking up an independent power supply to the unit. I've even tried using a diode on the load side in case there was some leakage back to the unit via the switch/warning light - but makes no difference. I've also tried using a combined flasher/buzzer unit - indicators work, but instead of ticking noise the buzzer pulses!

 

If anybody has managed to fit an electronic unit without the ticking noise, I'd appreciate the manufacturer/part number.

Edited by badshead
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Having experienced (yet again) another flasher unit failure, I've had another go at fitting an electronic unit. However, I still can't sort the problem I've had from the outset - indicators work but constant ticking noise from the electronic unit! :( I've tried two different units (2x25W & 4x25w) including hooking up an independent power supply to the unit. I've even tried using a diode on the load side in case there was some leakage back to the unit via the switch/warning light - but makes no difference. I've also tried using a combined flasher/buzzer unit - indicators work, but instead of ticking noise the buzzer pulses!

 

If anybody has managed to fit an electronic unit without the ticking noise, I'd appreciate the manufacturer/part number.

 

Electromechanical flasher units use bimetallic strip that bends when it gets hot. If the unit flashes rapidly this is due typically to a dead bulb.

 

Most electronic flasher units flash the lamps by controlling a relay. The relay will click as it makes and again when it breaks. This may very well be the problem for yours. The speed of the flashing is generally fixed by the electronic timing circuit.

 

I have designed and I am about to build my own electronic flasher unit that also provides me with hazard warning functionality, (one extra switch). It also uses relays so may tick, but the flash rate is adjustable and is independent of the number of bulbs it is driving.

 

The circuit is relatively easy to build. If this is of interest, I'll send you the details. Just send me a PM.

 

TT

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Electromechanical flasher units use bimetallic strip that bends when it gets hot. If the unit flashes rapidly this is due typically to a dead bulb.

 

Most electronic flasher units flash the lamps by controlling a relay. The relay will click as it makes and again when it breaks. This may very well be the problem for yours. The speed of the flashing is generally fixed by the electronic timing circuit.

 

TT

 

Thanks Tony,

The electromechanical units work perfectly ok, but they don't last very long and always fail at the most inconvenient moment - I tend to get through at least x2 per year! However, all bulbs ok and flash at normal rate. The electronic flasher relay works and makes the usual clicking noise as it does so, BUT it continues to make a loud rapid clicking noise even when the indicators are off. Electronics aren't really my thing beyond schoolboy physics so your circuit diagram looks a bit daunting :blink: I've managed to install an electronic flasher relay on my Stag with no problem, so frustrated that I can't do the same on the TR6.

Edited by badshead
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If you fancy a trip to a breakers, try to find the flaher relay from a Vauxhall Omega, fitted one to my TR6, now have even and predictable flash rate.

 

It's a three wire device, power in, flash out and ground.

 

If you are lucky with your breaker, grab some other relays, great for headlights, cooling fan, horn etc.

 

The cooling fan from a three litre Omega is fairly easy to adapt to a 6 as well.

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Thanks Tony,

The electromechanical units work perfectly ok, but they don't last very long and always fail at the most inconvenient moment - I tend to get through at least x2 per year! However, all bulbs ok and flash at normal rate. The electronic flasher relay works and makes the usual clicking noise as it does so, BUT it continues to make a loud rapid clicking noise even when the indicators are off. Electronics aren't really my thing beyond schoolboy physics so your circuit diagram looks a bit daunting :blink: I've managed to install an electronic flasher relay on my Stag with no problem, so frustrated that I can't do the same on the TR6.

 

I think I know why the electronic unit ticks.

 

Electromechanical flashers don't do anything until the column switch is closed in either direction when it will then pass current through the bulbs. As it does so it heats up and disconnects etc.

 

If the electronic unit is connected in place of the standard flasher it has to permanently operate, because it doesn't rely on the current through the lamps for its operation, but you only see the flashing when the column switch is closed. However, if this flasher has a relay in it, the relay will be continually making and breaking the connection so it makes a clicking noise all the time. The only way to prevent the electronic units ticking is to buy one that does not use relays.

 

The circuit diagram I provided connects the flasher unit in a different part of the indicator circuit so it only operates when the column switch is closed. It can also drive the lamps without using a relay if preferred. (Silent operation). I designed it to provide hazard warning functionality then figured I might as well drive the flashers with it as well.

 

I certainly understand why this circuit might appear daunting, but if you need a flasher/hazard unit it does both, consequently it has lots of connections.

 

Whatever you decide, good luck.

 

TT

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Thanks Tony,

The electromechanical units work perfectly ok, but they don't last very long and always fail at the most inconvenient moment - I tend to get through at least x2 per year! However, all bulbs ok and flash at normal rate. The electronic flasher relay works and makes the usual clicking noise as it does so, BUT it continues to make a loud rapid clicking noise even when the indicators are off. Electronics aren't really my thing beyond schoolboy physics so your circuit diagram looks a bit daunting :blink: I've managed to install an electronic flasher relay on my Stag with no problem, so frustrated that I can't do the same on the TR6.

 

 

Hi,

 

I just re-read your response and I am really surprised that you go through 2 flashers a year. That seems very high. I doubt I have used more than 5 in the 40 year life of the car. Do you also blow fuses occasionally? If so, you may find that there is an intermittent short circuit in your wiring. This would certainly cook the flasher rapidly.

 

TT

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Hi,

 

I just re-read your response and I am really surprised that you go through 2 flashers a year. That seems very high. I doubt I have used more than 5 in the 40 year life of the car. Do you also blow fuses occasionally? If so, you may find that there is an intermittent short circuit in your wiring. This would certainly cook the flasher rapidly.

 

TT

 

Tony

 

The horn fuse blows occasionally, but that's a different circuit I think. I agree my flasher failure rate is very high suggesting that something else might be wrong, but I haven't got a clue what it might be. I think the next step is to replicate the indicator circuit on the bench using a couple of 21w bulbs wired in parallel to see if the electronic flasher stills ticks.

Edited by badshead
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